Hello members. I need some advice regarding the rub rails for my CD 27. The rails are in beautiful shape with appropriate coats of Signature Finish. Looks great. However, my boat came without the brass metal protective strip, which most CD seem to have, leaving the rails vulnerable.
The boat is currently hauled at a boat yard with the intentions of having the metal installed. The quote is very high, almost prohibitive for my 1980 boat: $200/12' section+ plaining the rail to flatten the edge (remove the crown) for a good fit + a bunch of labor to countersink the holes, install etc. probably $2,000!
An alternative suggested by my yard is to install stainless "open back" metal strips ordered for about $60/12' and already has the holes drilled and it would fit the crown. My concern is appearance. A stainless rail piece on a Cape Dory? I have never seen stainless on a CD and I am afraid it would negatively alter the appearance. Has anyone done this to their boat? and if so, can you give me an idea how it turned out, maybe a picture? Would any concern about appearance fade when compared to leaving the rail without the protection?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
George
Oriental, NC
Cape Dory Rub Rail
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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George Hare
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Feb 10th, '06, 04:54
- Location: '85 Typhoon WE & '80 CD 27 Oriental, NC
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SurryMark
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Nov 18th, '08, 10:04
- Location: Formerly CD27Y, Tula. Now Luders Sea Sprite 34
- Contact:
why metal?
Well, Tula the 1978 27, doesn't have a metal face on the rub rail, and I don't think I'd want one. Wood is so much gentler if you rub against another boat, and some worn spots are a sign of a boat that's had a life. In my eyes, varnish over a few dips in the wood is no less elegant. In the catalog of beautiful boats, how many have metal rub rails? My memory may be failing me, but I don't recall many.
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George Hare
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Feb 10th, '06, 04:54
- Location: '85 Typhoon WE & '80 CD 27 Oriental, NC
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Wingaersheek II
- Posts: 30
- Joined: May 17th, '10, 23:58
- Location: Wingaersheek II
Cape Dory 27 #250
Port Washington, WI
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
There is no continuous rub strip on Raven but for $2000.00 I will come down and install one on your boat. If you are still considering this job, I would get another estimate.
I have installed a couple of short lengths of brass half oval in wear areas of the rub and toe rails. I think the need for metal protection on the rails should be dictated by the use of your boat. We are on a mooring all summer and in a floating dock for the winter. If I had a slip with a short dock and pilings I would certainly have some rail protection.
I have seen a CD-36 with stainless and it didn't look too bad. I think maybe the bigger the boat the less it would stand out. Brass would definitely look better. No rub strip works just fine if you are not dealing with a lot of rough docks and pilings, Steve.
I have installed a couple of short lengths of brass half oval in wear areas of the rub and toe rails. I think the need for metal protection on the rails should be dictated by the use of your boat. We are on a mooring all summer and in a floating dock for the winter. If I had a slip with a short dock and pilings I would certainly have some rail protection.
I have seen a CD-36 with stainless and it didn't look too bad. I think maybe the bigger the boat the less it would stand out. Brass would definitely look better. No rub strip works just fine if you are not dealing with a lot of rough docks and pilings, Steve.
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George Hare
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Feb 10th, '06, 04:54
- Location: '85 Typhoon WE & '80 CD 27 Oriental, NC
Bronze oval or half-round
There is bronze oval or half-round available, but it's scarce and you have to look hard for it. It's certainly the best thing for looks and durability, though, if you can find it.
Installation shouldn't be beyond anyone who's reasonably handy. It would be nice if you could rig up staging and a helper, though, so you didn't have to work off a ladder by yourself
Installation shouldn't be beyond anyone who's reasonably handy. It would be nice if you could rig up staging and a helper, though, so you didn't have to work off a ladder by yourself
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Maine Sail
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Feb 8th, '06, 18:30
- Location: Canadian Sailcraft 36T
That is a hell of a price. I've mentioned in past posts that I've found used 1/2 round at various marine consignment shops / boat yards at a great savings. It's good to cultivate a relationship with local yards.
