thru hull problem... help pls

Discussions about Cape Dory, Intrepid and Robinhood sailboats and how we use them. Got questions? Have answers? Provide them here.

Moderator: Jim Walsh

Post Reply
ceilidh
Posts: 37
Joined: Apr 7th, '08, 11:54
Location: '80 Typhoon weekender; Vail, Colo

thru hull problem... help pls

Post by ceilidh »

After going through all items listed from the search archives, decided I needed some collective thoughts. Replacing thru hulls on my '80 Typhoon; moved up to 1" bronze with mushroom top. Port side top to thru hull fits "pretty flush" to the hull, a small gap on one side.... stb side, however, is a different matter. When thru hull pushed into the hole (lock nut inside is not tightened) there is a 1/8 - 1/4" gap between top and hull approx 40% of the circumference. I removed the old bottom paint from the "high" side and am now down to gelcoat. Do I need to continue to grind high side until thru hull fits flush or can I let xs bedding material (sikaflex) flow into space as I tighten nut from inside. If I can post a pic, I'll try... any/all comments or suggestions are welcome... thks Hank
User avatar
Duncan
Posts: 600
Joined: Apr 17th, '08, 17:43
Location: CD 27, CD 10
Montreal, QC

Re: thru hull problem... help pls

Post by Duncan »

ceilidh wrote:After going through all items listed from the search archives, decided I needed some collective thoughts. Replacing thru hulls on my '80 Typhoon; moved up to 1" bronze with mushroom top. Port side top to thru hull fits "pretty flush" to the hull, a small gap on one side.... stb side, however, is a different matter. When thru hull pushed into the hole (lock nut inside is not tightened) there is a 1/8 - 1/4" gap between top and hull approx 40% of the circumference. I removed the old bottom paint from the "high" side and am now down to gelcoat. Do I need to continue to grind high side until thru hull fits flush or can I let xs bedding material (sikaflex) flow into space as I tighten nut from inside. If I can post a pic, I'll try... any/all comments or suggestions are welcome... thks Hank
How about mixing up a little fairing compound (epoxy + filler) to even out the low side?

I don't think you want to rely on the Sikaflex, because it's rubbery, so you won't get a solid joint.

You mention a lock nut, but nowadays the recommended practice is to use something with a flange (either a flanged adapter or a flanged seacock). That way, you get a much more solid installation.

[img]http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... 6746-1.jpg[/img]

LINK
Image
ceilidh
Posts: 37
Joined: Apr 7th, '08, 11:54
Location: '80 Typhoon weekender; Vail, Colo

Post by ceilidh »

Thks Duncan; I have the epoxy and filler out in the shop... will get out tomorrow to see if I can "build" a bit of a wedge to accommodate the gap. I have colloid filler, that should work ok.... hank
Post Reply