I've recently acquired a 1972 Typhoon on a trailer. I haven't launched or retrieved it yet but the former owner told me that, because there is no eye at the bow for the winch cable, it is hard to hold the boat in position on the trailer as it is pulled out. Since its out of the water for a few more months, should I be thinking about drilling a hole (I kind of hate the thought) and installing a bow eye or is there another way to keep it on the trailer? The former owner used lines rigged around the transom and back to the winch but said it was pretty cumbersome. Do Typhoons on trailers typically have a place to attach a winch line? I appreciate any advice. John
john.hoft-march@appleton.org
Typhoon haulout on trailer
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John Phillips
Re: Typhoon haulout on trailer
John:
I believe you can attach a line through the bronze bow piece. The line then attached down to the trailer should sufficently keep the boat straight on the trailer and the bow from rising up when you pull the boat from the water. I do this with my typhoon and it works fine. My trailer appears to have been reconfigured for the boat but does have keel guides which helps in getting the boat straight on the trailer. This means that you can't winch the boat into place, but with the full keel I am not sure that would work very well. If someone with a Triad trailer responds you will have a better idea how it is done on a trailer designed specifically for the boat. Personally, I would try it quite a few times before resorting to a bow eye. The boat is just too pretty for body piercings.
John
broakmar@navix.net
I believe you can attach a line through the bronze bow piece. The line then attached down to the trailer should sufficently keep the boat straight on the trailer and the bow from rising up when you pull the boat from the water. I do this with my typhoon and it works fine. My trailer appears to have been reconfigured for the boat but does have keel guides which helps in getting the boat straight on the trailer. This means that you can't winch the boat into place, but with the full keel I am not sure that would work very well. If someone with a Triad trailer responds you will have a better idea how it is done on a trailer designed specifically for the boat. Personally, I would try it quite a few times before resorting to a bow eye. The boat is just too pretty for body piercings.
John
John Hoft-March wrote: I've recently acquired a 1972 Typhoon on a trailer. I haven't launched or retrieved it yet but the former owner told me that, because there is no eye at the bow for the winch cable, it is hard to hold the boat in position on the trailer as it is pulled out. Since its out of the water for a few more months, should I be thinking about drilling a hole (I kind of hate the thought) and installing a bow eye or is there another way to keep it on the trailer? The former owner used lines rigged around the transom and back to the winch but said it was pretty cumbersome. Do Typhoons on trailers typically have a place to attach a winch line? I appreciate any advice. John
broakmar@navix.net
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Jerry
Re: Typhoon haulout on trailer
Mount your trailer winch an inch or two higher than your bow chocks and then you can pull the boat up to a "V" stop and keep it attached while traveling. As mentioned in the previous comment keel guides are a BIG asset. Two sets are good. Make the top one as high as possible on the keel. Cross winds or currents will not prevent your getting the boat on the trailer properly.John Hoft-March wrote: I've recently acquired a 1972 Typhoon on a trailer. I haven't launched or retrieved it yet but the former owner told me that, because there is no eye at the bow for the winch cable, it is hard to hold the boat in position on the trailer as it is pulled out. Since its out of the water for a few more months, should I be thinking about drilling a hole (I kind of hate the thought) and installing a bow eye or is there another way to keep it on the trailer? The former owner used lines rigged around the transom and back to the winch but said it was pretty cumbersome. Do Typhoons on trailers typically have a place to attach a winch line? I appreciate any advice. John
jlecocq@milehigh.net
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sloopjohnl
Re: Typhoon haulout on trailer
john,
when i bought my typhoon in NJ i pondered the haulout situation also.
it did not have a trailer which i definitely needed as i am a lake sailor. some advised a trailer with pads or bunks, but i had sailed with an elderly gentleman who had an '84 typhoon and had it all figured out. he had a loadrite roller trailer. what he and i both do is when the boat is on the trailer for the winter we jack the boat up under the keel until almost all the weight is off the rollers. we block up the keel similar to the way they block larger boats when hauled with a travel lift. the rollers then act to balance the boat and keep it from falling over much as stands with pads do. the important thing is to take the weight off the rollers so the hull does not distort.
the roller-type trailer seems to be the simplest to load. this is what i have been doing for the last ten years without a bow eye. make yourself a bridle out of 3/16 aircraft cable - it will be a two piece bridle. with one length of cable form a loop at one end large enough to easily fit over the genoa winch and secure with a cable clamp. i then slip clear vinyl hose onto the cable so it will not mar the topsides or teak. form another loop at the other end and clamp so that this loop will be in the approximate location that a bow eye would be placed. make a second identical cable with loops.
