boom vang on cd36

Charlie palumbo · Post by **Charlie palumbo** » Mar 29th, '04, 15:49

Hello all, hope all are well,
Somehow, while decommissioning my vessel last year, I misplaced the boom vang on my cd36. For the love of me I can't find it. I honestely have used it sparingly but of course would like to replace it. Any suggestions on a replacement?

Thanks,
Charlie cd36 N.Y.

jcp 1347j@aol.com

Rich Abato · Post by **Rich Abato** » Mar 29th, '04, 20:18

<body background="http://home.earthlink.net/~mlabato/backgrounds/agua.jpg">
I think Garhauer is one of the better values around. Harken has some nice stuff but you will pay a bit more and build out of parts. Rigging Only has pre-configured Schaefer vangs <a href="http://www.riggingonly.com/" TARGET=_blank> Rigging Only Site</a>

Garhauer
bottomscraperNOSPAMHERE@earthlink.net

Patrick Turner · Post by **Patrick Turner** » Mar 30th, '04, 09:18

If you plan on staying with a standard 4:1 soft boom vang I would recommend doubleing the purchase power. It's not difficult to do and really does make a difference. I can try and post a photo if you're interested, but essentially it works like this -

The standard boom vang is secured at the base of the mast as is normal, but rather then attach directly to the boom it is spliced to a line (spectra) which is then lead through a small block attached to the spot where you normally would dead-end the boom vang. That line is then lead back to the base of the mast and secured. The running end of the boom vang is at the mast end of the rig and in my case is lead aft to the starboard side of the cockpit, but doesn't have to be.

Pat
Salt Shaker
CD36

patrick.t@comcast.net

Jim_B · Post by **Jim_B** » Mar 9th, '10, 22:20

What is the best way to install a 'soft' vang on a CD36?

The mainsheet goes up from the deck to the bottom of the boom about a foot aft of the mast. The sheet will cross over the vang.

Do I need to re-route the mainsheet? How have others done this? Thanks

Len · Post by **Len** » Mar 10th, '10, 14:15

If you decide to increase the purchase on the vang (beyond 4;1) be sure to connect it using a strong fixture. Bails are the strongest as they require a thru bolt . You may want to avoid thru bolting the mast end in which case you need to find a mast fitting that uses multiple screws and treading the mast holes. Spinlock used to sell a sturdy aluminum swivel block with eight screws. Other venders probably have similar fittings. Get (or make) a vang with a snap shackle fitting on the mast end so that it can quickly be diverted to a strongpoint on the deck as a preventer.

Jim_B · Post by **Jim_B** » Mar 10th, '10, 20:19

Yes I agree a thru bolted bail on the mast and the boom is my planned approach.

My question is how to keep the mainsheet and the vang from crossing each other?

My mainsheet runs forward along the cabin top to a block 12" aft the mast then up to a block mounted on a boom bail and then back to a series of blocks that spread the boom load down to the traveler (I think this is the factory setup).

The issue is a boom vang will cross over the verticle run of the mainsheet. Ideally the mainsheet would run inside the vang bail but this would require re-routing the existing line and additional holes in the deck/boom.

Is this problem unique to my set up and if not how have others routed their vangs? Thanks

Greg Kozlowski · Post by **Greg Kozlowski** » Mar 10th, '10, 23:37

Over the past ten years, we've sailed our CD36 from NY to South America to Turkey without a boom vang and have not missed it.

More importantly, rig a jibe preventor/boom brake and don't leave the dock without having it set up.

Best regards,

Greg Kozlowski

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Mar 11th, '10, 09:12

Greg, how far back on the boom is the attachment point for your preventer? Do you have dedicated pad eyes and then run aft to a winch?

I do have a bail on the end of my boom for lifting and to rig a preventer. I also move my vang to a stanchion base sometimes but I worry about the loads in higher winds with that arrangement.

I have seen a preventer rigged mid boom that runs to pad eyes on both sides then back to secondary winches where the crew can control the swing of the boom completely.

There are several ways to skin the ole feline, Steve.

Greg Kozlowski · Post by **Greg Kozlowski** » Mar 11th, '10, 22:04

Hi Steve,

Many ways to do it for sure... from commercially available units to simple rope at the end of the boom run forward and back to the cockpit. However one does it, a preventer IMHO is a necessary piece of gear that should be rigged and ready to use at all times.

