Looking for Typhoon companion boards
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mjohn
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Apr 6th, '10, 14:34
- Location: Typhoon Weekender, Versus, #1670, Bethlehem, PA
Looking for Typhoon companion boards
Anyone know of a source for teak companion boards for a Typhoon Weekender? Currently have something in place, but would like to maintain Pardessus's integrity to the extent that I can.
teak companionway boards
If you find or make a pattern for the three boards it seems like it would be a pretty straight forward woodworking project. Of course the big expense would be in finding and purchasing the teak stock of sufficient width. Shop around though and maybe one 9 foot (?) long board of sufficient width might be enough.
Both edges of the middle board, the top edge of the lower board, and the lower edge of the top board would require their horizontal edges to be sawn on an angle with a table saw (30 degrees?). (I'm leaving out the detail of ensuring you account for the distance each horizontal bevel occupies.) The taper on the sides on all three could be cut with a skilsaw with a guide board clamped in place at the correct angle for the edge of the saw to follow. The curve on the top of the uppermost board could be made with a jigsaw as could the slot for the hatch tang after drilling a starting hole. Some 100 grit sandpaper, elbow grease, and your choice of finish would give you factory-like companionway boards.
Forgive me if this is not something you would like to do or don't have the time or tools to tackle it. If tools are an issue, you could probably ask a local cabinet shop to fabricate the bevels and angles on the sides. Again, the teak will be expensive but it sure does look good and is original. Just some food for thought.
Both edges of the middle board, the top edge of the lower board, and the lower edge of the top board would require their horizontal edges to be sawn on an angle with a table saw (30 degrees?). (I'm leaving out the detail of ensuring you account for the distance each horizontal bevel occupies.) The taper on the sides on all three could be cut with a skilsaw with a guide board clamped in place at the correct angle for the edge of the saw to follow. The curve on the top of the uppermost board could be made with a jigsaw as could the slot for the hatch tang after drilling a starting hole. Some 100 grit sandpaper, elbow grease, and your choice of finish would give you factory-like companionway boards.
Forgive me if this is not something you would like to do or don't have the time or tools to tackle it. If tools are an issue, you could probably ask a local cabinet shop to fabricate the bevels and angles on the sides. Again, the teak will be expensive but it sure does look good and is original. Just some food for thought.
Jim Buck
Member #1004
Member #1004
'nother idea
Hank,
It is possible to make your own pattern with careful measurement of the companionway itself. Start at the top with two small horizontal sticks (story sticks) each shorter than the opening but overlapping each other. Spread them out together so each stick is touching opposite sides and then mark the sticks in the middle with a pencil where they overlap. This will give you the exact distance between the upper part of the opening. Transfer this measurement to stock (scrap plywood?) or paper. Repeat the same process for the lower opening. Determine the height in the same manner (story sticks) on the sides of the companionway. Build a centerline where you split your top and bottom horizontal measurements with the vertical story stick measurement of the center. Keep the centerline square to the top and bottom measurements and your top and bottom measurements centered. Then strike a line between the top and bottom end lines. This will give you the angled pattern without the arc at the top. If you can remove the sliding hatch cover, you should be able to trace the curve of the hatch cover onto the top of your pattern. Better yet measure from the center of the companionway opening to the top of the underside of the hatch in the center and then draw an arc from the top of each side to the top of the centered hatch measure. When you have your completed pattern in place you should be able to mark from the inside where your tang will occur.
Better to be too wide or too high with a cut as it's difficult(!!!) to add on more wood. Making your first set of boards from pine or plywood then using those as a pattern to cut your teak might be the more prudent way of fabrication. More time, but less expense and aggravation.
Without the table saw, you could use a guide board clamped to the teak to make your horizontal cuts nice and straight; just requires you to be more careful with your setup for the angled cuts on the side. Again the plywood or pine intial attempt might be better.
Set the angle on your skilsaw and try it out on some scrap first; pine or whatever you have hanging around so you don't have to experiment on that expensive teak first. It's important to remember that the boards are wider with the bevel than the face measurement of the boards when they are in place. The bevel on each board adds to the width. Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
It is possible to make your own pattern with careful measurement of the companionway itself. Start at the top with two small horizontal sticks (story sticks) each shorter than the opening but overlapping each other. Spread them out together so each stick is touching opposite sides and then mark the sticks in the middle with a pencil where they overlap. This will give you the exact distance between the upper part of the opening. Transfer this measurement to stock (scrap plywood?) or paper. Repeat the same process for the lower opening. Determine the height in the same manner (story sticks) on the sides of the companionway. Build a centerline where you split your top and bottom horizontal measurements with the vertical story stick measurement of the center. Keep the centerline square to the top and bottom measurements and your top and bottom measurements centered. Then strike a line between the top and bottom end lines. This will give you the angled pattern without the arc at the top. If you can remove the sliding hatch cover, you should be able to trace the curve of the hatch cover onto the top of your pattern. Better yet measure from the center of the companionway opening to the top of the underside of the hatch in the center and then draw an arc from the top of each side to the top of the centered hatch measure. When you have your completed pattern in place you should be able to mark from the inside where your tang will occur.
Better to be too wide or too high with a cut as it's difficult(!!!) to add on more wood. Making your first set of boards from pine or plywood then using those as a pattern to cut your teak might be the more prudent way of fabrication. More time, but less expense and aggravation.
Without the table saw, you could use a guide board clamped to the teak to make your horizontal cuts nice and straight; just requires you to be more careful with your setup for the angled cuts on the side. Again the plywood or pine intial attempt might be better.
Set the angle on your skilsaw and try it out on some scrap first; pine or whatever you have hanging around so you don't have to experiment on that expensive teak first. It's important to remember that the boards are wider with the bevel than the face measurement of the boards when they are in place. The bevel on each board adds to the width. Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
Jim Buck
Member #1004
Member #1004
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Shannon Murphy
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sep 4th, '09, 13:07
- Location: Typhoon Weekender, Milford CT.
My boat partner made some beautiful new drop boards or companion doors for our typhoon. He added a very nice louvered panel in the middle board. This feature allows much better air circulation in the cabin. He used Mahagony rather than teak as it is much cheaper. (though not cheap by any means) He also, "ship-lapped" the door joints to keep water out. These things are the prettiest part of the whole boat by far.
Not sure if this link will work, but there are some pictures if it does.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/captshan/s ... 117162839/
Not sure if this link will work, but there are some pictures if it does.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/captshan/s ... 117162839/
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John Lesage
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mar 30th, '05, 17:53
- Location: U4rhea CD25 and relative partner of Ty Angela Marie now in Australia
[size=18]Currenting making a set on order[/size]
I am currently making a set to send to Australia. I expect them to be picked up by mid July. If you wish to jump in, send me an email and we'll work out the details. I have an original template from one of my previous Typhoons. I can also customize them if requested.