new coamings

JBA · Post by **JBA** » Jul 27th, '09, 17:25

Hello,

My Typhoon coamings are in dreadful condition, so I am considering having new ones made. I do not have any carpentry skills, so I am looking for a marine carpenter in the Baltimore-Annapolis area. I will not be using teak, but that is a totally different discussion.
How does lamination apply to such a project? Would I be able to use the current coamings for a base to the lamination?
I hope to have some kind of solution by May, 2010.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

JBA

Jeff D · Post by **Jeff D** » Jul 28th, '09, 07:01

I have made new coamings on two different occasions. They are really pretty easy to make especially if you have the old ones to use as a pattern. The most difficult part is removal of the coamings from the boat in one piece and removal of the returns. Other than that, this requires little in the way of carpentry. I made a set for my Typhoon Daysailer last winter and invested a total of ~4 hours to make them, and another 2+ hours to install. If you are paying someone, this is probably more than $500. The 9" wide teak for my Daysailer cost less than $300. Why would you use anything other than teak? I think that any savings from the use of another wood is going to be lost when it comes time to sell.

marka · Post by **marka** » Jul 30th, '09, 10:53

I made a new set for our '27 a couple of years ago. I used white oak. In the context of woodworking the term "laminating" has two meanings:

1. Glueing together thin sheets to make a thicker piece of stock.

2. Edge gluing narrow boards to make a wide board.

If you're talking to carpenters and they refer to "laminating", chances are they are referring to #2.

Jeff D · Post by **Jeff D** » Jul 30th, '09, 13:35

Sorry if I missed the original point.

My coamings are single pieces of teak, unlaminated in any dimension.

After shaping the coamings, I let them sit in my basement supported only at the ends. I placed a 50 pound weight in the middle to induce a nice bow. While the bow did not match the original, it was close enough that I could pull it in the rest of the way during installation with a few well placed clamps.

Kevin Kaldenbach · Post by **Kevin Kaldenbach** » Jul 30th, '09, 14:53

I just had a friend, a cabinet maker, re do all of the toe rails, rub rails, sprit and a few other pieces on my CD 31. Now some of you can cover your ears, I did not use teak. Sometimes the price of something is not worth paying. You can see pictures of the installation at my web site kaldenbach.us He did mention he enjoyed doing it and I bet he could give you a quote. Shipping prices are not so bad that it is prohibitive to do this way. If you would like I will ask him if I can give out his e-mail address.

sfreihofer · Post by **sfreihofer** » Jul 30th, '09, 21:58

Can anyone tell me the thickness of the coamings on a CD25? The original coamings are too worn to allow me to accurately determine the thickness. Obviously the thicker the plank, the harder to bend... so I'd like to know what thickness Cape Dory found to be adequate.

The original coamings are a single piece of teak. Toward the aft end, where the coaming exits the cockpit and continues onto the stern, there is a curious plug of a different wood, about 3 inches long, inserted in a hole drilled upward from the bottom edge. I have not been able to determine the reason why this plug was installed, but I'm thinking it is to make bending easier. Does anyone know what I'm describing and why it's there?

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Jul 30th, '09, 23:13

I believe the plug you found was a very good attempt to repair a split combing. I say it was very good because you only noticed the plug, Steve.

sfreihofer · Post by **sfreihofer** » Jul 30th, '09, 23:48

Thanks Steve;

There are plugs in both coamings, in exactly the same location. It does not appear to be a repair. Another curious thing about the plugs is that they are not simply a dowel... they are tapered.

Maybe I should take a photo to share. I really can't figure out why they were included...?

Stan Freihofer
1981 CD25 #794
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
www.ReefRoof.com

Jeff D · Post by **Jeff D** » Jul 31st, '09, 05:29

There were plugs in the aft end of the original coamings on my Typhoon. I believe that they were factory originals to minimize splitting. The plugs are roughly 9/16 - I would find it difficult to believe that any PO could have drilled a hole that accurately.

On my Typhoon I used 3/4 teak and it bent with little effort. On a CD22 for which I also made new coamings I thought that thicker would be better so I used 1". It was very difficult to bend. I would stick with 3/4.

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Jul 31st, '09, 07:12

My original, 1977 combings were down to 5/8" when I replaced them a few years ago. I used 4/4 Burmese teak which finished out at 7/8", I wanted them to be robust, and they are. I had little trouble bending them into place using a couple of 2X3 spring jacks. Instead of the sheetmetal screws I used machine screws/fender washers /ny-locs.
I know combings on a Ty are much less in length but you should be able to ' bend ' them with some leverage and patience.
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tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Jul 31st, '09, 07:28

I wish to replace my combings with African Mahogany next winter, but in the mean time here is a shot of a split repair in progress.

[img]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j19/t ... 0_0152.jpg[/img]

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Jul 31st, '09, 08:31

The old butterfly, a good choice that won't be seen on the finished side.
Nice job.
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