CD30 Cabinet Mounting Method in Galley?

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Jul 14th, '09, 13:07

I am working on small cabinet with three shelves (approx. 18 x 18) to hold small items in the galley. We have designed this to fit inside the companionway, port side, above the ice box (on our CD30B). Has anyone tried mounting items such as this to liner on the bulkhead? I checked the archives and Catherine suggested glueing or epoxying blocks to the liner, then screwing to these. Anyone else out there with experience on this?

Bob Ohler
CD30B
sv Aloha Spirit
CDSOA Member #188

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Jul 14th, '09, 18:13

Bob,
The screw holes in my liner that held the screws for my battery switch enlarged to a point of uselessness. I further enlarged the holes and installed threaded inserts. Now I have serious fastening.

You could further reinforce the liner by epoxying a wooden backer plate before drilling for the inserts. Your cabinet would hide the hole for the backer.
I bought the brass inserts from Woodcraft.

Dick

Judith · Post by **Judith** » Jul 14th, '09, 19:06

We are looking to install a spice rack, small corkboard, etc at available spots on the liner, right around the galley.

Backer blocks make sense but. . .behind the liner or on the visible surface? Glued? Hollow-wall anchors, toggle-bolts, or what?

As usual, this seems to be hitting on exactly the sort of information I'd love to hear about.

Judith

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Jul 15th, '09, 10:32

Backing blocks are great, if you can get your hands in there. I've had good luck attaching backing on the interior with screws and adhesive caulk,(polyurethane - 4200 or the like). Screws initial purchase is good into the fiberglass liner.......you have to be sure not to drill too large a hole, a bit the size of the screws shaft works best. The threads then have plenty to grab. Of course the more times you remove it the less effective the purchase, so be sure where you want to locate.
Stainless ' T ' nuts are also effective. Not the ones with spurs, (for wood).
The type with small holes in the flange for fasteners, I use small screws, #4 X 1/2". Mini machine screws could also be used if you have access. A dab of caulk,or polyurethane glue aids in holding them securely. You can then fasten your object with machine screws.
________
ALDO COSTA

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Jul 15th, '09, 11:35

(My Dad had a Tartan 27)
I found the threaded inserts at the local Ace hardware store. I am using the ones that accept the 8-32 screws. I think I will use these along with marine sealant or caulk going into the vertical fiberglass liner. I like this idea. I am also going to glue blocks into the frame of the cabinet, then run the 8-32 machine screws through the blocks, and then into the threaded inserts.
Is this consitent with what you did?

Thanks,

Bob O.
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B
sv Aloha Spirit

Judith · Post by **Judith** » Jul 15th, '09, 11:45

Thanks, Ron. Those all sound like good options.

Bob, let us know (see?) how the inserts work out.

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Jul 15th, '09, 15:41

Bob,
That should hold substantial weight.

Dick

sfreihofer · Post by **sfreihofer** » Jul 15th, '09, 21:48

John;

I used threaded rivets to secure my electrical panel to the fiberglass electrical box. I have not been able to test the longevity under sea conditions, since I have not yet launched, but I can say that they went in very easily and seem very secure. I foresee no problems, unless corrosion is an issue by using stainless steel machine screws in the aluminum rivets. Tef-gel (or similar corrosion prevention) would be wise.

Personally, I think it is a good option in certain situations. They seem as firm as standard pop rivets, but provide removeability (is that a word?)

Stan Freihofer
1981 CD25 #794
Ft. Lauderdale
www.ReefRoof.com

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Jul 17th, '09, 08:07

I like the threaded rivet idea. Can you purchase a threaded rivet that can be installed with a standard pop rivet gun? If possible, I was hoping to avoid having to purchase a specialized, threaded rivet gun. I thought I had once seen pop rivets with female threads, but I may have dreamt that. I have looked in the local hardware stores and on the net, and I have not been able to find these so far.

Thanks,

Bob Ohler
CD30B
sv Aloha Spirit
CDSOA Member #188

marka · Post by **marka** » Jul 17th, '09, 16:26

last year I mounted a small weems & plath lantern to the aft cabin "bulkhead". My procedure was to cut a wooden backer block with a 1 1/2 in. hole saw. I then used the same hole saw to cut a 1 1/2 in. hole in the liner. When doing this you need to make sure the pilot bit will not touch the inner cabin surface (behind the liner).

I then used acetone to clean the cabin surface and mounted the backer block to the cabin, flush to the liner (used small wedges to hold it in place until epoxy set) . The lantern mounting bracket then screwed directly to the mounting block.

I'll use this methid again for any other mounting needs in the cabin.

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Aug 5th, '09, 13:39

My new Plan A is to use my threaded rivet gun and the 10-32 rivets that just arrived from McMaster Carr. If all the rivets work like my test rivet did in a piece of luan plywood, I may really have something!
Stay tuned!

Bob O.

Shipscarver · Post by **Shipscarver** » Aug 9th, '09, 18:57

Hey Bob - have you had an opportunity to try the New Plan A? How did it work out? If it went favorably please detail the ordering info. I want to put a cork message board on the liner, between the portlights above the seatee and this may be the solution to my problem.

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Aug 9th, '09, 19:37

Shipscarver, within a few days I will be taking the cabinet to the boat and trying a "test mount." I promise to keep this board updated, and I'll even try to learn how to post photos of my project.

Thanks,

Bob Ohler
CDSOA Member #188

sv Aloha Spirit
CD30

Shipscarver · Post by **Shipscarver** » Aug 10th, '09, 09:57

BRAVO!

Bob Ohler · Post by **Bob Ohler** » Aug 24th, '09, 07:28

To anyone interested...

I drilled and installed ten 10-32 threaded rivets yesterday. I used both the rivets and rivet tool available from McMaster Carr. I cannot tell you how pleased I was with the installation. These rivets can best thought of as a cross between an old fashioned Molly Bolt and a Pop Rivet.

One important point I will make here... The location of the rivets must line-up with the holes in he object you are hanging. I created a template to transfer the hole locations and the installation went perfectly. I used 10-32 x 1.5" stainless steel pan head machine screws to secure the cabinet to the rivets.

It went so well in fact, that even though yesterday was supposed to be a "test-fit," after I hung the cabinet, I decided to leave it up and I will hang the cabinet door with cabinet on the bulkhead.

The cabinet is very snug against the bulkhead / hull liner, and the attachment appears to be very strong.

I would not hesitate to use this system where I need a strong attachment to a surface that has a void behind the surface to which I am fastening to. I am thinking about my chart storage rack project in the quarter berth as the next application for these fasteners.

I'll try to remember my camera next trip to the boat.

Bob O.
CDSOA Member #188
CD30
sv Aloha Spirit

The Cape Dory Board

CD30 Cabinet Mounting Method in Galley?

CD30 Cabinet Mounting Method in Galley?

Threaded Inserts

Fantastic timing

Tartan Sailor - I am going to try the inserts!

Bob, Yes

Re: CD30 Cabinet Mounting Method in Galley?

Can you buy threaded Pop Rivets?

Threaded Rivets!

Threaded pop rivets

Reply to Shipscarver

Update and Photo

Threaded Rivets!