PVC vs. EMT for winter-cover frame

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Joe Myerson
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Location: s/v Creme Brulee, CD 25D, Hull #80, Squeteague Harbor, MA

PVC vs. EMT for winter-cover frame

Post by Joe Myerson »

It's definitely time to start thinking and planning for haulout here in New England.

An article in this month's SAIL magazine got me thinking about building a frame for my winter cover, either out of PVC pipes (as described in the SAIL piece), or using EMT (electrical metal tubing).

Any thoughts on which would be the better option?

NOTE: I had been dubious about PVC here in snow country, but the design shown in the magazine is very robust--and the author is a Great Lakes sailor.

--Joe
Former Commodore, CDSOA
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80

"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
Oswego John
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Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1

Winter Cover

Post by Oswego John »

Joe,

PVC and EMT will both do the job. EMT is stronger. PVC can be bent by hand. You should use an EMT bender to prevent kinking the metal tubing. Using EMT, you can use one size smaller than PVC for the same snow load strength.

Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
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Bob Ohler
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Photos and follow-up please.

Post by Bob Ohler »

Joe,

I'd love photos and a follow-up, both as your project progresses and when it is complete.

Bob O.
Bob Ohler
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CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
Jim Buck
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Location: 1976 Open Ty DS #49

winter cover

Post by Jim Buck »

I used PVC 1/2" x 10' sections bent over a 2x4 strongback that was elevated about 4' over the cockpit sole. The strongback was held up by vertical 2x4's fore and aft. Over the framework I placed a blue plastic tarp. I attached a flat 2x6 foot to the base of both vertical 2x4's and from both ends of the strongback I attached 1x4 braces parallel fore and aft. This provided stability to the rig and a framework for the tarp. We received a lot of snow last winter and the cover never failed. Of course, this was for a Ty daysailer but could readily be adapted to your larger CD. The 10' sections were long enough to make one full hoop on the Ty, but I fear you might need to glue sections together to get the right length. I thought about using EMT but liked the softer foot of the PVC. Just my $0.02.
Jim Buck
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tjr818
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Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949

PVC

Post by tjr818 »

Here in Saint Louis we can get up to a foot of dense wet snow in a big storm. I have a winter cover from the Canvas Store for my CD27 so I do not fabricate a cover for Sláinte, my CD27. However I do have a small backyard pond that I cover every year with a net. The fine mesh net catches snow as though it were a solid cover. I have built four different models of my tent so far. I now use 3/4" PVC which can easily span in a 10' arc. It is easy to use, easy to cut, easy on any surface it rubs against AND it doesn't rust. There are fittings galore to help manufacture any cover you can fashion. Elbows, tees, reducers, and any combination of these that you can imagine. I would whole heartily recommend PVC.
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
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Joe Myerson
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Location: s/v Creme Brulee, CD 25D, Hull #80, Squeteague Harbor, MA

Leaning toward PVC

Post by Joe Myerson »

Thanks Tim and Jim,

I'm starting to lean toward the PVC option, because I can cut the stuff with a simple handsaw, and because there are 45-degree and T fittings, which is what I need for the structure shown in SAIL magazine.

That particular frame looks like it would take a lot of work to build the first time, but that it would hold, take down easily and save me lots of work in subsequent years.

I'm still trying to decide if I should try to re-use last year's shrinkwrap instead--I saved it and the wood strapping that the contractor used.

--Joe
Former Commodore, CDSOA
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80

"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
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bhartley
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PVC Cutters

Post by bhartley »

Joe,

PVC pipe is cheap. Forget the saw and get the cutters. Best investment you will ever make. They have them at Lowe's and Home Depot in addition to other places.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... -202515847

I have made multiple cover frames using PVC and these are what you need -- along with the black zip (UV resistant) ties.

Bly
Oswego John
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Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1

PVC

Post by Oswego John »

Joe,

We use PVC to support the heat shrink on the OMF CD 85D :wink:

We buy large coils of irrigation PVC and cut it for custom sizes with no couplings used.

We use stanchion bases which are the exact size to insert the arched PVC ends into.

We use a standard tubing cutter to get straight cuts.

Good luck,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
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Chris Reinke
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Location: CD330 - Innisfail (Gaelic for "A Little Bit Of Heaven on Earth"), Onset, MA

Post by Chris Reinke »

Joe - We purchased a winter cover from Fairclough, along with the EMT frame system. The frame is very robust and utilizes cast aluminum connectors, but I am sure other EMT connectors would be equally as effective. We hauled our CD330 today, and was able to install the frame and cover in about an hour. I would suggest you look at Fairclough's website to see how they do it, and compliment them by copying :)
Ron M.
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Location: CD30c Harwich,Ma.

Post by Ron M. »

Joe, I made a pvc arch frame 10 yrs ago and will be using it again after haul out. No connectors, it bends easily and attaches to the stanchions. A few 1X3's help support the arches from snow load.
For the 1st 5 years I re-used the same shrink wrap. Since I've been using green poly tarp which seems to last 3 yrs.
Duct tape and nylon ties are a requirement.
CD 30c #42
S/V "Bluesails"
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Philip Tanner
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Joined: Jun 12th, '07, 06:50

PVC

Post by Philip Tanner »

I also construct a frame out of PVC on my CD 28. However, I always have a problem placing the tarps around the side stays. I have an upper and two lower stays on each side. Has anyone ever undone the two lowers and attach them somehow to the upper to make it easier to place the tarps around them? I would think the mast would still be adequately supported for the winter with just the upper side stays. If there's any reason why this shouldn't be done, please let me know.
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Jim Davis
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Edgewater, MD

Post by Jim Davis »

Phillip

How about undoing them one at a time and punching a hole for each one. I would leave all shrouds attached. You don't have to set them up for sailing, but to give support and stability.
Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
Philip Tanner
Posts: 21
Joined: Jun 12th, '07, 06:50

Post by Philip Tanner »

Sometimes a simple solution to a problem is right in front of your eyes but you just don't see it. I just never thought of that. It sounds like an easy way to do it and I will try it this fall. Thanks Jim. Phil
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Chris Reinke
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Location: CD330 - Innisfail (Gaelic for "A Little Bit Of Heaven on Earth"), Onset, MA

Post by Chris Reinke »

Philip - We used the same method Jim suggested with our old canvas/PVC frame system. We just cut a small hole in the cover and one by one passed the shroud through the cover and re-secured to the deck plates. One point, we found the holes grew as the cover flapped or got snow loads so for the second year we sewed a small piece of backing canvas at each hole.
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