Just wanted some feedback on how difficult it is to remove the coaming board on the 25d? It looks like there are bunged screw holes at the bottom of the board and then the two screws/bolts inside the cabin? Am I missing any other difficult to remove connections?
I am trying for the second time to repair a crack inthe aft end of the board and the gorilla glue I used the first time has not lasted. I plan to remove the board and use a small dowel or two this time with epoxy.
25d coaming board removal/repair
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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frankfurder
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Feb 11th, '06, 11:47
- Location: Cape Dory 25dLake Grapevine, Texas
coaming removal
I would first research the archives. Not difficult. get the bungs out,(screw thru the center method works well). The fasteners are ss sheet metal screws,(on my boat-then replaced with machine screws,fender washers,nylocs ).
For the crack, is it possible to get a countersunk screw or 2 up from the bottom thru the crack ? I'm assuming the location is at the notch on the aft end.
If the end of the crack can be seen a small hole, 1/4"- 3/8" can be drilled and bunged. That sometimes relieves the stress at the end of the crack and it will terminate.
If the crack is not clean and without gaps success with glue alone is doubtful. You may also try cutting a kerf a bit beyond the crack and gluing in a filler piece. With a decent job of refinishing the repair should be hardly apparent.
________
Herbal health shop
For the crack, is it possible to get a countersunk screw or 2 up from the bottom thru the crack ? I'm assuming the location is at the notch on the aft end.
If the end of the crack can be seen a small hole, 1/4"- 3/8" can be drilled and bunged. That sometimes relieves the stress at the end of the crack and it will terminate.
If the crack is not clean and without gaps success with glue alone is doubtful. You may also try cutting a kerf a bit beyond the crack and gluing in a filler piece. With a decent job of refinishing the repair should be hardly apparent.
________
Herbal health shop
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 06:18, edited 1 time in total.
25D Coaming Removal
Not too difficult to do
1. Remove bungs as described by the earlier post
2. This is the annoying part, inside the cabin there are 3 good sized screws holding the forward part on. Unfortunately you will have to remove the circuit breaker panel to get at the port side. Starboard is easy
3. Break out the putty knife. The boards are affixed with some type of adhesive that is pretty tenacious. Work from fore to aft and loosen the boards.
4. Clean up goo off the fiberglass. If you're considering varnishing or Cetol-ing, now would be a good time to do it.
1. Remove bungs as described by the earlier post
2. This is the annoying part, inside the cabin there are 3 good sized screws holding the forward part on. Unfortunately you will have to remove the circuit breaker panel to get at the port side. Starboard is easy
3. Break out the putty knife. The boards are affixed with some type of adhesive that is pretty tenacious. Work from fore to aft and loosen the boards.
4. Clean up goo off the fiberglass. If you're considering varnishing or Cetol-ing, now would be a good time to do it.
Teak Coaming Board
The port coaming on our 28 also had a crack - it angled gradually upward from the aft end up to the cleat (just aft of the winch). It never did break completely but we decided to replace it (and the starboard side too) anyway. We used 3/4 inch teak (the price of which is scary...) this time for extra strength. Unless absolutely necessary, you may find it easier not to remove the teak piece coming out from the cabin top. On our boat, those pieces were still in good shape so we left those in place, and just attached the new boards to these. It took a little sanding to blend the new teak to old, but the end result looks terrific! I'll try to post some pics...
Richard
Richard
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Chris & Dale Schnell
- Posts: 50
- Joined: May 12th, '05, 10:50
- Location: 1969 Typhoon Weekender, MISS DALE, #27, Southport, NC
Had the same problem on my old CD 25. As indicated in other replies, I remove the bungs, screws, and then the coaming board. The stern end is smaller and easier to damage. I was able to very carefully drill 2 long holes from the underside thru to the crack and a 1/2" beyond for the long ss screws. I then mixed up West System 2 part epoxy. I then used old teak sawdust as my filler & coloring agent which worked very well. Pry open the crack, fill it with epoxy, close it, and carefully set your screws in place. You will feel it bite and tighten up. Make sure you quickly remove all excess epoxy that oozes out, and then carefully wipe up w/acetone. Be careful to avoid the acetone on the actual crack/epoxy. Let setup 24 hours minimum. A light sanding will remove any excess epoxy. I wasn't too worried about it though, as I use West System epoxy to seal my bare wood coamings (3-4 coats) which totally encapsulates the wood. Then 3-4 coats of Epifanes gloss varnish and you have a beautiful high-gloss finish that will last for years with only minor annual maintenance each year. Good Luck
Full Sails & Calm Seas,
Chris & Dale Schnell
s/v MISS DALE, #27
1969 Alberg Typhoon Weekender
Southport, NC
Chris & Dale Schnell
s/v MISS DALE, #27
1969 Alberg Typhoon Weekender
Southport, NC
adhesive
I went to the trouble of removing the bungs and screws, and only then realized how firmly the boards were glued on. Fearful that I would damage the wood or the fiberglass, I gave up, rescrewing and re-bunging the boards. (I was trying to remove them to take home and refinish. More a matter of convenience than necessity.)
