I just finished repainting my non skid
Moderator: Jim Walsh
I just finished repainting my non skid
The last time I painted the non skid I mixed sand with the paint and had reasonable success. This time I painted a small section then sprinkled with sand from a salt shaker then rolled over the sand with the wet roller and continued on to the next section.
One side of the fore deck looks real good but the other reflects light in a way that it looks like a strange shadow on the paint and when I move the shadow goes away.
I believe this has something to do with the way I applied the sand but I don't know.
For now I'm going to live with it because I don't know what I would do differently if I redid it, except maybe cross my fingers!
Any ideas?
One side of the fore deck looks real good but the other reflects light in a way that it looks like a strange shadow on the paint and when I move the shadow goes away.
I believe this has something to do with the way I applied the sand but I don't know.
For now I'm going to live with it because I don't know what I would do differently if I redid it, except maybe cross my fingers!
Any ideas?
- John Vigor
- Posts: 608
- Joined: Aug 27th, '06, 15:58
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Sand for superior non-skid
Gary, I used sand extensively to make non-skid surfaces on a boat I once owned. I sprinkled the sand (#30 grit, if I remember right) on wet paint applied by brush until the paint was completely covered to a depth of about a quarter inch.
Then I let the paint dry thoroughly before brushing off the remaining sand with a soft brush. Finally, I painted over the dried sand. It looked terrific, lasted well, and could easily be touched up at any time.
I used ordinary oil paint for some applications, and twin-pack polyurethane for others, including hard-wear areas like cockpit floors. Both were very successful.
If you use a light-colored paint you might need two coats brushed on top of the dried sand, and you can also apply a second coat on top of any sand that feels too abrasive.
You have to be careful to watch that the paint doesn't dry too quickly before you sprinkle the sand on. It needs to land on wet paint and be firmly stuck as the paint dries, otherwise bald patches might appear when it comes time to brush off the remaining dry sand.
This method of painting first and sprinkling dry sand completely over all the paint while it's still wet seems to work much better than applying paint with grit already mixed in. It gives a denser, neater, more coherent finish.
John V.
Then I let the paint dry thoroughly before brushing off the remaining sand with a soft brush. Finally, I painted over the dried sand. It looked terrific, lasted well, and could easily be touched up at any time.
I used ordinary oil paint for some applications, and twin-pack polyurethane for others, including hard-wear areas like cockpit floors. Both were very successful.
If you use a light-colored paint you might need two coats brushed on top of the dried sand, and you can also apply a second coat on top of any sand that feels too abrasive.
You have to be careful to watch that the paint doesn't dry too quickly before you sprinkle the sand on. It needs to land on wet paint and be firmly stuck as the paint dries, otherwise bald patches might appear when it comes time to brush off the remaining dry sand.
This method of painting first and sprinkling dry sand completely over all the paint while it's still wet seems to work much better than applying paint with grit already mixed in. It gives a denser, neater, more coherent finish.
John V.
Sanding between coats?
Thanks for the reply John.
I'm using Interlux Brightsides which requires sanding between coats.
Did you sand between coats? I was thinking sanding between coats would remove most of the non skid sand that was just applied.
Gary
I'm using Interlux Brightsides which requires sanding between coats.
Did you sand between coats? I was thinking sanding between coats would remove most of the non skid sand that was just applied.
Gary
- John Vigor
- Posts: 608
- Joined: Aug 27th, '06, 15:58
- Contact:
Between coats
Gary, no, you can't sand between coats. It's not necessary, but it might be better if you can recoat within 24 hours. That would ensure an improved chemical bond.
The painted sand offers plenty of grip for a mechanical bond for subsequent coats and I've never had any problem that way.
Be careful to pull your masking tape before the paint has dried hard. I found an hour or two was enough time.
Brightsides is a good choice. The reason they tell you to sand between coats is not only to give a better "tooth" for subsequent coats but also to produce a smoother, shinier finish that will enhance Interlux's reputation and help them sell more paint.
It's not neccessary if you're painting over sand non-skid.
Cheers,
John V.
The painted sand offers plenty of grip for a mechanical bond for subsequent coats and I've never had any problem that way.
Be careful to pull your masking tape before the paint has dried hard. I found an hour or two was enough time.
Brightsides is a good choice. The reason they tell you to sand between coats is not only to give a better "tooth" for subsequent coats but also to produce a smoother, shinier finish that will enhance Interlux's reputation and help them sell more paint.
It's not neccessary if you're painting over sand non-skid.
Cheers,
John V.
Resolution
I redid the fore deck with the same results, and that was when viewed in bright sun light the deck had undesired high lights.
