Rust in chain locker

Dixon Hemphill · Post by **Dixon Hemphill** » Apr 8th, '11, 13:49

Has anyone experienced finding rust in his chain locker? On my CD28 the rust is on the steel plate located under the bowsprit. In order to repair this condition my boatyard repairman tells me he must first chip away the rust to see how much damage exists. If over 20% of the plate is gone a major repair is required involving chipping, installing a second plate, fiberglassing and painting. But if less than 20% chipping, fiberglassing and painting are the basic requirements.

I anxiously await some helpful comments from you savvy sailors.

Dixon Hemphill

Steve Kuhar · Post by **Steve Kuhar** » Apr 8th, '11, 19:54

I too have often been accused of having a little rust in my chain locker, and my wife claims that my plate is way too far gone for a little bit of chipping and painting to do any good.

Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.

Steve Kuhar

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Apr 8th, '11, 20:45

The mild steel plate in the bow rusting is a common CD problem, I have been fortunate so far to not run into it myself, but you will find a lot of info about it searching the forum. This is a major issue that you need to take seriously, and not an easy one.

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Apr 9th, '11, 09:49

I recall seeing a description of how Fred Bickum removed and reinstalled the steel bow plate on his CD28, but I can't find it on his S/V Fenix site anymore. All I can see now is a verbal reference to reinstalling, but I think I saw photos of the plate before, and some description of the removal process.

You might want to PM/Email him, or perhaps Fred will notice that I'm fingering him on this post

JimMc · Post by **JimMc** » Apr 9th, '11, 12:33

There are some pictures and an explanation on his site if you go to this link and then click on "General Pics" on the left hand column...

http://www.sbastro.com/FeNIX/Projects/P ... riorFS.htm

Jim.
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Rebinva · Post by **Rebinva** » Apr 9th, '11, 13:09

was pretty rusted. I scraped off the hunks and painted it with a rust converter that had been suggested by the surveyor (can't remember the brand). I am still somewhat concerned, however, and have been considering reinforcing it with a piece of marine plywood. The bolts are long enough for maybe a 3/4 inch piece and some heavy washers. (That would suit my skill level) I suspect that there is some reason this is NOT a good idea, however, and would appreciate any thoughts.

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Apr 9th, '11, 13:57

Rebinva wrote:was pretty rusted. I scraped off the hunks and painted it with a rust converter that had been suggested by the surveyor (can't remember the brand). I am still somewhat concerned, however, and have been considering reinforcing it with a piece of marine plywood. The bolts are long enough for maybe a 3/4 inch piece and some heavy washers. (That would suit my skill level) I suspect that there is some reason this is NOT a good idea, however, and would appreciate any thoughts.

Its a damp area with the anchor rode and all, plus rain getting in thruogh the hawse pipe, which is why the plate is prone to rust. Even marine grade ply I think would rot faster then one would like in this spot. I would probably replace using aluminium if it was my boat. Though I guess if just reinforcing rather then replacing and you want easy to work with, perhaps starboard?

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Apr 9th, '11, 15:10

I believe the later boats have aluminum backing plates. This must have been something they discovered as a problem as time went on, Steve.

Bryce Wentworth · Post by **Bryce Wentworth** » Apr 10th, '11, 17:41

I went through this issue a few years ago. On my boat the backing plate was connected to some re-bar that was glassed in to the bow of the boat. The backing plate can be removed fairly easily from the the bottom of the deck, but the re-bar requires removal of a fair amount of fiberglass.

I removed the entire assembly and took it to a fab shop. I had an identical assembly made out of stainless steel for approximately $300. The re-installation is pretty simply if you're savvy with either fiberglass and resin or epoxy. If you do the work yourself make sure you have very good ventilation in the bow. It's a small space and you can easily be overwhelmed with dust and vapors.

Rebinva · Post by **Rebinva** » Apr 11th, '11, 12:13

I'll probably try the starboard method then. As I said, the backing plate isn't totally gone and this just a belt and suspenders approach.

John Stone · Post by **John Stone** » Apr 11th, '11, 12:23

My bowsprit backing plate was also covered in rust. Water entered between the hull-deck joint under the bottom edge of the bowsprit. It was a difficult job to remove it but I am very happy to have it gone. I'll use G10 as the backing plate when I reinstall.

Here is the link documenting how I took it out.

http://www.farreachvoyages.com/projects ... ement.html

Best of Luck.

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Apr 11th, '11, 14:12

John Stone wrote: http://www.farreachvoyages.com/projects ... ement.html

I have never come across your site before, wow, you have undertaken quite an impressive restoration/redesign of your CD36! I really like your ideas.

Dixon Hemphill · Post by **Dixon Hemphill** » Apr 11th, '11, 18:39

If you want to read what I found regarding the rust and what I plan to do about it refer to the topic "Old Sailors, Bold Sailors". Somehow my message ended up there.

Angela and Tom · Post by **Angela and Tom** » Apr 11th, '11, 23:22

Wouldn't water and moisture get trapped between the plywood/starboard and the backing plate and cause the steel rust even worse than if it were left exposed?

I bought a can of pricey metal primer six years ago with the intent to clean and paint our rusty plate but it seems like such a nasty, intimidating job that I've been procrastinating ever since.

What kind of scrapers do you use? Do the rust chips tend to go flying when you chip them off? What about goggles and a respirator? And how does rust converter work--does it eliminate scraping? Can you prime right over it?

Thanks. This thread's convinced me to not let it go any longer.

A

Dixon Hemphill · Post by **Dixon Hemphill** » Apr 12th, '11, 13:42

Tom and Angela,

Go to google with "How to paint over rust" and you'll find all sorts of info. I plan to wear a respirator and goggles while I spray a softening solvent, next scrape with a long handled metal scraper, then prime and finally paint with a POR (paint over rust) solution.

If your rust is not extensive I would take the above approach rather than spend thousands having a boatyard do the work.

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