Typhoon I hope to restore next Spring_see pictures at flickr

[stollie]

Hi everybody,

I've recently posted pictures of boat I'd like to fix up on Flickr's website, and would be most appreciative of all comments posted back here on the CD board.

Pix are at http://www.flickr.com/photos/stollie5446/ and for anyone who hasn't used flickr, one first has to have a free yahoo account (www.yahoo.com), and signup for this is super quick and easy. I did it in about a minute.

My apologies if I'm unintentionally committing an infraction by posting this twice, but I was concerned that the first posting, buried within my original query, might be missed by many of the members.

Thanks for all your comments,

[Oswego John]

Hi stollie,

Congratulations on the new (to you) Ty. Yes , many of us have read your first post and have seen your fine pics. She looks like a beauty.

Markst 95 has a keen eye. His advice is right on target. I feel that you are venturing into a new world of sailing and have a bright, hopeful spirit that breeds success.

Good luck with all your progress. Keep us advised. The board members are gluttonous for photos.

O J

[Steve Laume]

Looking at the pictures I noticed a couple of things.

The first is that you might want to raise the spreaders a bit so they bisect the angle of the shrouds.

The second is that the TY you are looking at has the bolt in knees inside of the cabin. These seem like they were an add on to the later TYs to help out with the cabin top compression. They are a very good thing and may save you the trouble of a compression post.

Overall it looks like a very easily restored Typhoon.

Buy that baby and get to work, Steve.

[sloopjohnl]

the tangs mounted on the mast to which the spreaders are then attached seem to be bowed out a bit. mine were like that also when i purchased my ty. if the shroud end of the spreader is tightly attached to the shroud wire but is not perpendicular when the mast is raised the resulting tension can pry the tang away from the mast. make sure the shroud wire floats freely in the end of the spreader. i would recommend spreader boots to replace the black tape. i generally detach my spreaders from the mast tangs when i winterize and hang a treated canvas tarp over the mast forming a tent for the boat.

this looks like a late 70's ty that's in good shape for being neglected, but welcoming a bit of tlc from you as it's new owner. other than the interior (fortunately mine was pretty spotless), it looks a lot like mine did in 1990.

[JBA]

Hi Stollie and all,

This spreader/tang component looks different from mine, or perhaps my perception of the photo 010370 is off. My spreaders fit over male studs that are welded(?) to the mast. The tangs for the lowers are still where the photos show them, but the spreaders are independent of the tangs. My mast is out so I can check the next time I go.
JBA

[stollie]

Wow, you guys, I'm feeling more and more empowered with each reply that I read. And thanks for the encouraging words, they mean a lot; OJ's especially struck a chord.

I can hardly wait for the owner to get title, so we can start talking turkey. He says Spring, but I'm wondering if I should push for sooner, as the boat looks to be spending another winter exposed to the elements. At the very least, I hope I can get him to cover it up with a couple of tarps.

Anybody have a ballpark figure of how much it's likely to cost me to make the boat shipshape?

[Dick Villamil]

Buy her right now - therefore you can prepare the boat properly for the winter. Remove water, cover completely but let it ventilate at each end of the cover. Drop the mast and use as a ridge pole with supports fore, aft and a crutch in the center. This allows you to inventory the repairs before winter and look for supplies and parts during the mid-winter and pre-season sales. I would also consider making a new teak block for around the rudder post (or repairing the existing one) over the winter. If the cover is water tight- leave a hatch board off (or make one with screens in it) to allow the inside to dry out over the winter. A lot of drying can take place since the blue poly tarps absorb heat and can actually raise the inside temp to allow drying to take place! DONT WAIT - get started now! Good Luck, can't wait to see the progress reports!

[sloopjohnl]

if you have the motor mount, sails that are in decent condition, and your interior cushions cleanup well your expenses to get on the water with a good looking boat will be minimal. a couple new seacocks, hoses, oil/varnish/cetol for the wood, bottom paint and maybe some running rigging and new fittings will top the materials list. i would guess 500 to 750.00 would go a long way. count on lots of hours to refurbish. now if you need a motor mount, a motor, sails, running rigging , any standing rigging, numerous stainless steel fittings, then it's best to make a list for cost to adjust your offering price. one item that really picks the ty up a notch is replaceing the chrome/plastic portlights with bronze ports.

