CD36 waterline question

[John Danicic]

Troy:

I measured the waterline's of our "fleet" of 3 CD 36's this past weekend.

Because of the tarps/shrink-wrap, it was hard to ascertain exactly where the cabin house ended but since we all leave the stick in for the winter, I used that as my common guide to measure. I did not measure up from the keel to the paint line because I didn't have a level to get an accurate measurement. When the tarps come off when, (if) it warms up, I will measure from the end of the cabin house.

Here is what I came up with:

The bow measurement was taken from the bottom of the bob stay fitting to the paint line and the stern measurement is from the bottom of the flat, vertical end to paint line along the crease.

Bow
At mast-Port
At Mast-Starboard
Stern

Mariah= Bow 9" Port 33 1/2" Star 33 3/8" Stern 24"

Amagi= Bow 12" Port 33 1/2" Star 33 1/2" Stern 20.1/2"

Per Olav= Bow 13.3/4" Port 31.3/4" Star 31 7/8" Stern 23

Per Olav has a boot strip that is 2 inch wide above a 3/4 inch gap above the bottom paint.

From the fouling line on Amagi, I could determine that the true water line was a good 3 to 4 inches below the bottom paint line. I could not say for certain on Mariah or Per Olav where it was as their hulls were cleaner. (No offense Randy)

I would say with out any precision, that Mariah's true water line is a similar 3 or four inches or so below the bottom paint line. Now, if I am not mistaken, a boat sits lower in fresh water then sea water. Not sure by how much but it should be taken in consideration.

Hope this helps.

Splash in June 2nd!

[mahalocd36]

Finally boat finished and in the water.
Pictures of new waterline:

http://www.sailmahalo.com/picture_colle ... ahalo2011/

Hull + deck awlgripped, all hardware removed and rebedded afterwards, teak cetol'd.

[Troy Scott]

Thanks John for the info. This will help me decide how to proceed.

Madison surprised me today by buying a neat lazar tool. It sets up on a tripod. You level it and turn it on. It projects a perfectly level red line. Now all I have to do is level the boat on her trolley, project the lines onto the sides of the boat, and scribe them. The only real problem now is how much to raise the waterline. I'll probably go with about 3 inches higher than the original..., or 63 inches above the keel bottom. Do you all concur? Using the same device, I can create the space between the bottom and boot; the width will automatically vary. I could do the same with the top of the boot, but I believe the top of the boot should have some "swoop" to it. I may start with a level live for that and then "doctor it" a little. The cove stripe (OK Accent Stripe.... I know we have no "Cove") will be more difficult, but I certainly won't do it the way it was, just parallel to the sheer. That doesn't work right.

If I'm successful, I will hopefully end up with something approaching the absolutely GORGEOUS cosmetically renewed MAHALO.

Mahalo, I envy your staysail traveller setup. My 36 apparently never had such a setup. The sheet tails near one end of the traveller and the block is at the other. I suppose the travelling block just finds it's own spot dependng on sheet tension, etc.. I'd prefer a system similar to yours, but I suppose now I'll have to remove my recently installed sheet tailing eye and the block. Not TOO big a deal since I've not yet painted. Now, did you guys consider running the staysail traveller sheets aft? It seems you would need to to get the same functionality that the new mainsail traveller provides.

Mahalo, I see three lines run through the blocks near the port forward corner of the main cabin hatch. Obviously these are main sheet and staysail sheet. What is the third line for?

[David van den Burgh]

Mahalo, I see three lines run through the blocks near the port forward corner of the main cabin hatch. Obviously these are main sheet and staysail sheet. What is the third line for?

Main halyard?

[mahalocd36]

Madison surprised me today by buying a neat lazar tool. It sets up on a tripod. You level it and turn it on. It projects a perfectly level red line. Now all I have to do is level the boat on her trolley, project the lines onto the sides of the boat, and scribe them.

That's how our waterline was raised and new bootstripe was done.

Mahalo, I envy your staysail traveller setup. My 36 apparently never had such a setup.

that is new, changed. Our old sheet sort of formed a triangle and worked as you said. We are trying this new setup and will let you know how it goes.

