bob stay anchor

[Hud Smith]

We have an pretty bad bow roller, which allows the anchor rode to slip off it to one side or the other. I suppose we'll have to replace it, but, it raised a question.
In order to secure the anchor through one of the chocks on the bow, and not have the bobstay saw through the line, would it be possible to put a snatch block -somehow attached- to the bottom fastening of the bobstay?
Do you think that fastening would take the load???
If the anchor rode was led from that bottom fitting up through the chock, then to a cleat, there would be no sawing, and the top elevation of the rode would be about 3 feet lower than it is now.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Hud

[johnny of STORK]

I use a piece of 3/4" PVC tubing over nearly the whole length of the bobstay, which allows the anchor rode to roll around the bobstay wherever it wants.

Johnny

[Steve Laume]

I have handled this situations two ways.

Until this past season I had the usual section of chain and then a nylon rode. The procedure was to let out the proper amount of scope and then throw a rolling hitch on the anchor line with about a 20 FT piece of 1/2" nylon. This was then lead through one chock and cleated. I then lead the anchor rode through the other chock and let out enough line to center the connection then cleated the anchor rode. This serves to keep the boat form searching quite as much and also keeps the rode off the bob stay.

This year I put on 90FT of chain. So things are slightly different. I also replaced the lower bob stay pin with a big honkin shackle with a safety wired pin. Although not terribly yachty looking I keep a length of three strand with an eye splice tied to the shackle with a larks head.

I now let out the amount of scope I want and either hook a chain hook to the anchor rode or tie in a rolling hitch while the rode is still in the anchor roller. Let a bit more out until the line to the shackle takes the strain and I am set. I also secure the rode on deck as a back up.

With this system there is very little searching. No risk of chafe. Less scope required and it is pretty simple to deploy.

Changing the bow roller was a big improvement too, Steve.

[Hud Smith]

Thanks Steve, that's what I was looking for
Hud

[sharkbait]

Sounds great but I would question if the bolts securing the bobstay are adequate to support the stresses of an anchor. The stress applied to the bobstay are quite different and in a entirely different direction to the stresses applied by an anchor. I would suggest a stainless steel harp over the bow roller to control the anchor line. Make it large enough to allow the shank of the anchor to pass for stowage.

[Steve Laume]

Sounds great but I would question if the bolts securing the bobstay are adequate to support the stresses of an anchor. The stress applied to the bobstay are quite different and in a entirely different direction to the stresses applied by an anchor.

The nice thing about having the bob stay and the anchor loading in entirely different directions is that the loads tend to cancel each other out. These opposing loads reduce the stress on the bolts while anchoring. This takes away a good portion of the shear loading.

The anchor loading can be slightly out of line with the fitting but I have little doubt that those bolts are strong enough. Please don't take my word for this and if you are really worried about the strains involved or rather the consequences of loosing the bob stay you could bolt in a dedicated anchoring eye.

I might change out those bolts this winter for fresh ones, Steve.

[SeaBelle]

I don't like to put load on the roller's platform so I too used a rolling hitch on the rode and then through the chock and onto the cleat. Now I often create some slack on the rode, grab it a few feet forward of the roller, bring it through the chock and cleat it off.