Has anyone re-powered a CD33 or 36? In February I acquired SOLITAIRE A CD36 hull #18, a boat I have wanted for a long time. The engine will need to be replaced within the next year or two, and I am looking for so input on the best way to go. Do I overhaul the engine or replace it? If I overhaul, how big of a task is it? If replace it is the way to go, which engine should I replace it with? I would appreciate any help or comments on this matter. This is a wonderful web site and I have enjoyed reading your questions and comments. Thanks and Hello from a new and proud Cape Dory owner.
rbaker3@tuelectric.com
Re-powering CD 36
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Re-powering CD 36
Congratulations Dub on your CD36 aquisition. They are a lot of boat for the money.Dub Baker wrote: Has anyone re-powered a CD33 or 36? In February I acquired SOLITAIRE A CD36 hull #18, a boat I have wanted for a long time. The engine will need to be replaced within the next year or two, and I am looking for so input on the best way to go. Do I overhaul the engine or replace it? If I overhaul, how big of a task is it? If replace it is the way to go, which engine should I replace it with? I would appreciate any help or comments on this matter. This is a wonderful web site and I have enjoyed reading your questions and comments. Thanks and Hello from a new and proud Cape Dory owner.
As for your engine question my personal choice would be Volvo for one reason......they are quiet and smooth running diesels and built like the proverbial S...house. I have a fresh water cooled Volvo in our CD30 and it has always run absolutely great and problem free. Parts can be expensive but I've never needed any. It's an '83. I had a different boat with a Yanmar 30 and it was very noisey and vibrated a lot, no comparison to the Volvo. Those are the only two I can speak of as far as ownership is concerned. Perhaps others can speak about their ownership experiences with Universal, Westerbeke, Perkins (good engines), Vetus, et al.
Re: Re-powering CD 36
Dub,
Congratulations on your new boat. You will not be sorry that you chose a CD-36. The compression on my Perkins 4.108 is beginning to fall and I have considered the questions that you are facing. Here are some of the issues.
The 4.108 has been out of production for a while. There are many around and parts are still available, but will they be in 10 years? A year or two ago I replaced the starter motor. As an emotional defense mechanism my mind has blocked the cost out, but I believe that a new starter was $650. The rebuild was on the order of $350. That was just for the part, not the installation. The rubber elbows on the end of the heat exchanger were something like $75 each. If they are available what will those parts cost in 10 years?
The 4.108s are notorious for leaking oil. Not the end of the world, but an annoyance. Bleeding the fuel system is a hassle compared to other engines.
On the reverse side of the coin, the 4.108s are very reliable engines. It has all of the power that you will need, and then some. If you buy another engine you may end up needing a new transmission and prop as well (more $). If you have a high output alternator it may not fit on your new engine(more $).
When you get quotes on the re-build make certain that the shop includes the cost of all new rubber components, a new heat exchanger (especially if you have the round style that sits across the back of the engine), new water pumps, a transmission re-build (clutch plates as a minimum), starter motor rebuild and new instruments. Also, if your engine mounting frame is rusted get the replacement cost for that included.
For the new engine, get the price for things such as the exhaust system changes, the new motor mounts, any alternator upgrades, and instrument panel changes. A prop can be re-pitched up to two inches if it has not already been adjusted. If you will need changes of more than that add another $300. Can the shop doing the upgrade engineer the changes in propeller pitch? If not there may be more than 1 new propeller in your future. If they do not ask for data on boat speed/rpm of the current installation then they are ignoring data that they could be using to avoid extra haul outs and propeller pitch changes.
Let us know how it goes when you get around to it. The information could be very valuble to the rest of the fleet.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
Congratulations on your new boat. You will not be sorry that you chose a CD-36. The compression on my Perkins 4.108 is beginning to fall and I have considered the questions that you are facing. Here are some of the issues.
The 4.108 has been out of production for a while. There are many around and parts are still available, but will they be in 10 years? A year or two ago I replaced the starter motor. As an emotional defense mechanism my mind has blocked the cost out, but I believe that a new starter was $650. The rebuild was on the order of $350. That was just for the part, not the installation. The rubber elbows on the end of the heat exchanger were something like $75 each. If they are available what will those parts cost in 10 years?
The 4.108s are notorious for leaking oil. Not the end of the world, but an annoyance. Bleeding the fuel system is a hassle compared to other engines.
On the reverse side of the coin, the 4.108s are very reliable engines. It has all of the power that you will need, and then some. If you buy another engine you may end up needing a new transmission and prop as well (more $). If you have a high output alternator it may not fit on your new engine(more $).
When you get quotes on the re-build make certain that the shop includes the cost of all new rubber components, a new heat exchanger (especially if you have the round style that sits across the back of the engine), new water pumps, a transmission re-build (clutch plates as a minimum), starter motor rebuild and new instruments. Also, if your engine mounting frame is rusted get the replacement cost for that included.
For the new engine, get the price for things such as the exhaust system changes, the new motor mounts, any alternator upgrades, and instrument panel changes. A prop can be re-pitched up to two inches if it has not already been adjusted. If you will need changes of more than that add another $300. Can the shop doing the upgrade engineer the changes in propeller pitch? If not there may be more than 1 new propeller in your future. If they do not ask for data on boat speed/rpm of the current installation then they are ignoring data that they could be using to avoid extra haul outs and propeller pitch changes.
Let us know how it goes when you get around to it. The information could be very valuble to the rest of the fleet.
Matt
Dub Baker wrote: Has anyone re-powered a CD33 or 36? In February I acquired SOLITAIRE A CD36 hull #18, a boat I have wanted for a long time. The engine will need to be replaced within the next year or two, and I am looking for so input on the best way to go. Do I overhaul the engine or replace it? If I overhaul, how big of a task is it? If replace it is the way to go, which engine should I replace it with? I would appreciate any help or comments on this matter. This is a wonderful web site and I have enjoyed reading your questions and comments. Thanks and Hello from a new and proud Cape Dory owner.
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net