The shipyard stepped the mast of "Dawntreader" before my arrival (maybe a good thing - I haven't sailed anything larger than a sunfish in 25 years). The forward stay is aft of the forward attachment (whatever we call this) for the jib. Is this right? It would seem to ensure fouling the foot (if I have this term right) on one tack.
Also, the wooden mount for my outboard is cracked in two, and I don't have both pieces. Does anybody have handy the dimensions for this item?
Many thanks- Benjamin
benjamin.warnke@csh.org
2 Ty questions: rigging & motor mount specs
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Rick Parish
Re: 2 Ty questions: rigging & motor mount specs
B,
The forestay should mounted be forward of the jib tack shackle. While you are checking rigging make sure the lower shrouds are attached to the forward chain plate and the upper shrouds are attached to the aft chain plate. As to dimensions for the motor mount, cut a rectangular pattern 1" longer and 1" higher than the bolt center to center dimensions. Use several layers of plywood instead of one piece of 2 by something. The laminates are much stronger and won't split. When you have cut the pieces, epoxy them together and seal the end grain. Drill holes, then seal the exposed grain inside the holes. Bolt the wood to the bronze bracket and you are ready to go. You might want to check to see if the motor will fit correctly if you use a rectanglular shaped wooden bracket. For my Nissen to fit I had to notch the top of the wooden bracket.
Rick
rick.parish@honeywell.com
The forestay should mounted be forward of the jib tack shackle. While you are checking rigging make sure the lower shrouds are attached to the forward chain plate and the upper shrouds are attached to the aft chain plate. As to dimensions for the motor mount, cut a rectangular pattern 1" longer and 1" higher than the bolt center to center dimensions. Use several layers of plywood instead of one piece of 2 by something. The laminates are much stronger and won't split. When you have cut the pieces, epoxy them together and seal the end grain. Drill holes, then seal the exposed grain inside the holes. Bolt the wood to the bronze bracket and you are ready to go. You might want to check to see if the motor will fit correctly if you use a rectanglular shaped wooden bracket. For my Nissen to fit I had to notch the top of the wooden bracket.
Rick
Benjamin wrote: The shipyard stepped the mast of "Dawntreader" before my arrival (maybe a good thing - I haven't sailed anything larger than a sunfish in 25 years). The forward stay is aft of the forward attachment (whatever we call this) for the jib. Is this right? It would seem to ensure fouling the foot (if I have this term right) on one tack.
Also, the wooden mount for my outboard is cracked in two, and I don't have both pieces. Does anybody have handy the dimensions for this item?
Many thanks- Benjamin
rick.parish@honeywell.com
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John Halporn
Re: 2 Ty questions: rigging & motor mount specs
I think the lower shroud goes to the aft chain plate and the upper one goes to the forward attachment. JH
jhalpo@javanet.com
jhalpo@javanet.com
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Don C
Re: 2 Ty questions: rigging & motor mount specs
Ben- the owner's manual for the Typhoon Weekender clearly shows the upper shroud fastened to the forward chainplate ( page 5.23) If you haven't yet received the dimensions of the motor mount wooden block I'll measure mine tomorrow and post a note to you. good luck
Don C Seabrook NH
donjoecam@aol.com
Don C Seabrook NH
donjoecam@aol.com