26 motor well

Barney · Post by **Barney** » Mar 14th, '11, 09:34

Has anyone ever tried or thought of a way to jack up or pull up the outboard in the well after use?
I have mine in the well and it is bottom painted but it gets gunky fast and wondering about the intake water area getting fouled.
I am trying to design a lift or a jack to lift it after use and wondering if it has been done/tried?
thanks

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Mar 14th, '11, 14:17

Hi Barney,

I can't speak with authority. The outboard engine on my Ty pivots up when not in use.

Several years ago, there was some talk about weighting the bottom of a plastic bag, maybe something like a garbage bag, and passing it under the prop and pulling it up around the prop and lower unit.

One guy mentioned pouring a few drops of algecide into the bag. I haven't the foggiest idea how the idea worked, if it did work at all. Maybe someone else remembers more of the details.

Merely for FWIW.

J D

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Mar 14th, '11, 18:11

Harness on the outboard, from there to a snatch block on the back-stay; to the main halyard; to blocks leading to a winch.
2 man job; one to crank, the other holds the hatch open and guides the motor.

Dick

drb9 · Post by **drb9** » Mar 15th, '11, 09:01

I have the same problem--I use anti-fouling paint, but by mid-season, the motor is covered with barnacles and the growth on the propeller inhibits performance.

I have thought about lifting up the motor, but I am worried about theft. (I have a heavy, 8hp four-stroke, so storing the motor is not easy.)

I have spent the last year or so thinking about a different approach. I bought a couple of waterproof gear bags that are in a cylinder shape with an open top. I am trying to figure a way to weight the bottom of the bag and keep the top open. The goal is to slip the top of the bag under the motor and lift it up to shroud the part of the motor that is under water. Then, I would replace the salt water with fresh water. But, I haven't put this into action yet.

Gary M · Post by **Gary M** » Mar 15th, '11, 09:21

If you could figure a way to get this bag on your shaft while your motor is in the well, it could make a simple solution.

It works great for me, but my outboard does not live in a well.

Click on link below.

http://www.burgees.com/flushingbag/Model_SB2.htm

Good Luck

SAIL1 · Post by **SAIL1** » Mar 15th, '11, 09:44

Have used a 5-gal. plastic bucket on a 6hp nissan 4-stroke for over 10 years now...excellent results.

tried to upload a detailed description, but, can not get it to work...
so how does one do it?.......it's in jpeg

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Mar 15th, '11, 12:19

SAIL1 wrote:
tried to upload a detailed description, but, can not get it to work...
so how does one do it?.......it's in jpeg

Hi Sail1,

Disclaimer:
When it comes to digital magic when pertaining to electronic submission, I'm still building the pyramids. However, after diligent scratching and clawing, (with the support of some members of the CDSOA forum), I have arrived to the point whereby I can send pictures and documents to the board and *sometimes* it works.

I use a photo outfit called Picasa 3. It's free and has no commercial ads. I tried other outfits but just got hopelessly confused.

What I do is scan the picture or document. Picasa automatically downloads the item somewhere into my computer's bowels.

I then click Picasa on. Scroll to find the picture/document. Next, I click the pic/doc, which will then be framed in a blue border.

Then I click "upload" at the bottom of the screen. Another "upload" will then appear above it. Click on that one, too. Another box will appear with the word "upload" showing. Click on it. Wait a few seconds looking at a blank screen.

The pic/doc will appear on the left with some writing on the right side of the screen. You should see an icon of a link of chain. It will read "Link of Picture" and a few other things.

When you click on the link, actual links will appear as well as what size tou want the pic/doc to appear when transmitted. Use a link when sharing

Make sure that you click on "share" for others to see the pic/doc.

Fool around, experiment with the process. Practice by sending things to "Sandbox" section of the CDSOA forum. Cathy wrote detailed instructions for sending things to CDSOA. PMs and E-mail need one or the other link for it to work.

It works for me (most of the time)

Practice, practice, practice. It will come.

Good luck,
O J

Cathy Monaghan · Post by **Cathy Monaghan** » Mar 15th, '11, 12:49

SAIL1 wrote:Have used a 5-gal. plastic bucket on a 6hp nissan 4-stroke for over 10 years now...excellent results.

tried to upload a detailed description, but, can not get it to work...
so how does one do it?.......it's in jpeg

You may not upload anything to our web site other than a message board avatar. But you can include hotlinks and images within your posted messages. To do that, first you'll need to upload your images/photos to a web server -- to YOUR OWN web site or to an online photo service. Once you've done that, read the instructions in the links below to include them in your postings. [NOTE: All of these instructions are found elsewhere on this site -- "About this Board", "FAQs" and in "Need help starting?".]

In the 'About this Board' forum:

Sticky: Include a photo or graphic in a message posting....how to...

In the 'FAQs':

Can I post Images?

In 'Need help starting?':

How You Include Photos Within Posts:

In a nutshell, copy/paste the URL of your online photo(s) into the message body of your post. Select/highlight the entire URL, then click on the [Img] button. CLICK HERE for indepth instructions using BBCode then CLICK HERE for instructions using HTML. Please use HTML if your photos are wider than 600 pixels (don't forget to use the "width" command).

