New bilge pump hose - CD 25

randyk · Post by **randyk** » Jun 27th, '11, 20:29

Installed a new 28 GPM Whale Gusher Titan to replace the old 8 GPM. I now have a 1 1/2 inch discharge hose going to the old 1 inch gate valve. Short of installing a new gate valve, is it recommended to reduce the discharge hose to 1 inch. My thoughts are that if the pump is intaking at 28 GPM, reducing the discharge hose would reduce the outflow AND put undo pressure on both the pump and the discharge hode.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Jun 27th, '11, 21:19

Even if you are not going to change the through hull, you would be best to run the larger diameter hose and reduce it right before the through hull fitting. This would give you less resistance and you would be all set to change the through hull, for maximum capacity, at a later time.

That would be my strategy anyway, Steve.

Maine_Buzzard · Post by **Maine_Buzzard** » Jun 28th, '11, 07:02

Why not have it discharge above the waterline and get rid of the gate valve?

Carl Thunberg · Post by **Carl Thunberg** » Jun 28th, '11, 07:33

I have to agree with Maine Buzzard on this one. On my old CD25, the bilge pump discharged to a through-hull fitting inside the engine well, which is above the water line. There was no valve. Also, this is a bit of an editorial comment, but gate valves are very dangerous, and you should remove any gate valves at the first opportunity and replace them with proper seacocks. I have no idea why Cape Dory did this.

I'm going by memory here, but I'm pretty sure there are no more than three seacocks (gate valves) in a CD25. Two are for the cockpit drains and one is for the head intake. My CD25 had no overboard discharge for the head, and everything went into the holding tank. The sink drain is tied into the same seacock as the port side cockpit drain.

So, did the previous owner tie the bilge pump discharge into the cockpit drain seacock, or did they install another one somewhere in a place I didn't mention? Or maybe there was a gate valve at the through-hull in the engine well?? Don't ask me how you'd ever operate that valve, 'cuz you'd have to go in through the cockpit locker and wedge yourself under the cockpit sole to get at it.

Maine_Buzzard · Post by **Maine_Buzzard** » Jun 28th, '11, 15:25

Why not have it discharge above the waterline and get rid of the gate valve?

randyk · Post by **randyk** » Jun 28th, '11, 17:53

THANKS FOR THE INPUT FROM EVERYONE. QUEST IS LOCATED ABOUT 310 MILES AWAY IN PORT ST JOE, FLA WHERE SHE IS IN A COVERED SHED WHILE BEING RESTORED. DON'T GET UP AS OFTEN AS I'D LIKE - WILL EVENTUALLY GET HER OVER TO SPACE COAST AREA OR SANFORD ON THE ST JOHNS. THE IDEA TO RE-ROUTE THE DISCHARGE HOSE TO THE MOTOR WELL IS EXCELLANT. THANK YOU!!! THAT WILL BE NEXT ON MY LIST. AGAIN, THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT INPUT. ALSO, I NEVER KNEW THAT THE SINK DRAIN FED INTO ONE OF THE COCKPIT DRAINS-AGAIN -THANKS

riveredge · Post by **riveredge** » Jun 28th, '11, 21:58

My sink drain on my 1980 CD25 has a dedicated through hull next to the port side cockpit drain. I'm planning to close it off and drain my sink into a jug I empty over the side as needed. That's all there is for most of these boats as far as I know since porta pottis are more common than head/holding tank installations. I just installed a new Whale Gusher Titan myself. My boat had never had one. As I pumped out the bilge I wondered if the water there could really be 30 years old. Fine brew.The discharge hose for my new pump rests comfortably beneath the port side cabin settee until I hang it out an opening port when pumping out the bilge is needed. Why put another hole in my boat, I reasoned.

randyk · Post by **randyk** » Jun 29th, '11, 08:52

I GUESS ANOTHER OPTION IS TO JUST RUN THE DISCHARGE HOSE OVER THE TOP ON THE STRBD SEAT LOCKER AND INTO THE COCKPIT (EMPTYING THRU THE COCKPIT SCUPPERS)

Jim Davis · Post by **Jim Davis** » Jun 29th, '11, 09:05

Just put a plastic through hull in the engine space and lead the pump discharge there. Put it on the vertical portion just below the fuel tank shelf. No valve, it is out of sight, drains overboard and you don't have to open any locker to do it.

Also I would replace the gate valves with proper sea cocks.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Jun 29th, '11, 09:15

I just don't get the aversion to additional holes in a boat.

If there was any possible way that water could enter a hull and there are a multitude that easily come to mind, let alone the ones you could never imagine, I would want a working pump in place and ready to go.

I have a diaphragm pump mounted on a board with threads for the pump out and a quick disconnect. This can be used for pumping the holding tank while well off shore. Screw it in, throw the discharge hose over the side and pump away just as you are talking about with the bilge.

The big difference is that this is rarely ever used and never in an emergency situation. It works fine for this purpose on a rare occasion. If I were doing this regularly, there would be a fixed mount for the pump and a dedicated through hull with an adequate hose and seacock.

Drilling holes in the boat is not such a big deal. If you do it right there is very little risk and it would be more than compensated for by a easy to use and effective, bilge pump, Steve.

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New bilge pump hose - CD 25

New bilge pump hose - CD 25

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