My boat is moored and I wanted to protect the wood from wearing where the lines pass thru the chocks so I installed 3/8 stainless 1/2 round about 6' aft of the bowsprit either side on the rubrail. It has done the job for 5 years and doesn't look bad at all.
Had to replace sections of toe and rub rails that wore thin by previous owner's mooring lines.
My boat is moored and I wanted to protect the wood from wearing where the lines pass thru the chocks so I installed 3/8 stainless 1/2 round about 6' aft of the bowsprit either side on the rubrail. It has done the job for 5 years and doesn't look bad at all.
Had to replace sections of toe and rub rails that wore thin by previous owner's mooring lines.
CD 30c #42
S/V "Bluesails"
+ 41.69989
-70.027199
S/V "Bluesails"
+ 41.69989
-70.027199
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Andy Denmark
- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
The other side of the coin .....
George,
You might want to compare the cost of a rubrail repair with the cost of installing a rub strip.
Here's an idea. One of my only power tools that survived Irene is a good drill press (because it is up on a workbench). It's an easy matter to make a simple jig to support the brass strips for drilling and countersinking. If the undrilled strips are available as cheaply as indicated here, then you and I can certainly do this simple machine work. Brass is one of the easiest metals to work.
Planing the existing rub rail is not hard when the boat is out of the water. Sail a season before your next haulout and we'll manufacture the brass strips over the winter, to be installed on Blue Line's next haulout.
Think about it ........
You might want to compare the cost of a rubrail repair with the cost of installing a rub strip.
Here's an idea. One of my only power tools that survived Irene is a good drill press (because it is up on a workbench). It's an easy matter to make a simple jig to support the brass strips for drilling and countersinking. If the undrilled strips are available as cheaply as indicated here, then you and I can certainly do this simple machine work. Brass is one of the easiest metals to work.
Planing the existing rub rail is not hard when the boat is out of the water. Sail a season before your next haulout and we'll manufacture the brass strips over the winter, to be installed on Blue Line's next haulout.
Think about it ........
s/v Rhiannon
"In order to be old and wise, one first must have been young and stupid ...
"In order to be old and wise, one first must have been young and stupid ...
Here's a Dirty Little 'Shaded' Secret
There are a few boats at my marina, not ALL CD's, that have used stainless steel half-round and put Sikkens or some other teak treatment over said stainless, and it appears to give it a very nice Bronze/Copper patina.
And it's true. In my somewhate less than perfect application of toe-rail stain ministrations, I have been guilty of splashing Sikkens Light on the Stainless Steel rub strips applied parallel to the cleats, and it does come out rather Bronzed. Just don't know how well it would wear w/constant rubbing. But for rubrails that don't come into contact w/anything it may be just what you're looking for.
And it's true. In my somewhate less than perfect application of toe-rail stain ministrations, I have been guilty of splashing Sikkens Light on the Stainless Steel rub strips applied parallel to the cleats, and it does come out rather Bronzed. Just don't know how well it would wear w/constant rubbing. But for rubrails that don't come into contact w/anything it may be just what you're looking for.
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Bronze rub strip is not readily available or necessary. Brass will work very well in this situation and that is probably why bronze is not available. I believe 3/4" is probably wider than you need to go. There is a huge difference in price as the width increases. You would probably be fine with 1/2'. It would also be easier to create a flat surface for the narrower width.
The brass is very easy to work with. A hack saw and a file are about all you need in addition to the drill press. Make sure to check your hole spacing before you drill. You want to make sure none of the fasteners land on the screws that hold the rub rail in place.
You could buy a whole lot of brass and beer for a lot less than to grand. Waiting isn't a bad idea either, Steve.
The brass is very easy to work with. A hack saw and a file are about all you need in addition to the drill press. Make sure to check your hole spacing before you drill. You want to make sure none of the fasteners land on the screws that hold the rub rail in place.
You could buy a whole lot of brass and beer for a lot less than to grand. Waiting isn't a bad idea either, Steve.