CD-22 Cabin Sole Replacement
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD-22 Cabin Sole Replacement
23 Nov 2010; The cabin sole looks pretty bad - actually it looks real bad at the moment since I finally removed the whole thing last weekend. Today I ordered a half sheet (2’x8’) of ½â€
New cabin sole
Fantastic job Warren! It looks great. Mine is dirty, not badly damaged though. I will try some Murphy's first to see if that helps.
Your 22 is looking more ''new'' every day.
Best,
John d
Your 22 is looking more ''new'' every day.
Best,
John d
Moulded-in lip?
I've been hoarding a couple of pieces of teak and holly sole material for a couple of years now, trying to work up the nerve to take this on. Congratulations to you, and thanks for 'showing the way'.
1) I see there is a recess in your fiberglass liner, where the teak and holly material fits. Is this moulded right into the liner, or is it formed by separate strips of moulding?
The reason I ask is that my CD 27 didn't have a teak sole in the first place and there is no recess for one. I have been fretting about how to make the transition from the flat sole to the sloping sides. Based on your work and photos, now, though, I think I could maybe bridge this gap with strips of moulding around the edges.
2) My other question is regarding the varnish. I like the way your "rubbed effect" varnish looks, but I am wondering how slippery it is. Did you research any non-skid coatings? I used to think that Ultimate Sole would the best thing to use, but then they seem to have gone out of business.
By the way, I think the CD 22 is the prettiest boat in the fleet (next to the 27, of course ).
1) I see there is a recess in your fiberglass liner, where the teak and holly material fits. Is this moulded right into the liner, or is it formed by separate strips of moulding?
The reason I ask is that my CD 27 didn't have a teak sole in the first place and there is no recess for one. I have been fretting about how to make the transition from the flat sole to the sloping sides. Based on your work and photos, now, though, I think I could maybe bridge this gap with strips of moulding around the edges.
2) My other question is regarding the varnish. I like the way your "rubbed effect" varnish looks, but I am wondering how slippery it is. Did you research any non-skid coatings? I used to think that Ultimate Sole would the best thing to use, but then they seem to have gone out of business.
By the way, I think the CD 22 is the prettiest boat in the fleet (next to the 27, of course ).
Cabin Sole
Duncan,
I have to agree, the 22 and the 27 are great looking boats. If I lived closer to the coast I would probably upgrade to a 27.
The recess is molded directly into the liner. Since there is no recess in your liner you could conceivably cut or sand the edges to match the sloping sides, but stripsof moulding around the edges would probably make a lot less complicated.
As far as the varnish being slippery when wet goes, inside a CD-22 you may slip and slide, but you aren't going very far.
I didn't do a great deal of research when I selected the Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish. According to the Defender product description it seemed to be the best choice. Rubbed Effect Varnish, a one-component interior varnish based on urethane alkyd resins, gives a rich clear amber satin finish.
Features:
For maximum durability, clarity and depth, apply two coats of Rubbed Effect Varnish over several coats of Epifanes Clear Gloss Varnish, Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss or Epifanes Polyurethane Clear Gloss
Can also be applied directly to bare wood
Can be applied to any interior softwood or hardwood and is highly recommended for cabin sole, doors and trim
Its hard satin finish has good scratch and scuff resistance and is impervious to most onboard chemicals
I have to agree, the 22 and the 27 are great looking boats. If I lived closer to the coast I would probably upgrade to a 27.
The recess is molded directly into the liner. Since there is no recess in your liner you could conceivably cut or sand the edges to match the sloping sides, but stripsof moulding around the edges would probably make a lot less complicated.
As far as the varnish being slippery when wet goes, inside a CD-22 you may slip and slide, but you aren't going very far.
I didn't do a great deal of research when I selected the Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish. According to the Defender product description it seemed to be the best choice. Rubbed Effect Varnish, a one-component interior varnish based on urethane alkyd resins, gives a rich clear amber satin finish.
Features:
For maximum durability, clarity and depth, apply two coats of Rubbed Effect Varnish over several coats of Epifanes Clear Gloss Varnish, Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss or Epifanes Polyurethane Clear Gloss
Can also be applied directly to bare wood
Can be applied to any interior softwood or hardwood and is highly recommended for cabin sole, doors and trim
Its hard satin finish has good scratch and scuff resistance and is impervious to most onboard chemicals
Re: Cabin Sole
That's what I was thinking, much less fussy.hughesw wrote:Since there is no recess in your liner you could conceivably cut or sand the edges to match the sloping sides, but stripsof moulding around the edges would probably make a lot less complicated.
Thanks!
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sfreihofer
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FWIW:
My CD25 had a teak/holly plywood sole, sanded (probably with a belt sander) to a tapered edge to fit. It was bonded with a Liquid Nails type mastic, and screwed down about every 14" along the edge. There was no molding, except around the bilge hatch.
This may not be relevant to your boat, because my CD25 has a 1/2"recess in the hull liner, apparently with the intent of adding a plywood sole.
My CD25 had a teak/holly plywood sole, sanded (probably with a belt sander) to a tapered edge to fit. It was bonded with a Liquid Nails type mastic, and screwed down about every 14" along the edge. There was no molding, except around the bilge hatch.
This may not be relevant to your boat, because my CD25 has a 1/2"recess in the hull liner, apparently with the intent of adding a plywood sole.
Instant Bubble-head. Just add water.
Getting the bevel right
Aha, even worse - a recess plus a bevel.sfreihofer wrote:FWIW:
My CD25 had a teak/holly plywood sole, sanded (probably with a belt sander) to a tapered edge to fit. It was bonded with a Liquid Nails type mastic, and screwed down about every 14" along the edge. There was no molding, except around the bilge hatch.
This may not be relevant to your boat, because my CD25 has a 1/2"recess in the hull liner, apparently with the intent of adding a plywood sole.
Of, course, it could get even more complex if I tried to cut pieces that would match up with the sole, and cover the sloping sides. That would be seriously above my pay grade!
I think I will keep it simple, by cutting vertically, screwing it down, and filling in the v-gap with moulding. I am thinking that. if I make the moulding a bit too shallow, I can "fillet" the top of it with goop. That could get it even all around, hide some mistakes, and make a smooth transition to the sloping sides.