CD25D Standing Rigging

Bruce Ebling · Post by **Bruce Ebling** » Mar 9th, '09, 21:08

My 25D has had a Dwyer DH2150 mast hinge plate installed and I would like to further add an mast organizer plate underneath the hinge. My question is that since I have first owned the boat the upper and lower rigging has seemed a bit short, not allowing the turnbuckles to thread as far as I would like. I believe this is due to the addition of the hinge plate. My thought is to cut a small amount equal to the height of the plate off of the bottom of the mast to bring the rigging back to it's intended length. Before I do something so drastic I thought I would check in with the board and see if there is a better solution to the problem.
Thanks
Bruce Ebling

Bob Luby · Post by **Bob Luby** » Mar 9th, '09, 22:24

I'd be leery of doing this, unless the turnbuckle threads were really in danger of unscrewing, for fear of modifying the rig geometry. Why not just wait untill the shrouds are replaced in 10 yers or so?
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CR480
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CIRRUS

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Mar 9th, '09, 23:06

Considering the hinge plate and the deck organizer will both add height, I do not see a problem with cutting an equal amount off the bottom of the mast (you would actually be correcting). I would worry about attempting this myself with hand tools though, you want a very clean and strait cut.

As for the turnbuckles, ideally with the rig properly tuned they would be about halfway threaded, but its not a serious issue unless you cannot get the cotter pins in.

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Mar 10th, '09, 04:57

Bruce Ebling wrote:... My thought is to cut a small amount equal to the height of the plate off of the bottom of the mast to bring the rigging back to it's intended length.

That was the practice at Paceship Yachts, when they mounted factory-installed mast hinges.

How do you like your mast hinge? Does it feel solid when raising/lowering the mast? Does it lock the mast base firmly in place when it is stepped?

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Mar 10th, '09, 07:45

I too added the Dwyer Mast Hinge Bruce and my rigging is just on the line of being too short. I added toggles to the stays and uppers. I dont recall what the toggles added, but about 1".

When I installed the hinge others suggested the same plan you describe. I just cant bring my self to cut that stick and I need new rigging anyway.

IF I ever get around to dropping the mast, I am getting new rigging (Rhap's is original) and that will cure the problem.

Duncan, as long as the boom and mast are "stayed" amidship, the process works fine. In fact when lowering the mast just the friction of a 4:1 blocks was too much to allow it to break over and begin to lower. Best addition I ever made.

Bruce, when I get my new rigging, if you want my toggles we can work a deal. They aint cheap.

Fair Winds

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Mar 10th, '09, 08:40

A power miter saw with a carbide bade would bring your mast hight right back down to original. If a future owner (FO) ever wanted to eliminate the hinge plate the mast would be short. Toggles would be easy. Cutting the mast would get you back to a rig as desiged but is irreversible.

Just remember if you cut it twice it could still be too short, Steve.

Andy Denmark · Post by **Andy Denmark** » Mar 10th, '09, 08:53

What do you mean by "too short?" If the turnbuckle threads are fully engaged and there's room for a cotter key then they aren't "too short."

There is almost no need for standing rigging adjustment after the rig is tuned so if the above criteria are met then I'd be happy with it. The miniscule increase in mast height due to the base additions will make no significant difference in tuning, balance or performance.

In the event that the shrouds are indeed "too short" then I'd elect to lengthen them rather than modify the mast.

Just my $.02 worth.
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LINCOLN CAPRI PICTURE

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Mar 10th, '09, 18:08

barfwinkle wrote:... Dwyer Mast Hinge...

Best addition I ever made.

Thanks for the recommendation, I wasn't sure how people found this item in practice.

My mast was up and down 3 times last season (normal 1x, plus transiting the Champlain and Richelieu canals), so you can imagine how I would have liked to have had one!

Maybe next spring, thanks again.

Bruce Ebling · Post by **Bruce Ebling** » Mar 10th, '09, 20:43

The reason I am asking is that the lower standing rigging is to the point where I cannot get a cotter pin into the swage. I know that replacing the rigging would be the safe way to go, but not wanting to spend the money at this time I was looking for a different solution. I don't believe that shortening the mast by around 1/2" or so would change the geometry since by raising the mast on the hinge plate made the mast too high by that same amount. By cutting the mast down it would only restore it to its original height. But as mentioned once cut you cannot go back. I can't think of why anyone would want to remove the hinge plate. I know for as long as I own the boat it will have the hinge. I raise and lower the mast at least twice a year.
Bruce

Andy Denmark · Post by **Andy Denmark** » Mar 10th, '09, 21:12

As previously mentioned, toggles between the chainplates and turnbuckles would be the easiest way to solve your problem, assuming that would give you sufficient length to put in cotter keys. Toggles might also keep the turnbuckles from hanging up in the mast raising process.

A future owner might choose to remove the hinge plate and halyard organizer and then he would have some expensive problems to deal with because of the shortened mast.

Just some thoughts ............
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HEALTH SHOP

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Mar 10th, '09, 22:18

[img]http://images.westmarine.com/full/02247_f.jpg[/img]

This is what I used on all of the uppers. Worked great. I just did not want to cut that mast!!!!!

search WM for toggles.

Fair winds[/url]

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