Now, did you guys consider running the staysail traveller sheets aft?

yeah, we did but decided to try it this way, there's not a great way to route them, and we don't adjust all that often, so we'll try just going forward to do it like the old one. I think we'd be able to do it later if we find we need it.

Mahalo, I see three lines run through the blocks near the port forward corner of the main cabin hatch. Obviously these are main sheet and staysail sheet. What is the third line for?

Main halyard.

[Troy Scott]

Thanks for all the great info! This is valuable to me!

[Troy Scott]

Nemo, looking at your photos and at my own boat, it seems the best route may be through a series of fairleads just outboard of the cabintop handrails, leading to either horn cleats or cam cleats near the aft upper corners of the cabin top. If routed well, none of these would cross non-skid areas, so hopefully wouldn't create a tripping hazard. Thoughts? So, I guess that would mean lines led aft are: main sheet, staysail sheet, mainsail traveller control line port, mainsail traveller control line starboard, staysail traveller control line port, staysail traveller control line starboard, and in your case, main halyard. Wow. That's seven, right? That's a long row of cam cleats, but probably worth it.
Then we might add such items as: flasher tack tension control line, etc.. It quickly gets busy. Another reason to avoid running all those reefing lines aft.... More thoughts?

[bottomscraper]

Our mainsail traveller lines use cam cleats attached to the traveller
like the staysail traveller. They line up with the zippers for the
center section of the dodger. They can be reached from the
cockpit but don't really add any clutter. On the cabin top roof
port side we have two self tailing winches and a double rope clutch.
The main halyard and sheet share a winch using the rope clutch.
The other winch is used for the staysail sheet. On the starboard
cabin top is a single winch which is used for the staysail outhaul,
we have both headsails on furlers. Currently we don't plan to run
the staysail traveller lines back to the cockpit. We can do that in
the future should change our minds.

[MFC]

Madison surprised me today by buying a neat lazar tool. It sets up on a tripod. You level it and turn it on. It projects a perfectly level red line. Now all I have to do is level the boat on her trolley, project the lines onto the sides of the boat, and scribe them.

That's how our waterline was raised and new bootstripe was done.

Hi -
Hope I am not hijacking the thead here -- but I have a quick question about "leveling" the boat. I understand the value of the lazer level to mark the waterline after you have the boat level; but what do you use as a reference point to know the boat is "level"? The cabin sole? The bottom of the keel? Thanks.
Matt

[bottomscraper]

Hope I am not hijacking the thead here -- but I have a quick question about "leveling" the boat. I understand the value of the lazer level to mark the waterline after you have the boat level; but what do you use as a reference point to know the boat is "level"? The cabin sole? The bottom of the keel? Thanks.
Matt

This thread is a bit random anyway!

The old water line and scum marks were used to level the boat
before any sanding began. The laser was used to locate the new
boot stripe on the already level boat. The bottom of the keel is
probably a decent reference if you don't have anything else.

[Troy Scott]

What is the advantage?

[bottomscraper]

What is the advantage?

Most of the advantage is dropping the sail rather than raising.
We have a "Tides Marine Sailtrack" system. The sail drops very
quickly when pointed into the wind, just release the rope clutch
in the cockpit. Raising the sail I usually go to the mast anyway
since it is faster. The boat came with the halyard run aft. We
added the sail track back a few years ago.

http://www.tidesmarine.com/sail-track.shtml

[Troy Scott]

Rich,

OK, I see now. Makes perfect sense. The Tides Marine track is just ONE of the many things I want for my CD36, and I want them all RIGHT NOW. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to keep it simpler, as I've already blown the budget!

[Troy Scott]

My boat is almost level in her cradle, based on measurements of the sole, cabinet tops, and bulkheads. These measurements are much more consistent that the original lines scored in the gelcoat. I plan to do a little "tweaking" with jacks, etc., before I strike the lines. If she doesn't end up floating on her lines the majority of the time, I can always move a battery or something. I'd really rather NOT use trim ballast if I can trim by moving something useful. After leveling, I'm just going to measure up from the bottom of the keel, which seems pretty straightforward to me. The only variation from level lines I'm considering is a little "swoop" to the top only of the boot. Thoughts?