Typhoon Head Sail Line Size

[shavdog]

I believe 5/16 is the std size...anyone out there using 3/8 and if you do does it get caught up in the blocks when you tack?...i ordered a 3/8 50ft line and they sent me 7/16 and its too big as it gets caught up in the blocks...

also, when i tack the lines always get snagged in the shrouds so i cant pull the sail thru until the wind blows it around...is there something to put around the shroud to prevent this?

[Ned Crockett]

5/16" is the correct size. Just yesterday my brother replaced his 3/8" jib sheets with 5/16", like mine, for the same reason you stated. His would kink at the blocks. I covered the turnbuckles with pvc about 15" in length and 1" diameter. I also have shroud covers that will spin when the jib sheet is pulled across them. Hope this helps.

[Sea Hunt]

I recently installed 5/16" sheets for my 110 jib. This is the size recommended in the spec sheets for Ty Weekenders. They are fine, although you could probably use 3/8" as well. The 5/16" allows for 3 wraps on the winch, although the 3/8" might also allow for 3 wraps as well.

I need to install some plastic (PVC or other) over my turnbuckles and shrouds - probably 2'-3'. However, I need to find the type that are already "split" so I can install them without having to remove the turnbuckles. I believe they come in different diameters. Not sure what they are called so I am having some difficulty doing a Google search.

[Tod M]

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... &id=297680

[Sea Hunt]

Tod:

Yes, exactly Thank you. I spent several hours trying to find it on various websites, including Defender. I finally gave up.

Gosh, I'm dumb - apparently as dumb as I think I am. How depressing.

[Sea Hunt]

Tod and all others:

I am getting ready to order shroud rollers from Defender for my Ty Weekender. They come in 6' sections. I am thinking of ordering 2 sections and cutting them in half so that I have 4 sections that are each 3' in length. I think this should be long (high) enough. Reasonable:?:

I am also concerned about what diameter size to order. The standing rigging is 5/16". My thought was to order the largest size available that is split so that I do not have to undo the turnbuckle, etc. (3/8" ID - I believe). My thinking is that this will facilitate the greatest amount of rain water down through the shroud rollers to wash out sea water that accumulates. It is only an additional 1/16" but at least it is something. Alternatively, should I buy shroud rollers that are 5/16" so that there is very little, if any, gap between the shroud and the roller

As always, the expertise and advise of this board are much, much appreciated.

[Tod Mills]

Robert,

What is the model number of the "shroud roller" you are looking at? They list a 5' long ash shroud roller, but I get the feeling you are thinking of something else (the split pvc shroud cover or the turnbuckle boots?). Different jibs might contact in different areas, so if the covers or rollers are too short they might not be effective in some situations.

I've never seen a split turnbuckle boot; just the cap that fits in the top end is split. But it isn't a big deal to put them on: just loosen the rigging and do one at a time. Of course, it is a good idea to safety the turnbuckles somehow. I've seen turnbuckles loosen themselves up.

Generally it is best to leave stainless open to the air to avoid or minimize "crevice corrosion", but if you replace your standing rigging within a reasonable time for salt water (I've seen a figure for it, but can't remember it offhand) then you should be okay. With swaged ends, crevice corrosion would probably be worst inside the ends and would be the controlling item for your shroud replacement time.

Tod

[Sea Hunt]

Hello Tod:

I was looking at the following Davis Instruments shroud roller/protector that is sold by Defender:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 0&id=75025

It is Item #: 612147
Manufacturer: DAVIS INSTRUMENTS
Model #: 257

These are each 6' in length and supposedly "are slit for easy installation" according to Defender's website.

Now that I think about it, a 3/8" ID shroud protector will not fit over the turnbuckles which are larger in diameter than 3/8".

My intent is (was) to protect my Genoa from getting caught/ripped/hung up on the the turnbuckle/shroud metal during tacks and jibes.

I know there is a simple solution. I am just too dumb to figure it out without a lot of help from this board.

I am very reluctant to start unscrewing turnbuckles, even one at a time.

Perhaps I will sail a little more with the Genoa and try to determine more accurately where it rubs against (or gets hung up on) the shrouds. It has only happened a few times but I want to try to protect and preserve the Genoa as much as I can.