[Markst95]

Yea the bronze ports definitely do make the boat look much better.

[Steve Laume]

I had a TY with those plastic ports in pretty bad shape. As much as I love bronze hardware, I couldn't see replacing those ports. I had far more time than money so I painted then with bronze paint and cut new plexiglass for them.

They looked great and held up well. I had a bunch more money in my pocket for other stuff, Steve.

[stollie]

Those bronze ports ARE classy lookin.' They're already on my list.

[Lang]

Looking at the pictures I noticed a couple of things.

The first is that you might want to raise the spreaders a bit so they bisect the angle of the shrouds.

The second is that the TY you are looking at has the bolt in knees inside of the cabin. These seem like they were an add on to the later TYs to help out with the cabin top compression. They are a very good thing and may save you the trouble of a compression post.

Overall it looks like a very easily restored Typhoon.

Buy that baby and get to work, Steve.

Congrats. And I want to add to this comment. I had that problem with the droopy spreaders before. No matter how much I try to lock in a better angle, it just wouldnt stay that way. Finally, I took down the mast and swap the spreader bases. After that the spreaders looks right and feels right! I cant imagin who it was that mounted them wrong!

I documented some of my modifications of S/V Eleanor on my blog, check it out if you are interested. http://funvinyldecals.wordpress.com/sv-eleanor/
Good luck!

[stollie]

is that with a bilge full of water, the outside hull shows no damp/wet spots. I hope this means the bilge water hasn't (yet) done too much damage, I won't necessarily have to drill holes in the hull to let out water (I'm leery at that prospect), and that if I do the following, I MAY be good to go.

1. siphon out the bilge.
2. cover boat to keep water from getting in from deck or cabin.
3. fix leak areas to keep water from getting below: deck-to-hull joint, deck hardware, mast step, portholes, tiller post, cockpit lockers, scuppers, hoses, thru-hull fitting.

I noticed that water tends to sit at the mid portion of the deck (see photos PB04, PB05, PB07, PB010385 ....I don't know what this area is called); is there a fix for this? Drill some horizontal holes into the toerails, with a slight downward tilt?

Unfortunately, last weekend's attempts to find the yard's owner were futile, so I made no progress towards acquiring the boat, a big frustration.

[Dick Villamil]

Before I bought My Typhoon it also had water sitting on the deck until I discovered that there had been several 1/4" holes that were drilled through the toe rail. After unpolugging them the water drained off the deck - depending on how it sat ion the cradle and now on the trailer. I would wait until you launch, then after the boat is rigged with or without a motor and after all gear is on board, pour water on the deck and find where it is deepest - then drill the hole there. I would also drill holes fore and aft of that spot a few inches in case the main hole (scupper) gets plugged from debris such as cobwebs, leaves or in my case, pine needles. I would pour a quart of either the -50 or -100 RV antifreeze into the bilge until you make the deck water tight. I never get water into the bilge after all fittings topside were caulked. I suspect the crack in the tiller block and possibly mast step and leaky cockpit drains are the main culprits.

[stollie]

Thanks again, Dick.

Just a quart of -100 antifreeze, eh? I was gonna go down there this weekend and pour 2 gallons in there. Either HAR-HAR or WHEW! Thanks for anticipating me again.

I'm sure you're right about where the water's getting in. Also, the deck-to-hull looks compromised (see photo PB10349 as an example). And the scupper hoses are clogged, so I have to figure out how to blow out all that leaf compost so the cockpit doesn't suffer further damage. Ideas?

Is it wise of me to forget about scraping/painting bottom until after the first haul out, to see if she comes out with blisters?

PS: in my readings, I came across what I think is your post #135 (last August), where you were addressing your solution to weeping hull. I'm hoping I don't have to do that.