Heat gun to remove Cetol

[jerryaxler]

The green bakes on after a few days. What we have been doing lately, is do the Armada free hand. I'm not perfect, but it is acceptable. I keep a rag with solvent handy as I go around the boat. This way I can remove any drips before they set. We started to do it this way last year on the Admirals insistence.

[Sea Hunt]

In Brightwork, The Art of Finishing Wood, Rebecca Wittman devotes several pages to various types of masking tape. From my read, she seems to strongly recommend 3M's #256 Scotchmark Green Masking Tape for "extended use" for up to 30 days

Ms. Wittman also recommends foam brushes for varnish. If a foam brush is good enough for Ms. Wittman applying varnish, it is certainly good enough for "Tadpole" applying Cetol

[hughesw]

Yeah Troy,

It's pretty warm here in Georgia in June. The tape was on for 4 or 5 days. I used Goo-Gone and acetone on a rag to remove most of the residue.

Warren

[Oswego John]

Call me a cheap skate or maybe it's because of laziness, but when I can avoid it, I don't use tape of any color or width.

I do what several other boat owners have mentioned when applying finish or paint. We cut in with a small foam or bristle brush in one hand while using a sheetrock taper's trowel in the other hand to act as a border edge, or guide. This taping knife is nothing more than a wide version of a putty knife. They are usually made in increments of 2 inches. My favorite is a 10 inch model, narrower where the toe rail is curved.

I just jamb it in the corner made by the deck and the toe rail, paint, wipe the blade of any surplus and continue on. You may fumble at first but after you get the hang of it, you can really zip along.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisear ... &Submit=Go

O J

[jbenagh]

There are Home Depot foam brushes and there are good ones. Never buy a collection of various-sized brushes in a large bag -- they might be ok for primer but not for varnish. I buy the good ones (I forget the brand) by the box from Hamilton Marine -- I figure it's cheaper than paint thinner for cleaning good brushes.

The bad ones leave small pieces of foam scattered across the varnished surface for the first 10-20 strokes. Then the leading edge is all chopped up which leaves streaks. Finally, after about 10 min, the entire foam part drops off which brings the varnishing session to a merciful end. Then the next day I sand and start over with the good brushes once the package with good brushes arrives in the mail

Jeff

[Steve Laume]

Even if foam brushes will do the job, there is no joy in using them. Maybe when cleanup time comes and you just pitch them in the trash. Even that doesn't really feel good. I do us them for paint sometimes but there is nothing quite as nice as a good brush to apply varnish. They are a joy to handle and make controlling the material much easier. This is especially true if you are cutting in without tape. If you are planning to keep adding coats you can save a bunch of clean up by wrapping your brush in clear plastic wrap and then tossing it in the freezer until the next day. Brushes will keep very nicely that way for quite some time. It is the same as with any tool, it is nicer to use a good one. If none of this mattered we would all be sailing Hunters, Steve.

[Sea Hunt]

Steve:

I agree with you in terms of tradition, etc. However, when someone of Ms. Wittman's apparent stature, knowledge and skill spends an entire page advocating for the use of foam brushes, I guess I kind of think she has a valid argument. And clearly she has experience in the use of bristle brushes, foam brushes, etc.

My own limited experience with a foam brush a few weeks ago was positive.

A word of caution. The only foam brushes Ms. Wittman recommends are those made by Jen Brush Mfg. Co. in Worcester, Ma. (not far from where I was raised).

I am trying to find a local Miami distributor. WM does not list them on their website. Home Depot does not list them either. The Jen Brush website says Ace Hardware. I will try them tomorrow.

[Oswego John]

Yes.

ACE is the Place.

[Troy Scott]

I bought whole cases of foam brushes from Jamestown Distributors. I think they're OK.

[jbenagh]

I buy them by the box from Hamilton Marine via mail order; about $15 for a few dozen. I also buy varnish from them.

Jeff

[Ron M.]

You guy's can keep your foam brushes........for years I've used good quality 1" angled sash natural bristle brushes for jobs like this , ( I like PURDY's ). They ' cut in ' extremely well and hold finish so you can lay down a good line without constantly going to the can. If properly cared for they last....I have some that must be 20 years old still in nice shape. Tape ? not very much.....once you get the hang of it you can lay out a fair line quickly.
O J 's mention of a wide sheetrock knife as a guide works very well.
________
VERMONT MEDICAL MARIJUANA DISPENSARIES

[sharkbait]

My best brush has no manufacturers name but it was made in China. My second best is a Purdy straight cut.

[Oswego John]

OJ-

Over morning coffee I re-read your earlier post on a different thread that answered my question. Yes, it is OK to use a heat gun to speed up the process a little.

Thank you my friend. You are amazing

By the way, nice pix of you in the recent Masthead, CD hat and all. Now I can sort of put a face with a post.

Congratulations on being inducted into the "Carl Alberg Fellows" as a charter member It is much deserved. I am confident it was a unanimous vote.

...........................................................................................................

Robert and all,

When I first read the above post, I didn't have the foggiest notion of what you were referring to. I reread the latest issue of the Masthead and was stunned by what I read. I had no preknowledge of this award. Stunned isn't an adequate enough word to describe my feelings. I am truly humbled by this award. I want to thank those who thought enough of and about me to nominate and elect me for this important award.

As I sit here grasping and groping at straws for words to describe my feelings, the first thought that comes to mind is that there are literally dozens of other boat owners that are more worthy than I to receive this honor. Stunned and humbled should suffice for the time being until I can gain composure.

The simplest and most meaningful way for me to express my gratitude for this great honor is to just say "Thank You All".

As ever,
O J

[Maine Sail]

I used to be a fine natural bristle brush snob (mostly Epifanes brushes) but I now use foam almost exclusively. The trick to a foam brush is to never "edge" it on the can to get rid of drips. Edging it induces air & bubbles. After dipping it simply hold it over the can and spin it slowly between your fingers to get the drips off then move it to the work..

[Joe Myerson]

When I first started reading this thread, I have to admit I thought it would be just another rehash of the Cetol-good vs. Cetol-bad controversy. (I'm a Cetol believer, BTW--but that's not why I'm putting my two cents into this thread.)

But some of the other contributions are terrific. For example:

OJ's comment about using the drywall tool. I'd never heard of that one, but it should make the annual toe-rail ordeal less messy. I've always taken my chances at freehand application, with a rag read in my left hand.

And MainSail's comment about foam brushes: I'll try 'em again this season, remembering to spin them, rather than generating bubbles by "edging" them.

I'm almost embarrassed to admit that for my brightwork, I've been using the cheapest Chinese bristle brushes I could find at my local hardware store. They do work, and I can make them last by remembering to wash them out with solvent and store them in Saran Wrap.

But there is the problem of shedding.

Thanks again, guys.

--Joe