Hope this helps,
Cathy
Webmaster - CDSOA, Inc.

Cathy Monaghan · Post by **Cathy Monaghan** » Mar 15th, '11, 14:17

Joe's (SAIL1) instructions for making a "prop bucket" to prevent barnacles from growing on your outboard's prop while it's in the water and not in use are now online and accessible from this web site. You'll find them on the "Groups & Publications" page in the "Where to Look" section and you'll find a quick-link below:

http://www.capedory.org/manuals/PropBucket.pdf

-Cathy
Webmaster - CDSOA, Inc.

SAIL1 · Post by **SAIL1** » Mar 15th, '11, 14:40

Thanks Oswego John for tips on posting images to the site..I will keep in mind for future reference.
Thanks Cathy for sorting this out....it"s fortunate that we are all not technically challanged in this digital age.

drb9 · Post by **drb9** » Mar 15th, '11, 16:39

I guess my waterproof duffle is just a cross between the flushing bag and the 5 gallon bucket. I have had trouble finding a way to keep the open end of the duffle bag open in order to negotiate it around the bottom of my motor--and the 5-gallon bucket solves that. But, while the duffle bag is deep enough to encompass the entire lower unit of the motor, the 5-gallon bucket is not. I wonder if I just need to find a plastic tall kitchen garbage can . . . .

RIKanaka · Post by **RIKanaka** » Mar 15th, '11, 17:50

Here are links to Dana Arenius' website, former CD26 owner, where he describes flushing systems that he devised for his CD26 outboards in the well. The 1st seems simple enough to do, the 2nd a little more complicated:

http://mysite.verizon.net/darenius/Engi ... neWell.html

http://mysite.verizon.net/darenius/Yama ... ha9_9.html

I haven't tried either of these yet on my 9.9hp Honda. These systems only flush the interior cooling pathway of the outboard but then that is probably the most important part.

I have toyed with the idea of using a late model, 6hp British Seagull which, at 55#, is manageable enough to pull out of the well, rinse down, and stow. Whether or not it has enough thrust to push the CD26 is another matter and, of course, I'd have to contend with all that leaking gas and 2-stroke oil for which they are also legendary.

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Mar 15th, '11, 18:39

RIKanaka wrote:...I have toyed with the idea of using a late model, 6hp British Seagull which, at 55#, is manageable enough to pull out of the well, rinse down, and stow. Whether or not it has enough thrust to push the CD26 is another matter and, of course, I'd have to contend with all that leaking gas and 2-stroke oil for which they are also legendary.

I used to have a Paceship Westwind 24, which was designed by Ted Hood to be sailed this way. There was a plug which fit in the engine well for when the engine was removed, and there was room to lay the engine down in the cabin. (The plug was to smooth the flow of water, not to keep the boat from sinking!)

I really liked the concept, but I think you do need a lightweight engine to make this a safe and easy operation at sea. The previous owner of my boat had ruled this out by installing an 85 lb. engine with cockpit controls.

To avoid the obvious pollution, and for a nice clean sailing experience, I might be inclined to use an electric outboard motor, but I do have a soft spot for Seagulls. The electric motor will certainly be the lightest possibility to remove while sailing.

It doesn't take a lot of power to push a boat in our size range in calm conditions, especially if you are willing to travel at less than hull speed. I think I calculated this at somewhere around 2hp to move at 4 knots, for a 20 foot waterline. Waves and headwinds can erase this quickly, of course, but then you can be sailing anyway.

Please let us know what you do, and how it works out?

Steve Zwicky · Post by **Steve Zwicky** » Mar 16th, '11, 10:50

Hi Barney, I dealt with this issue several years ago. My solution was to sew a bag (from an old tarp) and attach the top edges to a pvc frame. Using a pvc "fork" to slide the bag under the motor and a short hooked wire to retrieve cords and cleat them inside the well, this project is best done if you have a dock.
If you can fill the bag with fresh water, you can flush your motor. The bags last me about a year and I make up several at a time while I'm at the sewing machine. Will be glad to send pics if you're interested. Steve

SAIL1 · Post by **SAIL1** » Mar 16th, '11, 11:04

The 5-gal bucket was the right size for the 6hp 4str. in this case and protected the whole lower unit as the lip of the bucket was about 2" above waterline.
A bigger outbd would probably require a larger bucket, small
trash can, etc. I also noticed in the construction industry the use
of large plastc containers for spackle used on drywall..find an empty one.
Anyway, there are two key elements to this concept.
One is the anchoring of the bucket off the skeg of the outbd and the other is the use of the bungy chord loop that keeps contant
tension on the hang. These keep the bucket from flopping/tipping
from side to side.
Whatever concept is used , it does not have to be watertite, all that is needed is to dissrupt the flow of nutients and to a lessor
extent sunlight.

The Cape Dory Board

26 motor well

26 motor well

Engine Hoist

Pulling Up The Outboard

A different approach?

Could you get a flushing bag to work?

Pulling up the Outbd

Re: Pulling up the Outbd

Re: Pulling up the Outbd

How to make a "prop bucket"...

Outbd. protection

Yes . . .

outboard flush system

Removable outboard

26 motor well

Outbd protection