when it is time to haul out i attach the cables to the genoa winches, run the cables outside the shrouds, hang over the bow and secure the two loops together at the bow (approximately where a bow eye would be) with a light wire tie and then secure a light line from the loops tied together to the stemhead fitting to keep the bow loops from falling under the hull. stretch your trailer winch line and good sturdy hook (no brass snap hooks - they bend too easy) or carabiner and snap into the two bow loops. then just winch her
on up.
we have a nice concrete launch ramp, the trailer has an 8 foot tongue extension and i have a good pair of wading boots. i back the trailer into the water until the rear rollers are just submerged below the surface of the water. this makes it easy to align the bow between the rollers and get a straight pull onto the trailer. the last two or three feet of winching is the toughest since you have lost the flotation by then. the winches must be built to handle the load because i have had no problems to date.
the weight of the boat hull is on the trailer rollers a mere 2 to 4 hours per year. some cradles, padded or bunked trailers can distort the hull if not properly aligned and the weight well distributed.
many people have been amazed at how easy my wife and i make it look but it really is the system and a good trailer.
happy trailering!
sloopjohnl@aol.com
when i bought my typhoon in NJ i pondered the haulout situation also.
it did not have a trailer which i definitely needed as i am a lake sailor. some advised a trailer with pads or bunks, but i had sailed with an elderly gentleman who had an '84 typhoon and had it all figured out. he had a loadrite roller trailer. what he and i both do is when the boat is on the trailer for the winter we jack the boat up under the keel until almost all the weight is off the rollers. we block up the keel similar to the way they block larger boats when hauled with a travel lift. the rollers then act to balance the boat and keep it from falling over much as stands with pads do. the important thing is to take the weight off the rollers so the hull does not distort.
the roller-type trailer seems to be the simplest to load. this is what i have been doing for the last ten years without a bow eye. make yourself a bridle out of 3/16 aircraft cable - it will be a two piece bridle. with one length of cable form a loop at one end large enough to easily fit over the genoa winch and secure with a cable clamp. i then slip clear vinyl hose onto the cable so it will not mar the topsides or teak. form another loop at the other end and clamp so that this loop will be in the approximate location that a bow eye would be placed. make a second identical cable with loops.
when it is time to haul out i attach the cables to the genoa winches, run the cables outside the shrouds, hang over the bow and secure the two loops together at the bow (approximately where a bow eye would be) with a light wire tie and then secure a light line from the loops tied together to the stemhead fitting to keep the bow loops from falling under the hull. stretch your trailer winch line and good sturdy hook (no brass snap hooks - they bend too easy) or carabiner and snap into the two bow loops. then just winch her
on up.
we have a nice concrete launch ramp, the trailer has an 8 foot tongue extension and i have a good pair of wading boots. i back the trailer into the water until the rear rollers are just submerged below the surface of the water. this makes it easy to align the bow between the rollers and get a straight pull onto the trailer. the last two or three feet of winching is the toughest since you have lost the flotation by then. the winches must be built to handle the load because i have had no problems to date.
the weight of the boat hull is on the trailer rollers a mere 2 to 4 hours per year. some cradles, padded or bunked trailers can distort the hull if not properly aligned and the weight well distributed.
many people have been amazed at how easy my wife and i make it look but it really is the system and a good trailer.
happy trailering!
sloopjohnl@aol.com
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John Danicic
Re: Typhoon haulout on trailer
My trailer is the "float off" kind with a oak plank for the keel to rest on, and four pads to stablize the hull. No Rollers anywhere. My problem was keeping the bow high enough so that the boat sat straight on the trailer.John Hoft-March wrote: Don't put in an eye bolt!
I solved it by using the mast support post which extends about two feet above the traler winch. After I get the boat about two or three feet out from the bow stop on the trailer, I thread the bitter end of the trailer winch rope up to a pully at the top of the mast support then down and around the bronze stem and tie a slipped bowline to the stem. I have a two speed winch and crank on it so that the trailer bow rest is in its regular spot just above the water line. I leave the line like this when I pull it out because when it was low (on the winch only) the bow used to slip down a few inches when I pulled the boat out of the water and the stern was no longer floating. After I get it up the ramp, I Take the line off the post and crank it down snug with the winch. I add another safety line as well.
John Danicic CD Typhoon Moana Hull #911
johndanicic@uswest.net