Biting the Bullet

[Joe Myerson]

This topic is so vast that I hardly know where to begin -- but I know this board is the place to start.

This year I have decided not to store Creme Brulee at my local neighborhood boat yard. I made the decision reluctantly, as my family has used the services of this family-owned yard, in one way or another, since the mid-1960s.

I recently had a few issues with their engine service (they apparently did not check on my raw-water impeller, and did not remove it every year--hence my little incident in the Sakonnet River), but it's really a question of finances.

It costs me about $4K a year to have the boat hauled/stored/launched at this yard. I'm hoping I can reduce that significantly. If not, I'll probably be back at the yard next year.

Anyway, I've found a place to store the boat for a flat fee, I've contacted a hauler, and he'll call me "after Columbus Day" to arrange a date. But what I really need to do is decide which steps I can do on my own and which I need to contract out.

The yard I was using has just increased its hourly rate to $86, and most of the independent contractors in the area charge $50. Still, I don't really know if I'll come out ahead.

My assumption is that, since I don't have a full-time job (haven't had one since a year ago in July), I should be able to put more of my own time into winterizing and fitting out the boat.

Here are some questions I have for all the D-I-Y experts on this board:

--Power-washing: Is this something I can do myself, renting a power-washer for a day?

--Winter cover: I'm sure I can find somebody to shrinkwrap the boat, but don't know if they'll be any cheaper than the yard. I don't have much faith in tarps, but cannot afford a Fairclough cover this year -- even though I spoke with them, and they're eager to offer deals.

--Engine winterizing/maintenance: Even though the IGM is about as simple an engine as there is, I'm kind of a mechanical klutz. Can I attempt this myself, or should I contract it out. Oh, the water pump needs replacement. That looks like an easy job, but should I attempt that, or lump both jobs together and hire somebody?

--Draining systems and adding antifreeze: These jobs seem simple enough, but I'd hate to mess up. I have a very basic freshwater system and a head that seems to have a clogged vent. Any suggestions?

--Battery storage/maintenance: I have two lead/acid batteries. They're heavy, but I could probably charge them and store them in a heated basement. (There's a thread on this subject, I know.)

--Electrical problems: During the trip to and from Bristol, RI, I discovered that my VHF antenna circuit has a break someplace, and some of my lights don't seem to work properly (no steaming light or deck light).

--Bilge: The yard always puts some of that RV antifreeze in the bottom of the bilge to handle any potential freezing.

--Have I forgotten anything important?

--Joe

[JWSutcliffe]

Joe:

Wow! I assumed things were a bit more expensive in Mass, but $4K is outrageous. We spend about $1700 for hauling/winter storage/launching. As far as winterizing, it takes us about 3 hours on the last weekend before hauling to winterize everything ourselves. It cost me about $250 last fall for 2 tarps and enough framing lumber to build a frame, which held together for the whole winter and will be reused this season. Power washing is easy (although that is one task I leave to the yard.)

No part of the winterizing or commissioning tasks are rocket science. Put together a checklist, ask questions As needed and just take your time doing it all. Everything related to winterizing has been covered extensively on this board. The probable outcome will be that you end up a lot more comfortable with working on your engine and other systems, and your Creme Brulee will show off all the extra work you were able to do by having the boat closer to home.

[Markst95]

Joe- It might be a little ride for you but Brewers Wickford Cove Marina is charging $4.00/sq ft for hauling, storage, pressure wash and launch. For the 25D that amounts to about $800. Both Bob Chinn and I used them last year. They allow you to work on your own boat so you can do all the projects you mentioned yourself.

[Oswego John]

Joe,

$4,000 a year seems high for services. In the Oswego, NY area of the Great Lakes, I have friends with larger, heavier boats than yours who pay between $2,000 and $2,500 a year for launching and storing with crane service. I might add that this cost includes seasonal slip tie-up.

I don't know how it is in the rest of the country, but in these parts, sailing is on the wane. I suppose that the poor economy has something to do with it. Where, a few short years ago, there was a waiting list for space to tie your boat up, now the local marinas are only half full. This trickles down to less boats for the shipyards to work on. Less fuel and provisions and equipment sold. It's hard to fathom the reason why shipyards are laying off and their prices have risen. The local yards are cutting deals for our business. One of our marinas just went under and the city now owns it. Maybe for back taxes owed. It's sad.

To change the subject, are there any local boaters that you know who are savvy to self storage and winterizing and can show you the procedures involved? Do you presently have a trailer for your boat? If not, that's something to consider to save big $$$ on home storage.

Tarping your boat for a year or two until you have enough to purchase a more durable covering is not demeaning in my book. Winterizing isn't rocket science once you learn the proper way to do it. All of these annual tasks might seem awesome at first, but in time, they will really help out the budget minded boater.

Good luck,
O J

[Neil Gordon]

>>It costs me about $4K a year to have the boat hauled/stored/launched at this yard.<<

$6500 at marina bay will get you a haul out, power wash, oil and filter change, engine winterization, shrink wrap, winter storage (mast up), spring launch and a slip for 2011.

