teak eyebrow dimensions

[rodcapedory]

Looking for the dimensions of the teak eyebrow for a cd 330 . Is there a particular configuration to the eyebrow ie half round ?? Ours has a chocolate brown tape that is beginning to deteriorate.

thanks

Rod
GEMS cd 330

[tmsc]

I have a 33 and the eyebrow is half round or very similar. If you give me a few days I'll measure mine for you.

[rodcapedory]

TMSC

Thanks -- Will look forward to reply.

Rod
GEMS

[Russell]

I would be suprised if the 33 eyebrow was that much different from the 36, but who knows. On the 36 at least it is certainly not half round, its basicly squared with rounded edges, years of sandomg does take its toll though and it may appear closer to half round then what it once was.

[tartansailor]

Hi Rod,
My hatch covers are mahogany with similar trim. The trim is 3/8"
flat stock by 3/4" wide. The edges of the trim were rounded with
a 1/4" quarter round, round over bit.

I don't see 1/2 round on flat stock, but it would be appropriate on
a vertical edge.
Dick
[img]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/t ... 92-1-1.jpg[/img]

[Bob Ohler]

Dick, I just saw the photo of your hatch. I am assuming it is the outboard motor cover on your CD25. Nice work! It would make an excellent write-up for the Masthead Newsletter!

Bob O.

[Joe Myerson]

Dick:

I can't agree more with Bob's suggestion.

You'd even get special dispensation from the April 15 Masthead deadline!

--Joe Myerson, editor

[Matt Cawthorne]

the eyebrows are one of the most frustrating pieces of brightwork on my 36. It is all edges and bungs. There are spots where the countersinks might have been a little too deep and the screws have pulled through. There are spots where the countersink is a bit too shallow and the bung is only partly covering the screw. The eyebrow has been scraped and re-coated at least 4 times since I have owned the boat and it is smaller in cross section than the original from all of the scraping and sanding. The wood has become soft between the growth rings and varnish/cetol/Honeyteak all seem to have problems covering it without some sort of minute pinholes that eventually cause breakdown. Re-doing the eyebrows is on my list, but when I do it they will either be eliminated or they will be made of a larger cross section of wood. That will allow for better countersinking, thicker bungs, and more width to seal against the cabin top. I will also coat the entire piece with several coats of epoxy prior to installing it. This will eliminate the micro-porosity/cracking or whatever causes the surface breakdown. This will also cover the back side of the wood so that the edges of the varnish do not break down so quickly.

matt

[Cathy Monaghan]

The eyebrows on our CD32 are not half-round either.

By the way, when Bob Emmons owned his CD30 Red Wing, he replaced the old teak eyebrows on his boat with new ones made from synthetic teak decking material. I think he ripped it to size and probably routed it to shape. It looked nice, and it think that other than cleaning, it was probably relatively maintenance-free. You may want to contact Bob via email to find out more.

[Bob Ohler]

Eyebrows can be a pain to maintain, but it will change the look of the boat if you eliminate them. Compare an older CD27 to a newer one if you want to see what I mean.

On a previous Aloha Spirit, I temporarily removed the eyebrows to refinish them. I used a Forstner bit to re-drill the holes to accept the new plugs. I also made my own teak plugs using a plug cutter... 3/8" diameter I believe. By re-drilling these countersunk holes, I was able to correct the holes that had previously been too shallow to adequately hold the plugs (bungs) in place. I used a drill press for both the Forstner bit and the plug cutter, but it could be done with an electric hand drill if that is all you have. By using the drill press, I was able to ensure accuracy and the depth of the holes by setting the depth stop device.

Good luck with your eyebrow maintenance.

Bob O.

[Oswego John]

Hi Bob,

For shame, you plagiarized my mind.

Only kidding. I was planning to send in a post almost word for word with what you sent in.

If at all possible, try to use a drill press to ensure perfectly uniform screw holes, perfectly round, not too deep or not too shallow. Most drill presses have an adjustable stop to control the depth of the plug hole.

This might be a good time to mention a tip that I use. Some people use doweling stock cut to length for plugs. I usually cut my own plugs from the same stock as was used in the project.

With dowel stock, you cant widen the plug if necessary. Using plugs, the plug can be widened. A plug has tapered sides. If it bottoms out on the screw head, cut some meat off the bottom, narrower part of the plug and the remainder will increase in width for a better fit.

BTW: 3/8" is the size plug I usually work with. Other sizes are 1/4", 1/2", and 5/8".

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisear ... &Submit=Go

Click on picture fore detailed info.

Good luck with your project,
O J

[Ron M.]

I had 'eyebrows' on a previous boat and.........what a pain to maintain (that rhymes). Not worth the trouble for me. I've been using synthetic materials for many building projects the last few years and I think a good choice for this application.
The problem OJ, as I'm sure you know, when dowel stock is used for bungs the end grain is exposed. It is more durable in that xsection but it shrinks and xpands at a different rate than the surrounding material.
________
Rotary pickup

[rodcapedory]

Hi

Thanks for the thoughts and advice. I think we'll use the tape this year and save the woodwork replacement for winter.

Thanks again !!

Rod
GEMS
1986 330

[moctrams]

When I had Gabbiano's deck fixed, I had the eyebrows removed. Just too much trouble.

[Jeff and Sarah]

Has anyone removed their eyebrows, filled the screw holes, and replaced the wood with just epoxy? I doubt it's worth the effort unless you wood rot or water intrusion, but it seems like a lot of holes in the coachroof for not much of a reason.

Jeff