If it only happens near the turnbuckles, perhaps I can buy some larger diameter PVC pipe (with thin walls) and cut a vertical slit down the PVC pipe. Attach it to the turnbuckle and then wrap some white duct tape to hold it in place.

Help me before I screw this up royally

[RIKanaka]

Hello Tod:

I was looking at the following Davis Instruments shroud roller/protector that is sold by Defender:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 0&id=75025

It is Item #: 612147
Manufacturer: DAVIS INSTRUMENTS
Model #: 257

I would get the turnbuckle boots and caps. You can install them easily by undoing the clevis pin to the shrouds at the chainplate (one at a time, obviously, to avoid toppling your mast).

[trapper]

Hi Robert,

If all you want to do is protect your headsail, have you thought about rigger's tape? I have it on my boat. It's cheap and you just pull it off every so often and check your rigging.

http://www.jmsonline.net/SOUWESTER-RIGGING-TAPE.htm

[Sea Hunt]

Trapper:

I may try rigger's tape. I have some on board.

The few times the Genoa has gotten "stuck" during a tack, it was the knot at the clew of the sail that sort of got stuck on the turnbuckle. I was thinking that having some type of roller or PVC or something similar would alleviate this possibility and allow the Genoa to more cleanly slide around/past the turnbuckles during tacks.

Also, during tacks, because I am single handing, the Genoa generally is backwinded briefly during the tack and then is released to set up on the leeward side. During this, the sail seems to always rub against the 5/16" shrouds. I was hoping to avoid damage to the Genoa from always rubbing against the shroud during tacks (and jibes)

Weather has been lousy in Miami the past week and I have been in sick bay for a while. I hope to get out sailing tomorrow. Winds are forecast to be light. I will rig the 140 Genoa and more carefully observe the clew during tacks.

[mgphl52]

Hi Robert,

You might try letting the head sail back wind just a bit a longer. That has worked well for me, once I learned that I could tack faster and cleaner with just a little helm to the lee instead of trying to make hard over "turns."

Now, I go for a smooth, rounded turn and maintain as much forward speed as possible with the back winded head sail bringing the bow through the wind. The trick, of course, is to not hold the jib or genny back winded too long. Just enough so when you release the sheet, the whole sail comes across and you can haul it in quickly (without a winch handle!) and trim up for your new course.

Yes, the sail will rub against shrouds, but not a lot if you just hold your tension while the bow crosses the wind and then do a full release of the sheet.

Enjoy & Have FUN!!!

-michael

[Oswego John]

Hi Robert,

I agree, rigger's tape, rollers and backwinding are all helpful.

I don't know what your genny sheet setup is. I remember reading sometime back that some sailors use two separate sheets attached to their clew, one for port and one for starboard. I also remember reading that the sheets were attached by using two separate bowlines. I don't use that method. I think that it invites trouble.

What a lot of sailors do, including myself, is use one double length sheet. They secure the center of the single sheet to the clew with a cow hitch (larks head) knot.

I use that same knot but I tie it in a different position than others when using my working jib. Most people have the bight of the finished knot around the leech, facing toward the stern. I have my finished bight under the foot, facing downward. This probably wouldn't have anything to gain on a genny, though. You could try it, it might help you.

When single handing, I had to overcome a bad habit. When I'm coming about, while backwinding, I had a tendency to wait too long when releasing the working sheet while hauling in on the former lazy sheet. This caused tension on the clew and dragged the clew across the shrouds.

Now, with proper timing, I find that I let the breeze do most of the work, the jib glides across with little or no resistance and my main job is to hustle to get the new working sheet cleated off.

I'm still learning.

Good luck,
O J

[Neil Gordon]

Backwinding will slow the boat, as you are essentially hove to for the moments the jib/genoa are backed. Let the boat's momentum take it through the turn. Release the jib when it luffs, haul in on the new leeward sheet and set up for the new tack.

There's been lots of discussion about larksheads and single sheets vs. bowlines at the clew. I use two sheets attached with bowlines. Riggers tape over the knots will help but I've found that a luffing genoa is least likely to get hung up.

[shavdog]

We found tacking to be a slow process when racing....seems we were always waiting for the head sail to unhook from the shrouds so our tacks were not very crisp....our ty is on the hard so i'll have to wait until next spring...but, i plan on putting on some type of pvc rollers...what about tying the knot back two or three feet or stitching the two sides together to get rid of the "knot"..maybe that might have some merit...craig