Hatch replacement - CD 27

RMeigel · Post by **RMeigel** » Oct 12th, '10, 17:26

Hi folks - I've searched under hatch replacement but can't find where another CD 27 owner has actually replaced the entire Bomar forward hatch. Is there one out there? Please let us know what replacement hatch you found.

Robin Meigel
s/v Pacem
1979 CD 27

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Oct 12th, '10, 19:23

RMeigel wrote:Hi folks - I've searched under hatch replacement but can't find where another CD 27 owner has actually replaced the entire Bomar forward hatch. Is there one out there? Please let us know what replacement hatch you found.

As far as I know, it's an Atkins and Hoyle, so you can get parts, repair or replacement at http://www.atkinshoyle.com/

Ed Norton · Post by **Ed Norton** » Oct 13th, '10, 11:35

How bad is the hatch? I sent mine out to Select Plastics in Norwalk CT they installed a new lens and gasket/seal for me has worked fine.

Cathy Monaghan · Post by **Cathy Monaghan** » Oct 13th, '10, 14:05

Bomar makes great hatches, probably the best, so I don't know why you'd want to replace it when you can get replacement parts for it. Bomar is a division of Pompanette, Inc. Here's the link to their web site: http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/
We also link to them from our web site (Where to Look) here:
http://www.capedory.org/cdsoalook.html#PartsSupplies
And marine stores like Defender carry Bomar replacement parts. The Bomar hatches on most Cape Dorys are the "100 Series Cast hatches".

If you're considering a new one from any manufacturer, make sure you purchase a hatch that does NOT have dogs which go through the lexan. They always leak or will develop a leak in short order. The Bomar hatches on our boats have the dogs attached to the frame, so they will never leak. If your hatch is leaking, it is most likely caused by dried up bedding compound between the hatch frame and the boat's fiberglass roof. It just needs to be rebed. If it's leaking at the gasket, you can replace the gasket.

For what it's worth, I removed the main hatch on our CD32 a few years ago. (It needed to be rebed.) I removed the lexan and cleaned it up real well with Maguire's cleaner and polish. I repainted the hatch. Reinstalled the lexan and installed a new gasket. I purchased everything I needed from Bomar. Anyway, it hasn't leaked since.

Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Warren S · Post by **Warren S** » Apr 26th, '11, 10:55

Hi Cathy,

How was it removing the hatch? Did you need to use a de-bonding agent against 3M 5200?

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Apr 26th, '11, 11:09

If you have ever priced the bomar hatches used by CD you will see why almost no one has replaced them. They are likely the most expensive hatch on the market. Considering the frame is near indestructible, I cannot imagine a reason to go the replace route rather then repair.

Stan W. · Post by **Stan W.** » Apr 26th, '11, 13:08

Ditto. Those hatches now cost over $1,200 new. As long as the frame casting isn't broken, you'd be crazy to throw one away.

If it never has been removed before, the frame is bedded with silicon caulk and is not too hard to remove. One old trick is to pry up just enough of the frame to slip a thinnish guitar string through the crack and then use the guitar string to "saw" through the caulk.

Warren S · Post by **Warren S** » Apr 26th, '11, 13:15

Thanks for the tip Stan - though I hope a banjo string will do!

S/V Necessity · Post by **S/V Necessity** » Apr 27th, '11, 00:41

My hatches showed no evidence of having been previously removed and they were glued down with either 3M 5200, or something similarly fierce. I wish it had been silicone...

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Apr 27th, '11, 08:01

I removed, sandblasted, acid washed, primed and painted mine 5 years ago. They came off with out much trouble with a sharp 1-1/2" putty knife.They are fairly rugged, cast aluminum and parts can easily be had as mentioned above. I did not use any screws replacing the lenses, It was recommended by manufacturer the sealant,'ultra-glaze' would do the job without mechanical fasteners, so far so good.
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Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Apr 27th, '11, 08:01

If the hatch is so well bedded why must the frame come out?

I believe some people have had their hatches powder coated and for that treatment it would definitely need to be removed. Aside from that or if it were leaking around the frame there shouldn't be a need to remove it if you are not going to replace it.

This thread could be renamed hatch refurbishing or replacement.

I should paint my frame but glass polish did wonders on the plastic and there are no leaks.

Those hatches are a fine piece of work, Steve.

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Hatch replacement - CD 27

Hatch replacement - CD 27

Re: Hatch replacement - CD 27

Front Hatch

Bomar hatch removal

Nice trick!

Hatch bedding agent.