topside and deck paint that DOESN'T blister

[Russell]

Also consider where are you going to stow the thing. My awnings are light weight sail cloth, no poles and get folded and actually stow below. Sunbrella ????????????/

My awnings are nearly full (cover entire boat except cockpit), made of sunbrella, and fold up nicely to stow rather easily.


Troy,
While I think the deck cover idea is a bit overkill, given the amount of work you have put into his restoration I can see his desire for such a thing. My two concerns would be ventalation, and quick access to inside in emergency. A boom tent style awning is much more practical, it will take care of most of the UV exposure plus still be usable at anchor to cool down, problem being anytime a storm rolls in you will have to go to the boat to take it down if you leave it up in its slip while away.

[Oswego John]

It is my feeling that a lot of the time, bubbles and blisters on a painted finish are caused by trapped moisture trying to escape.

O J

[Troy Scott]

Jim,

Dock Box?

Seriously, I just can't stand the thought of doing all that varnish work and then leaving it out to weather when I'm not even around. There has to be a better way.

[Joe CD MS 300]

Troy,

I'm noticing some compulsive / obsessive behavior here. Do you get 50 ft from you car and need to hit the lock button again? (I do at times). Remember the 300 feet of stainless anchor chain? (You never went with the SS did you?) Do we need to have an intervention? Or were you painting or doing some glass work in a poorly ventilated area? ':roll:'

Joe

[tartansailor]

All paints will blister if the surface is not prepared properly, and
also too heavy a coating is applied.
That I know for a fact.

Dick

[Jim Davis]

Joe

I'm starting to think it is a museum exhibit.

[Troy Scott]

OK guys,

Maybe I should quit bouncing my ideas off you guys. Yes, I am a little obsessive. I am somewhat of a perfectionist. I do take a long time to get things done. But I will say this: I've owned a number of boats over the years, and I've eventually sold or traded each one for more than I paid for it, sometimes much more. In the meantime I've sailed the boats and enjoyed them, often while enduring "friendly" advice from folks telling me things like "Why are you varnishing? Just let it go natural....."

No I did not buy SS anchor chain. I did build and install a beautiful windlass bolster.

An intervention would be welcome if it consisted of several very thoughtful Cape Dory guys (and/or girls) coming on down to Laurel to help me grind, fill, scrape, sand, paint, varnish and reinstall my Perkins. Otherwise just wish me well and ignore my apparent insanity.

[Russell]

Dont worry troy, OCD or not, I dont care, I am entirely behind you on anything that makes sense (SS chain did not for instance). When you are done with your boat you are probably going to have a CD36 that is nicer then the newest robinhood 36 built. I speak as someone who has spent far more then the purchase price of my boat in upgrading it. That does not stop me though, I want what I want. I envy that you do not live on your boat and can take it apart the way you have and can take care of cosmetic things I cannot address while living aboard.

If your boat is your passion, nothing wrong with being anal about it. There is a camp that says time is better spent actually sailing, they do not understance that some people actually enjoy messing about on boats just as much as they enjoy sailing boats.

Keep it up man,

Russell

[Troy Scott]

Thanks, Russell.

I appreciate the kind and encouraging words. This is a huge project, and it's taking much longer than originally anticipated. So far I've maintained my enthusiasm and my sense of humor. Several folks here identify with my desire to see her shine. Others seem annoyed that I don't just drop her in the water and go sailing. I do realize that the optimum position is somewhere between those two extremes. I still love everybody here, but occasionally I'm reminded of high school, where the "nerds" who study are ridiculed by the "cool" guys who seem to have more fun. I guess I'm a nerd. But I hope to be more satisfied in the long run.

We do tend to get off the subject here sometimes, don't we? I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has found a decent deck paint with which he/she has experienced no blistering, even after making a "mistake" like leaving a cockpit cushion out. I'd sincerely like to know the specifics: how the surface was prepped, how it was applied, etc..

[Joe CD MS 300]

Troy,

Don't take my comments seriously. Just trying to give you the perspective of someone on the outside looking in. That's what you are looking for right? It's your boat so more power to you with anything you want to do. I sometimes will over analyze things myself but a general lack of time helps keep in check a little. Like Russell said if you enjoy doing it, keep at it. You might be making some of us feeling a little guilty about not doing more on our own boats.