>>I've contacted a hauler, and he'll call me "after Columbus Day" to arrange a date.<<

What's your backup plan???

>>Power-washing: Is this something I can do myself, renting a power-washer for a day?<<

I'm thinking you need to power wash the bottom while the slime and little critters are still wet.

>>Draining systems and adding antifreeze: <<

First you drain the system, then you add antifreeze. What exactly was your question? (Seriously, pump the water tank until it's empty. Add anti-freeze and pump until purple stuff comes out the faucet. Same with the head... empty, flush and empty the holding tank. Pour antifreeze in the bowl and pump it through the system.

Oh... open your seacocks to drain them and the related hoses.

>>Battery storage/maintenance<<

I leave them on the boat.

>>Electrical problems: <<

Find someone who knows how to use a multi-meter and it's pretty easy. (Note: If the first thing you do is climb the mast, you'll find the bulbs for the steaming and deck light are just fine, as is the wiring.)

>>Bilge:<<

Yes, pour some antifreeze in the bilge. Whatever water seeps in over the winter will be happier that way.

>>Have I forgotten anything important?<<

Yes. Do not leave single malt on the boat over the winter. It won't freeze but you might find yourself slitting the winter cover to get at it.

[MFC]

Hi Joe -
Nothing particularly unique to add - but I'd echo those who have offered encouragement. I figure if I can handle some of this stuff -- pretty much anybody can. I really enjoy the work. Couple comments below in red.
Matt

what I really need to do is decide which steps I can do on my own and which I need to contract out.

That sounds like a good plan


Here are some questions I have for all the D-I-Y experts on this board:

--Power-washing: Is this something I can do myself, renting a power-washer for a day?

You can definitely do it -- and you'll probably meet someone who owns a pressure washer at the DIY yard -- at worst, you can split a rental.

--Winter cover: I'm sure I can find somebody to shrinkwrap the boat, but don't know if they'll be any cheaper than the yard. I don't have much faith in tarps, but cannot afford a Fairclough cover this year -- even though I spoke with them, and they're eager to offer deals.

I did a blue tarp with 1x4 and pvc frame last winter for under $200 including ties and all sorts of tape -- can probably get another year out of the tarp.

--Engine winterizing/maintenance: Even though the IGM is about as simple an engine as there is, I'm kind of a mechanical klutz. Can I attempt this myself, or should I contract it out. Oh, the water pump needs replacement. That looks like an easy job, but should I attempt that, or lump both jobs together and hire somebody?

If you can replace the pump, you can definitely do the winterization. I find that sort of work empowering -- it is not rushed work (you can stop and find answers if need be) and you gain all sorts of confidence by completing it.

--Draining systems and adding antifreeze: These jobs seem simple enough, but I'd hate to mess up. I have a very basic freshwater system and a head that seems to have a clogged vent. Any suggestions?

--Battery storage/maintenance: I have two lead/acid batteries. They're heavy, but I could probably charge them and store them in a heated basement. (There's a thread on this subject, I know.)

I put a door on my tarp and checked the batteries every so often -- they seem to have done fine through an excepotionally cold winter last year -- I did keep a charge on them0

--Bilge: The yard always puts some of that RV antifreeze in the bottom of the bilge to handle any potential freezing.

--Have I forgotten anything important?

Make sure the holding tank is empty or otherwise freeze protected. Hot water heater tank empty? Drain through hulls so the fitting is not holding water. There are some good checklists on line

--Joe

[Angela and Tom]

We store our boat in our back yard and are on our fifth year reusing the brand new original shrink wrap that was on our boat when we bought it. Tom's cousin told us that if you carefully unroll it in the spring from the stern to bow and store it somewhere mouse-free, you can unroll it and put it back on in the reverse order in the fall. And that's what we've been doing.

We also saved the original lathe strapping ridgepole and 2 x 4's that hold it up and marked where they go with a fat black waterproof marker. We also saved and reused all the string and strips of shrink wrap that cushion all the pressure points. If you run out, just gather up what everyone is throwing away in the yard in the spring to replenish your supply. You may even be able to scavenge extra wood for the frame.

This year, we'll need to replace the ridge pole but I think we might get away with yet another year out of the rest of it. Over the years we've had to a patch few holes with tape. I think we had to repair/replace the zippered door once and may have to again this year but it's mostly because the stitching came out of the zipper and I might try sewing it back together first. So for a $35 door and the cost of some shrink tape, it's been a pretty cheap five years for tight-fitting wind and weatherproof cover.

Another thing that both Tom's cousin and the Abatos recommended that we've found to be invaluable is a garboard drain. Water never collects in the bilge to cause freezing damage. A cotton sock in the hole wicks the water that would sit in the bottom below the drain hole but I don't think it would really matter anyway especially with a dollop of antifreeze. Cleaning inside the boat and emptying the water tanks so easy with the drain.

[Oswego John]

I can attest to the fact that a garboard drain is a very handy, useful addition to your bilge.