After about a month of normal wear these highlights started to disappear.
Today was a bright sunny day here in SoCal and the highlights are gone and the fore deck looks great.
I'm calling it a success!
Gary
After about a month of normal wear these highlights started to disappear.
Today was a bright sunny day here in SoCal and the highlights are gone and the fore deck looks great.
I'm calling it a success!
Gary
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- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sep 15th, '10, 22:22
- Location: CD 25 #793 1981 "Omega"
Keyport, NJ
Sand?
Sand on the deck? Pretty low tech. Try "Interdeck " It's no pain in the neck. No disrespect, but sand paint is a generation out of date.
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- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Sand On The Deck
I've used both sand and commercial grit. They both do the job. Seven of one and a half a dozen of the other. Take your pick.
When I do buy grit, I buy it at Ace Home Supply at half the price that Boaters World charges.
If I use sand, I run it through a piece of screen or a sifter to get the junk and pebbles out of it and have the same size grit.
Here is the last grit I purchased :
Slip sliding away,
O J
When I do buy grit, I buy it at Ace Home Supply at half the price that Boaters World charges.
If I use sand, I run it through a piece of screen or a sifter to get the junk and pebbles out of it and have the same size grit.
Here is the last grit I purchased :
Slip sliding away,
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
Gary, go look at my cd 22 in the eye candy forum 6/10
I used interdeck and I am very pleased with it...I mixed together the beige and white and used the result....it goes on easy and dries nice...craig
Great looking CD22, Craig
I used Z Spar M612 Non Skid Compound.
I'm very pleased with my results after the gloss faded a bit,
Gary
I'm very pleased with my results after the gloss faded a bit,
Gary
- drysuit2
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Apr 22nd, '05, 18:52
- Location: Segue, 1985 Cape Dory 26 Hull # 15 Port Washington NY
- Contact:
Re: Sand?
And so is my boat. Isn't that kinda' the whole point of owning a Cape Dory?joelcunningham wrote:Sand on the deck? Pretty low tech. Try "Interdeck " It's no pain in the neck. No disrespect, but sand paint is a generation out of date.
Sand
A drawback to using sand for non-skid is that it doesn't absorb the paint, it gets coated. After time and wear it will show through. Polymeric beads, such as used in Inter-deck soak up paint and wear more evenly.
I used a mixture of grits of Awlgrip texture additive with very good results and it has held up well for 6 years now. Salt shaker method works for me.
________
SUSANALADY CAM
I used a mixture of grits of Awlgrip texture additive with very good results and it has held up well for 6 years now. Salt shaker method works for me.
________
SUSANALADY CAM
Last edited by Ron M. on Aug 14th, '11, 08:08, edited 1 time in total.
I have seen several boats that have been done with KiwiGrip and have to say it has to be one of the best nonskid products out there, really terrific stuff.
Myself I have just used Interdeck and am pleased with it. But downside is its a 1 part paint, so durability isnt there (expect to redo it every few years). Using sand/beads method allows you to use a higher quality 2 part paint and get more years of service out of it.
Myself I have just used Interdeck and am pleased with it. But downside is its a 1 part paint, so durability isnt there (expect to redo it every few years). Using sand/beads method allows you to use a higher quality 2 part paint and get more years of service out of it.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
- drysuit2
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Apr 22nd, '05, 18:52
- Location: Segue, 1985 Cape Dory 26 Hull # 15 Port Washington NY
- Contact:
It's all tradeoffs and personal preferences. I used to work with a guy who did nonskid by mixing, or shaking salt or sugar grains with clear or tinted epoxy. He then wet the deck to melt the salt or sugar, the voids produced non skid. Sometimes the sugar method would attract an army of ants.
I usually use a product called redeck actually designed for windsurfer decks. It comes with a nice tiny roller and pan.
Then I paint over it with a matching color deck paint.
I use it because I have been working with the stuff for years. There may be a "better" way. But for me the best way is the way you have consistent experience with. It usually produces the best results, since there is no learning curve.
I am however interested by these new non skids with rubber.
Has anybody used one of those with good results? I'd like to try it in my cockpit where I sit and kneel a lot.
I usually use a product called redeck actually designed for windsurfer decks. It comes with a nice tiny roller and pan.
Then I paint over it with a matching color deck paint.
I use it because I have been working with the stuff for years. There may be a "better" way. But for me the best way is the way you have consistent experience with. It usually produces the best results, since there is no learning curve.
I am however interested by these new non skids with rubber.
Has anybody used one of those with good results? I'd like to try it in my cockpit where I sit and kneel a lot.