St. Angelo is stating they are no longer doing mouldings for the Cape dory line. Does anyone have any other suggestions for replacement mouldings for the toerail and rubrail on a Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender. I have approximately 6 ft of storm damage to starboard rail that I need to replace this year.
celtic@skyhigh.com
Toerail & Rubrail replacement on Typhoon Weekender
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Duncan Maio
Re: Toerail & Rubrail replacement on Typhoon Weekender
Tom:
Cut off a piece of the damaged rail so that you have a clean "slice." Any millwork shop can use that as a pattern to make new toe and rub rails for you. Given all the sanding that has happened over the years, the original shape is probably not much of an issue. In fact, you may want to make patterns for both ends of the repair area, so that the amount of fairing in is minimized.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
p.s. Is St. Angelo out of the custom milling business, or just not willing to sort through their pile of molding cutters for the right shape?
dmaio@meganet.net
Cut off a piece of the damaged rail so that you have a clean "slice." Any millwork shop can use that as a pattern to make new toe and rub rails for you. Given all the sanding that has happened over the years, the original shape is probably not much of an issue. In fact, you may want to make patterns for both ends of the repair area, so that the amount of fairing in is minimized.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
p.s. Is St. Angelo out of the custom milling business, or just not willing to sort through their pile of molding cutters for the right shape?
dmaio@meganet.net
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Captain Mike
Re: Wooden Toerail & Rubrail replacement
Dear Tom:
It is advisable to replace the entire toerail and gunwale. Trying to splice a piece in the damage area will result in very visible blemish. It is next to impossible to make the proper bend and scraf joint to fit neatly-due to the curve especially amidship. Removing the old rails is not difficult-drill out the bungs and remove the screws. The rails have usually been fastened with a adhesive which is eazily removed. It is probably impossible to find teak in 19 to 20' lengths-so a joint will have to be made somewhere amidship. The simplist tools are required to make the rails: table saw, jointer and router. One small tip: glue the rails together before the sides are planed to the proper bevel. This will make the joint disappear. Do not forget to rout out the underside in the middle about 1/8 X1/4" this allows a good adaptation to the hull. The fasteners are set on 8" centers. Glue and plug the old holes with scrap teak; set with an adhesive or epoxy resin. Fair to hull. The toerail should be placed first because the gunwale is fastened with a slight overlap against this board. This will prevent any water penetration. Replace screw plugs after adhesive is set. Plug cutters are available from Rockler-(mail order) or at your local hardware store. The demensions are eazily obtained from the old rails. A tip on making the scraf joint that connects the two lenths of wood together into one rail: clamp the two pieces to be joined side-by-side and plane them together to any length scraf desired. When you reverse them the joint will be perfect: allowing that it was beveled on one plane, therefore, not hollowed. Good luck and many happy repairs! Capt. Mike
It is advisable to replace the entire toerail and gunwale. Trying to splice a piece in the damage area will result in very visible blemish. It is next to impossible to make the proper bend and scraf joint to fit neatly-due to the curve especially amidship. Removing the old rails is not difficult-drill out the bungs and remove the screws. The rails have usually been fastened with a adhesive which is eazily removed. It is probably impossible to find teak in 19 to 20' lengths-so a joint will have to be made somewhere amidship. The simplist tools are required to make the rails: table saw, jointer and router. One small tip: glue the rails together before the sides are planed to the proper bevel. This will make the joint disappear. Do not forget to rout out the underside in the middle about 1/8 X1/4" this allows a good adaptation to the hull. The fasteners are set on 8" centers. Glue and plug the old holes with scrap teak; set with an adhesive or epoxy resin. Fair to hull. The toerail should be placed first because the gunwale is fastened with a slight overlap against this board. This will prevent any water penetration. Replace screw plugs after adhesive is set. Plug cutters are available from Rockler-(mail order) or at your local hardware store. The demensions are eazily obtained from the old rails. A tip on making the scraf joint that connects the two lenths of wood together into one rail: clamp the two pieces to be joined side-by-side and plane them together to any length scraf desired. When you reverse them the joint will be perfect: allowing that it was beveled on one plane, therefore, not hollowed. Good luck and many happy repairs! Capt. Mike
Tom Barringer wrote: St. Angelo is stating they are no longer doing mouldings for the Cape dory line. Does anyone have any other suggestions for replacement mouldings for the toerail and rubrail on a Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender. I have approximately 6 ft of storm damage to starboard rail that I need to replace this year.
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Tom Barringer
Re: Toerail & Rubrail replacement on Typhoon Weekender
Duncan,
They say they can no longer do the Cd line due to shipping problems. I suggested I pick up the custom work at their location,however I have not received a response yet.
T.
celtic@skyhigh.com
They say they can no longer do the Cd line due to shipping problems. I suggested I pick up the custom work at their location,however I have not received a response yet.
T.
Duncan Maio wrote: Tom:
Cut off a piece of the damaged rail so that you have a clean "slice." Any millwork shop can use that as a pattern to make new toe and rub rails for you. Given all the sanding that has happened over the years, the original shape is probably not much of an issue. In fact, you may want to make patterns for both ends of the repair area, so that the amount of fairing in is minimized.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
p.s. Is St. Angelo out of the custom milling business, or just not willing to sort through their pile of molding cutters for the right shape?
celtic@skyhigh.com
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Skip D
Re: Toerail & Rubrail replacement on Typhoon Weekender
I struggled with St. Angelo for months to get some work done, it was rather bizarre. All he had to say is I will not do it. Instead he told me it was lost in shipping (twice) etc. I finally stopped communicating with him and went to Boulter Plywood Corp. in Somerville, MA. 617-666-1340. They had my wood to me in 5 days.
The owner is a boater and a very affable fellow.
> The instructions another person gave seem quite thorough. Ny story: I ended up taking 1 9' plank and having it cut into strips of the approximate dimension. Then I planed the pieces for the right shape. After I created a scarf joint in the approximate center beam (which split mid-season, but I "fixed" it through innovative sail track placement. Looked awfully good beforehand!) I'm a better sailor than craftsman, but it was fun and not all that difficult.
Good luck.
dauray@mediaone.net
The owner is a boater and a very affable fellow.
> The instructions another person gave seem quite thorough. Ny story: I ended up taking 1 9' plank and having it cut into strips of the approximate dimension. Then I planed the pieces for the right shape. After I created a scarf joint in the approximate center beam (which split mid-season, but I "fixed" it through innovative sail track placement. Looked awfully good beforehand!) I'm a better sailor than craftsman, but it was fun and not all that difficult.
Good luck.
dauray@mediaone.net
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Robert M Paterson
Re: Toerail & Rubrail replacement on Typhoon Weekender
Tom, I replaced the complete toe rails and rub rails on my 69 Ty with Mahogany,original to the boat. Full lengths of mahogany can be easly and much cheaper obtained that teak,and will require no splicing.Tom Barringer wrote: St. Angelo is stating they are no longer doing mouldings for the Cape dory line. Does anyone have any other suggestions for replacement mouldings for the toerail and rubrail on a Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender. I have approximately 6 ft of storm damage to starboard rail that I need to replace this year.
It is an easy wood to work with and finish if done correctly (varnish) is beautifull. Have the shop run it through the saw to the approx size when they rip the plank for you .You can refinish to your dimentions at home on your table saw with a planer blade or planner if you have one. The rest of the postings have explained how to refasten. Best of luck Bob P
Wskyr3d@aolo.com