Seacocks
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
- Posts: 202
- Joined: May 13th, '05, 09:43
- Location: CD 27 1982
sea cocks
I know the price of the spartans is high but there are three things you don't look for a bargain for
1. Brain surgery
2. Brake Jobs
3. Seacocks.
the spartans on my cd 27 have lasted 20+ yrs and I have had a problem with one. It deformed during a layup in the winter..and I was able to relap it with the help of Spartan customer service..I dont like plastic it can crack and the handles are suspect.
The picture shown on a prior list shows a ss insert or valve body ..that will lent itself to electrolysist corrosion .
In my book the extra dollars is well worth it....
1. Brain surgery
2. Brake Jobs
3. Seacocks.
the spartans on my cd 27 have lasted 20+ yrs and I have had a problem with one. It deformed during a layup in the winter..and I was able to relap it with the help of Spartan customer service..I dont like plastic it can crack and the handles are suspect.
The picture shown on a prior list shows a ss insert or valve body ..that will lent itself to electrolysist corrosion .
In my book the extra dollars is well worth it....
none
-
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Feb 8th, '06, 18:30
- Location: Canadian Sailcraft 36T
Re: Full Flow seacocks and valves
Yes the valve in that second photo is a full flow valve. The ball opening is matching the pipe ID not the OD or threads. A non full flow valve would have a considerably smaller ball ID. Most UL Marine rated bronze or stainless BV's above 3/4" are full flow though you can still find some that are not.Tom in Cambria wrote:Unless I missed it no one explained what a "full flow" valve is. If you're working with an inch and a half valve or seacock full flow means that when the valve is open the opening is a full inch and a half all the way through. You can see this in the second picture where the outside dimension is much larger that the actual bore in the ball.
Good catch on that question not getting answered!
-
- Posts: 1470
- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
Jim Walsh
I sent you a PM, but I have no way of knowing if that worked correctly. it sometimes doesn't. You can email me if you want.
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott
-
- Posts: 202
- Joined: May 13th, '05, 09:43
- Location: CD 27 1982
valve
I had a terrible time reattaching the 3/4 hose to the seacock.even if I heated it with hot water it woudl collapse as I tried to shove it o the fitting. Spartan said you need a special tool that heats and exp[ands the hose..
I would up using cheap heater hose.
I would up using cheap heater hose.
none
-
- Posts: 1470
- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
hose barb craziness
Marv,
That's typical. Ridiculous, but typical. I recently bought an expensive SS adapter to reduce from 3/4 to 5/8 for my air conditioning system. When it arrived, I was disappointed to find that 5/8" hose would not fit on the (nominally) 5/8" barb. I mic'd the 5/8" barbs at 740 thousandths, lacking a miniscule amount being 3/4. So..., 3/4 hose would slide on the 5/8 fitting, but without ridiculous heroics, a 5/8" hose would not. I called the manufacturer to ask why they made a "5/8" fitting" that's really a 3/4" fitting. They said this is how it's done. Apparently there's no standard when it comes to hose barb dimensions. I have 3/4" barbs that measure 765 thousandths, and others that measure 875 thousandths, and several in belween. It's not too difficult to slide the 3/4" hose on the smaller ones, but it's practically impossible to slide it on the largest ones...., because what really fits those is actually 7/8. Yes, it's confusing and unreasonable. One very reasonable option is to take the fittings to a machine shop and have the diameter cut down to a reasonable dimension, usually about 25 or 30 thousandths bigger than the ID of the hose. Obviously you have to make sure the fitting doesn't get too thin. Have fun!
That's typical. Ridiculous, but typical. I recently bought an expensive SS adapter to reduce from 3/4 to 5/8 for my air conditioning system. When it arrived, I was disappointed to find that 5/8" hose would not fit on the (nominally) 5/8" barb. I mic'd the 5/8" barbs at 740 thousandths, lacking a miniscule amount being 3/4. So..., 3/4 hose would slide on the 5/8 fitting, but without ridiculous heroics, a 5/8" hose would not. I called the manufacturer to ask why they made a "5/8" fitting" that's really a 3/4" fitting. They said this is how it's done. Apparently there's no standard when it comes to hose barb dimensions. I have 3/4" barbs that measure 765 thousandths, and others that measure 875 thousandths, and several in belween. It's not too difficult to slide the 3/4" hose on the smaller ones, but it's practically impossible to slide it on the largest ones...., because what really fits those is actually 7/8. Yes, it's confusing and unreasonable. One very reasonable option is to take the fittings to a machine shop and have the diameter cut down to a reasonable dimension, usually about 25 or 30 thousandths bigger than the ID of the hose. Obviously you have to make sure the fitting doesn't get too thin. Have fun!
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott
-
- Posts: 202
- Joined: May 13th, '05, 09:43
- Location: CD 27 1982
hosed
The manufacturer said the hose barb in intentionally larger than the hose so that it will never fall off..and needs a special tool to assemble.
none