CD 36 head overboard discharge

[Joe De]

I am a new owner (6 months ago) of a 1980 CD 36, and hope to gain from the experience of CD owners as I refurbuish this fine sailing vessel.

Two questions at the moment:

1. My head discharges to the holding tank, and the tank can either be emptied by suction form the cockpit fitting or from a hand pump in the port locker. I am considering a Yvalve in the head to direct discharge while at sea, bypassing the holding tank. It appears that the only option is to install a seacock in the same small space that the intake seacock is installed, at that appears to close to avoid re-circulation? Any experience on other places to install the valve. I would prefer onthe other side of the hull, but I see no way to plumb it in.

2. I plan to install an Adler-Barbour DC air cooled refrigeration system, any suggestions on the best place from those that have a similar system. The possible location are the port side cockpit locker aft of the water heater tank, and tthe other choice is under the sink?

Thanks

[Tom Keevil]

On our CD33 we have a Y-valve accessible from the sole hatch under the table. The discharge goes to a thru-hull in the forward portion of the space under the port settee, pretty close to the head bulkhead. You definitely want the discharge aft of the head intake so you get clean water coming in when you're underway. If you're at anchor you shouldn't be pumping it out to begin with, so the spacing isn't so critical.

[Steve Laume]

Is the duel pumping system really such a bad set up? I have a Y valve, overboard discharge or holding tank set up with no way to manually pump out the holding tank. I would trade with you in a heartbeat. I believe a lot of newer boats are going to the system you now have in place. It is one more step to pumping overboard but also a safe guard against forgetting to change the Y valve when you are in a no discharge area.

What you have might not be so bad, Steve.

[Russell]

My overboard direct discharge seacock is next to the intake on my CD36, recirculation has never been a problem.

[Jeff Barnes]

Joe,

My 36 is an 1982 (#68). My head system has two y-valves. The first directs discharge overboard (seacock next to the inlet...no recirc. problems) or to the holding tank (part of the keel). This valve is located under the counter in the head. The second y-valve (located in the port locker) allows emptying of the holding tank either through the pump-out fitting in the cockpit or overboard using a Sealand electric diaphram pump located in the aft lazarette. Entire system works great with maximum flexibility. Toilet is original Groco bowl converetd to electric using Jabsco conversion kit.

Jeff

[Jeff Barnes]

Joe,

I also have installed the A-B fridge in my 36. Mounted it in the port locker. I bulit a larger shelf to accomodate my water heater (Atlantic T6E), my starting battery, and the A-B. Highly recommend adding 2" of insulation to the existing ice box. I did mine on the inside of the box and still have plenty of room. The system keeps the box at about 40 dgerees, and makes three trays if ice cubes per day.

The A-B does consume around 40-50 A-h per day, so make sure you have sufficient battery capacity. I have 400 A-h house bank, and wouldn't recoomend any less with that fridge.

Let me know if you need any help on that installation.

Jeff

[Joe De]

Thanks to all that replied. I really do want to install the extra seacock, and I appreciate the experience with regard to recirculation if the exhaust seacock is in the same compartment as the intake seacock. With regard to the refrigeration, I can see advantage to both the locations that I am considering, but I have to do some more measuring.

[Troy Scott]

Joe De,

I have a 1988 CD36 with the larger head. There was, when I acquired the boat, a direct-discharge seacock just aft of the head, on the hull, easily visible in the head compartment itself, not in the locker with the intake seacock. The hull has a liner at that point, and in my boat there is about a one inch space between the liner and the hull. To install a seacock on the hull it is necessary to cut a hole (about six inches in diameter) in the liner, and, using a proper backing block, mount a seacock on the hull. If you choose to do this, you will also need an anti-siphon valve between the toilet and the discharge seacock when in the direct-discharge mode. Otherwise you have only the little joker valve keeping the ocean out of your boat. Also, if you don't have one already, you should have an anti-siphon valve on the 3/4" intake line as well. These are safeguards because the anti-siphon valves are far more positive than the less hearty valves in the usual marine toilets. Adding this seacock complicates your system by adding a y-valve, an anti-siphon valve, and a lot of hose. NOW, In my case, having had the exact system you are contemplating, I am SIMPLIFYING by removing the y-valve, the direct-discharge seacock, and the extra anti-siphon valve that system requires. I am adding an electric pump (a diaphragm type, not a macerator) to facilitate emptying the holding tank beyond the three mile limit.