drb9,
A sharp putty knife used vertically on the back of the board between fiberglass will cut thru any sealant,(may have to use a mallet) and should not cause any damage.
mine had a minimal amount of caulk and came off easily
________
MAZDA 929
A sharp putty knife used vertically on the back of the board between fiberglass will cut thru any sealant,(may have to use a mallet) and should not cause any damage.
mine had a minimal amount of caulk and came off easily
________
MAZDA 929
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 06:18, edited 1 time in total.
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Dick Kobayashi
- Posts: 596
- Joined: Apr 2nd, '05, 16:31
- Location: Former owner of 3 CDs, most recently Susan B, a 25D
Brass Hinges
I kept splits at the aft end of the coamings together and kept the splits from getting worse by the simple expedient of getting a brass hinge, separating the two parts, sawing off the holes for the pins so I had two flat pieces of brass. Then I screwed them into the coamings at the aft ends, once the lacquer has worn off they will be a nice green like the rest of my oxidized brass. Total time: 30 minutes. But remember this is from a guy who does NOTHING to Susan B's teak.
Dick K
CD 25D Susan B #104
Mattapoisett, MA
Fleet Captain - Northeast Fleet 2014/2015
Tempus Fugit. And not only that, it goes by fast. (Ron Vacarro 1945 - 1971)
CD 25D Susan B #104
Mattapoisett, MA
Fleet Captain - Northeast Fleet 2014/2015
Tempus Fugit. And not only that, it goes by fast. (Ron Vacarro 1945 - 1971)
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tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
nice bench
Tartansailor - nice bench, nice tools.....as you know, the wood is cheap compared to the labor.
I replaced one of my coamings which had split, cost about $150 for the board, and at least 20 hours of labor finishing, re-installing, building up coats over the new bungs, sanding THAT, final coating, re-caulking, and re-mounting hardware.
I'd much rather not go through all that again just to save the cost of the board. I do have to admit, though, that the board was also fairly weathered and worn down from lots of scrubbing.
I DID refinish the other side, as the wood had a particularly nice grain pattern to it. In the end, it's only about 5/8" thick now, but very pretty.
Matt
I replaced one of my coamings which had split, cost about $150 for the board, and at least 20 hours of labor finishing, re-installing, building up coats over the new bungs, sanding THAT, final coating, re-caulking, and re-mounting hardware.
I'd much rather not go through all that again just to save the cost of the board. I do have to admit, though, that the board was also fairly weathered and worn down from lots of scrubbing.
I DID refinish the other side, as the wood had a particularly nice grain pattern to it. In the end, it's only about 5/8" thick now, but very pretty.
Matt
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tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Thanks, I made it from
Thanks
I made it from a Tage Frid design.
Solid Maple.
Dick
I made it from a Tage Frid design.
Solid Maple.
Dick
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Ben Thomas
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:17
- Location: 82 CD30 Milagro Hull #248
Installing
On "Milagro" I had to remove the boards with hammer and chiesel. Someone had used 5200 at some time. Came off in big slivers.
Replaced with teak 3/4" thick boards with an additional 3/4"x 3/4" trim from cleat to aft end of board (outboard). This made sitting on them trimming head sail a little more comfortable.
The real issue was getting the thicker boards back in place along the curve of cockpit.
I cut to length three 2x4s angled ends to match curve slightly longer than necessary wrapped ends with cloth so as not to damage finish, placed combings in place careful not to cover attachment points with 2x4 and hammered 2x4s into position. 2x4s both ends and middle along length of combing. This held the combing in place quite nicely. Ease tension on 2x4 to tweak the placement of combing and attach. Don't forget to chaulk. I had pre green taped deck and board for any chaulking spill. This gave a nice clean crisp edge on the chaulking.
Have fun!
Replaced with teak 3/4" thick boards with an additional 3/4"x 3/4" trim from cleat to aft end of board (outboard). This made sitting on them trimming head sail a little more comfortable.
The real issue was getting the thicker boards back in place along the curve of cockpit.
I cut to length three 2x4s angled ends to match curve slightly longer than necessary wrapped ends with cloth so as not to damage finish, placed combings in place careful not to cover attachment points with 2x4 and hammered 2x4s into position. 2x4s both ends and middle along length of combing. This held the combing in place quite nicely. Ease tension on 2x4 to tweak the placement of combing and attach. Don't forget to chaulk. I had pre green taped deck and board for any chaulking spill. This gave a nice clean crisp edge on the chaulking.
Have fun!