Ours is a homemade job. rigged just forward of the mainsheeting attachment point on the boom. the lines run port and starbpoard thru heavy duty mid-ship cleats and back to secondary winches in the cockpit. The preventer itself is made of 5/8 line and heavy duty rubber strapps which act as shock absorbers in the event of an acidental jibe or for the purpose of doing a controlled jibe.

I have no doubt that we would have busted our rig or taken out a shroud on several occassions had we not had the preventer rigged.

Greg

drb9 · Post by **drb9** » Mar 11th, '10, 23:05

I have a 26, and a boom vang. What's the difference between rigging a preventer and attaching the bottom end of the vang (the one that usually attaches to the bale on the mast) to a fixture on the deck on whatever side the boom is on?

Greg Kozlowski · Post by **Greg Kozlowski** » Mar 11th, '10, 23:27

On a bigger boat, like the CD36, you'd want the preventer as far back as possible along the boom, preferably at least to the spot where the mainsheet attachment is located. I'm not an engineer, but I'd be worried that the stress on the boom during an acidental jibe might just be great enough to break it if the preventer is attached as far forward as a vang.

The other point is that you want two characterisitics in your preventer/brake. One is elasticity to prevent shock loading. This can be accomplished by either buying a commercial boombrake or by rigging elasticity into the system like I have done with heavy duty rubber straps, for example. Also, ideally for it to be a practical system, you really want to have control of the brake/preventer from both sides and at all times accessible at a moments notice from the cockpit. Neither of these characteristics is possible with a vang temporarily rigged as a preventer.

Greg

Len · Post by **Len** » Mar 12th, '10, 16:52

I've heard different opinions about the stress placed on the boom depending on how far outboard of the mast the preventer is attached. I would like to hear from some of our engineers about the actual amount of pressure / stress on the boom when a preventer is placed middle of the boom versus the end or in between (assuming that the sail extends al the way to the end of the boom).

Parfait's Provider · Post by **Parfait's Provider** » Mar 12th, '10, 17:20

I might be an engineer, but I am not a naval architect.

How much pressure is dependent on two factors: the wind load and the distance from the pivot point, in this case, the mast.

For the sake of discussion, assume the load at the center of effort on the boom is 100#. If the center of effort is 10 feet from the mast and you fix a preventer there, the force necessary, perpendicular to the boom, is 100#. If you move the preventer to 5 ft. from the mast, the force necessary is 200#; at 2.5 ft. it is 500#; at 1.25 ft it is 1000#. Fortunately, you can also move out the boom to 20 ft. where the force will be 50#.

Think big and heavy if you put the preventer or vang close to the mast. Also think about bending the boom, an expensive problem.

Jim_B · Post by **Jim_B** » Mar 12th, '10, 17:45

I'm interested in correctly installing a VANG because it will pull the boom down and keep the mainsail flat.

I have found that (especially on reaches) the boom has a tendency to lift - even if the traveller is left to leeward. It seems to me a preventer is to minimze the consequences of an unintened jibes (or to help control a jibe).

So any recommendations on how to install a vang on a CD36 so that the vang and the mainsheet do not inter-twine? Thanks

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Mar 12th, '10, 17:51

Again, Ken is correct.

The farther the distance you go out on the boom, the less effort is placed on the preventer. However, there is no free lunch.

Using the same set of blocks whether the preventer is five feet from the mast or ten feet out toward the end of the boom, you will have to use twice the length of reeving line ten feet out than that when at five feet away from the mast..

It will be easier to haul in the preventer when placed out toward the end of the boom but you will be hauling and furling twice the amount of line.

Another thing to remember, if the preventer is placed too close to the mast, the boom acts like a long lever which can exert tremendous force on the preventer and its associated components and anchors.

Are we having fun yet?

O J

The Cape Dory Board

boom vang on cd36

boom vang on cd36

Re: boom vang on cd36

Re: boom vang on cd36

Installing Boom Vang

Vangs

Bail is the way to go

Don't bother with a vang

Preventer

preventer versus vang?

A couple of differences

preventers and boom stress

PRESSURE

Preventer vs Vang

Preventer