I'm often worried at my attempts at humor and how they are interpreted. I spent a lot of my youth growing up in a locker room type atmosphere so ball busting among guys is an integral part of my humor. Most of my friends will not let any perceived weakness or flaw go unexploited.

Joe

[Jim Buck]

Troy,

Please keep asking as I've learned a great deal from the questions you pose and the answers that are given; this post in particular. A while back you wrote of bead blasting bronze and I have resurrected a couple seacocks with that method. I'm most interested in learning more about new paint jobs peeling as the weather is warming and I'm preparing to paint the deck. Thank you for your questions and positive outlook on restoration.

[David van den Burgh]

I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has found a decent deck paint with which he/she has experienced no blistering, even after making a "mistake" like leaving a cockpit cushion out. I'd sincerely like to know the specifics: how the surface was prepped, how it was applied, etc..

If that's all you're after, Brightside Polyurethane has held up well as our nonskid paint - even when we've left a cushion out. The paint has adhered well for over four years and has not blistered.

Prep involved removing the old material with a palm sander and 60 grit paper. Once down to a smooth surface - basically hints of gelcoat and the original nonskid paint just showing - we masked the area, wiped it down with acetone, and rolled on Brightside Polyurethane with Interlux polyermic beads. It took two coats to get adequate coverage and uniform texture.

If I were doing the job again, I'd use Interlux's Interdeck with the beads pre-mixed. Prep would be the same.

I also used Brightside for the bootstripe and have yet to experience any blistering in that area.

*EDIT* As for topside paint, I'd go with Awlgrip, or a similar product. But, sorry, no personal experience with that.

[Troy Scott]

Joe,

It's cool. Thanks for your thoughts. I'm not really THAT sensitive...., well maybe I am..... Whatever. I'm OK. I always avoided locker rooms like the plague. I was and still am way too private for that. But I do admire folks who have enough self-confidence to function in that "ball-busting humor" environment. It just never worked for me.

Jim,

I'm glad to hear you've benefitted from some of my many questions. I guess I'll keep asking. I certainly don't know of any other forum of folks with this much readily available knowledge on the very subject I need. I've never met most of you guys, but I feel like I have friends here.

Folks,

Please send some good karma this way. I'll be driving my parents to Arkansas tomorrow, where we and some friends will spend a few days removing furniture and other personal things from my Grandmother's house. She died before Christmas. This will be a difficult time.

[Richard G. Abbinanti]

I will be painting my deck this year what paint should I buy. I have a 1981 Cape Dory Cutter. I was going to tape and brush?
Richard

[Jim Davis]

Troy

Please don't take our comments too harshly - they are not intended that way. All you can try to do is be careful with cushions and things. Also the boat will get scratched. Piers, sand on feet, dropped tools happen. When it gets bad enough, touch it up. As to putting two part over one part, it does work after the one part has hardened for several years. Also both can be waxed carefully after they have fully hardened. This shouldn't be needed for the first couple years with either and it is better to do it by hand gently.

In painting, one or two part, follow the manufacturers directions to the letter. The key is preparation. From my experience I have found that too many people get carried away with the sanding. With two part, and spray jobs, yes superfine paper is required. I have seen scratch pattern from 600 grit in spray jobs. For one part probably 220 is a coarse as you want to go. The extra tooth pays off in bonding. For hulls by all means use a long board to insure a fair surface.

Painting decks I have found it better to mix my own grit. I've used Interdeck, but I'm not real happy with it. Briteside holds up better for me. I do a complete prep and wipe everything down with lacquer thinner just before painting. Then I do the smooth surfaces till I'm happy. Let it dry for several days then go back and mask carefully. Mix the nonskid and just roll it on. A couple hints:
1. Pull the masking tape after each coat while the paint is still softish.
2. Always wipe with lacquer thinner just before painting, this removes any body oils from the surface and won't hurt dry paint.

Good luck this weekend. Having gone through the process a few times I understand what you are going through.