Years back, I used to purge remaining water from the plumbing systems with a small electric air compressor and a schrader valve.

One year back in time, my late wife asked me, other than the perennial tie, coffee mug or hideous sweater, what I would like for a birthday present. I answered that a new air compressor would fill the bill nicely.

What I had in mind was a semi-commercial compressor, maybe 5 HP or so, that could produce over 125 lbs pressure with high output volume. What she bought me was a 1 HP combined motor/compressor unit. It fit into a box no bigger than16" x 12" x12". I guess that I didn't do a very good job hiding my disillusionment.

Let me tell you that the little gem she bought me over twenty years ago is one of the best, handiest tools in my shop. I use it for so many things. I never weighed it but I would guess that it weighs in somewhere betweer 12# and 16#. It came with a 10 foot power cord and 20 feet of air hose. I can pick it up by its handle with one hand. If needs be, I can throw it into the back of my vehicle and travel with it. But I digress.

I cut a valve section from an old tire inner tube. (remember them?)The circular section is about 8"" in diameter. Holding on to the valve stem, I would jam it down into the inspection or fill hole in the tank. The surrounding rubber tube would somewhat seal the opening. The air seal didn't have to be airtight.

I would set the pressure adjustment on low. With the compressor running, I would place the air chuck on the valve and purge any remaining water out of the system, one section at a time. An open faucet or other outlet must be open to let the remaining water escape.

One winter day, receiving inspiration from my hero, Rube Goldberg, I set up a tank reservoir in order to build up pressure in higher volume.. Now, when I spray paint, the spray doesn't pulsate but delivers a steady application. It also drives small air tools. I occasionally sand blast with it. It is surprisingly handy to have.

O J

[Dean Abramson]

Joe,

The 1GM is easy to winterize. I am recalling from many years with our own 25D, so I might have a few minor details wrong, but here is the gist of it:

First, remove the thermostat. This just involves taking off the cover (be careful not to damage the gasket) and pulling it out. Re-assemble the housing without the thermostat. Now the pink stuff will go everywhere you need it to.

Close engine cooling seacock, and remove the engine cooling hose from the seacock. You need a bucket and a hose/nozzle. Fill a bucket with fresh water, and place the hose in it.

Have a buddy start the engine while you hold the hose in the bucket; as it sucks the freshwater in, add more with the hose, until you have run about three buckets thru. When your buddy sees that no more water is coming out of the exhaust, kill the engine. You have now rinsed the innards with fresh water. Now fill the bucket with the pink stuff (the kind that has rust-inhibitors), and repeat the process. I used to run two gallons of non-tox thru mine. When the bucket is empty, your buddy kills the engine.

(While the engine is warm, you might want to drain/change the oil and filter.)

Put the hose back in place on the seacock. Replace the thermostat. You are done.

Most folks also then remove the raw water impeller. I tended to leave it in, then check it for wear/cracks in the spring. If you do not have a Speedseal cover for the water pump, I highly recommend you buy one, as it makes checking the impeller about a zillion times easier.

Over the winter, read up in your manual about how to check the engine zinc. It is quite simple, but a little hard to get at, and it involves loosening the belt and swinging the alternator out of the way. In the spring, do the zinc check-or-replace, and while you are at it, see if your belt looks worn. You will have had to remove the belt to swing the alternator out of the way, so this is a good time to put a new one on. Just take the existing belt to NAPA and say give me one of these, and a spare.

Once you do this routine once, it is a no-stress deal. And you will feel a lot more confident out on the water, because you will have lots more familiarity with your 1GM. You can do it. Go for it!

Dean

[trapper]

Hi Joe,

I dont know much about winterizing a boat. It is simply not an issue here in sunny South Carolina. But I do power wash a boat from time to time.

We have the big gas power washer which I use rarely. I need Ben to get the thing started and then if it goes off, I have to call Ben to start it again. I like to use the electric pressure washer. It is not nearly as powerful. However, I have found that it does fine for most things, including washing boat bottoms. It cost less than $100 and it will last for a few years. You need to pressure wash as soon as possible after the boat is hauled, right away if possible.

I think $6K per year is very expensive. I dont haul Saga, her berth is about $1400 per year. At $6K, I would consider a trailer. head south and have a great winter sailing venue!

[Markst95]

I dont haul Saga, her berth is about $1400 per year.

Is that at a dock? $1400.00 will barely get you a mooring for the summer up here.

[trapper]

Dock, with shore power and water included-- No charge for parking --Gen pole and restrooms and lounge available--

all on a 50,000 acres lake.

[Joe Myerson]

Thanks for the suggestions, everybody.

If anybody else wants to chime in, your experience is also welcome.

--Joe

[BillyO]

I see that you have a 25D.... Mine is a 22...on Winnipesaukee.
Haul out is $100. Shrink wrap is $300. Storage $500.Moorng for season is $1500.

[Joe Myerson]

OK, Billy, rub it in.



Of course, I'm on the ocean, which has to count for something.

Oh, yeah. My mooring costs me $75 a year (resident).



--Joe