Asymmetrical Spinnaker on CD31

[Troy Scott]

Dean,

You're right. It makes perfect sense to through-bolt the pulpit (as it should have been originally) and use the bale.

[Cathy Monaghan]

[img]http://www.mainephoto.com/folios/Loda06 ... Detail.jpg[/img]

Bill and Cathy: is this the bale you refer to?

Thanks, everyone!

Dean

Yep. All you need is a snatch block and the lines. The bow pulpit should already be thru-bolted, not screwed, to both the deck (aft) and the sprit (forward) -- mine is anyway. The next time you're in the dink, make a trip up to the bowsprit and take a gander underneath for the the nuts/bolts.


Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[wsonntag]

What Cathy Said! Happy Sailing

Bill Sonntag

[Dean Abramson]

That is great news. I had it in my head that the pulpit was held only by screws. I'm not sure why. (Maybe I was thinking of the anchor roller...?)

But certainly you are right. The 31 must be similar to the 32. There's no doubt now where I will attach the block.

Thanks, everyone!

Dean

[Troy Scott]

Dean,

Actually, the anchor roller is through-bolted to a heavy, matching bronze backing plate. My pulpit is through bolted as well, I had just forgotten.

[Cathy Monaghan]

The bronze anchor roller is most definitely thru-bolted -- 3 bolts on each side with bronze backing plates. The stem-head is also thru-bolted.

Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[Cathy Monaghan]

The UK-Halsey Sailmakers web site has a good description of how to setup and hancle a cruising spinnaker (with a sock).

Chapter 7a: UK-Halsey's Encyclopedia of Sails Using the Flasher: http://www.ukhalsey.com/LearningCenter/ ... edia7a.asp

Chapter 7b: Cruising Spinnaker Trim: http://www.ukhalsey.com/LearningCenter/ ... edia7b.asp

Chapter 7c: Cruising Spinnaker Jibes: http://www.ukhalsey.com/LearningCenter/ ... edia7c.asp

If you want to start at the beginning of the UK-Halsey Encyclopedia of Sails, CLICK HERE. It's a handy reference.

[Dean Abramson]

With excellent assistance and counsel from Len Kovit, I finally have used the aspin. Everything went very well. (Except that we were in dense fog.) We got it up, jibed it several times, then doused it with the sock. Everything went just like it shows in books and articles. I am psyched about having this new light wind tool.

I was nervous about the first time, and having a veteran like Len aboard was really invaluable. I have really learned a lot, and met a lot of great folks, through this board.

Now I need to dry out the sail, as it got pretty damp.

Dean

[Troy Scott]

Folks, Where are your aspin sheet blocks? I've been thinking about the recommendation that they be at the far aft corner of the boat. My Genoa tracks stop almost four feet from the "corner". However, because of the nicely tapered ends (compared to "modern" hull forms") the sheeting angle might not improve by moving that distance aft on my CD36 as much as it would on a boat with a wide stern. Still, the instructions DO SAY what they say.....
There are some possibilities:
1. I could mount a nice bronze Spartan padeye on the deck right in that aft corner, just inside the toerail. One like CD used to attach the staysail sheet to the deck should do nicely. I could attach a snatch block there. The padeye might benefit from an elevating pad. A sheet from a snatch block attached there would probably need a fairlead, maybe mounted like a furling lead about eight inches above the deck on the stern pulpit.
2. I could mount a spring-loaded swivel-base block in that same location permanently. It would be handier, but I don't really like this idea.
3. I could mount a u-shaped pad-eye/stem-eye on top of the aft end of the teak toe-rail, effectively through-bolting it like the genoa track is installed. This might actually make the best mounting point for a snatch block. Thoughts?

Or do most of you feel that the aft end of the Genoa track is good enough?

[Steve Laume]

When I first flew my reacher I would take a short loop of 1" tubular webbing and put a larks head through the stern cleats. I could then attach a snatch block and run my sheets all the way aft. The problem was there was way too much shtuff competing for the cleats. Double dinghy towing painters, life sling, jack lines and then the reacher turning blocks. Raven clearly needed some pad eyes.

I went just forward of the stern cleats and put in some nice bronze pad eyes, through bolted with large backing plates. They are attached directly to the deck without any blocks to raise them. The life sling is attached to the port side. Jack lines get clipped into them and then cleated off on the bow cleats. The dinghy and or dock lines get the stern cleats with no interference.

I still have the reacher but have also started playing with an old radial headed spinnaker. I keep turning blocks with snap shackles right on my spinnaker sheets. When it comes time to rig things I clip them onto the pad eyes and run the sheets forward. There doesn't seem to be any trouble with the lead from the turning blocks to the winches or to the sail for that matter. I would be nice to have a second set of winches so I could leave the head sail sheets on the primaries and run the spinnaker sheets to another set of winches.

Things get a little crowded on the pad eyes when the jack lines are in place but it works pretty well. Anything aft of the pushpit might tend to get in the way of things.

There can never be too many pad eyes on the boat, Steve.

[Tom Keevil]

We spliced about one foot of line onto the beckets of two normal blocks. We then tie them onto the stern cleats. They are slightly more trouble to set up than snatch blocks - but also a whole lot cheaper.

It is true that the stern cleats can get a bit crowded, what with a dinghy and jack lines, so we have purchased padeyes to install forward of the cleats. We're now waiting until one of us is feeling unusually flexible to get in there and install the backing plates. In a boat filled with inaccessible spots, that space forward of the stern cleats seems tougher than most. In the meantime the spliced line solution works fine.

[Troy Scott]

Tom and Steve, I see that you both want to or have installed padeyes forward of the stern cleats. Why FORWARD, exactly? I believe I can put these padeyes way back in the corner, aft of the stern cleat. I understand that the space gets crowded. But I think the sheet could could run clear of the stuff you mentioned. Thoughts?

[Troy Scott]

Folks,

I've been told by Andy Denmark, whose advice I value highly, that a goo aspin tack downhaul could be described as "a simple 4:1 tackle behind the forestay but instead of dead-ending at a becket there are two running ends of the tackle, one to stbd and the other to port."

This isn't really clear to me. Can anyone post a drawing or a photo?

[Andy Denmark]

Troy,

I will try to describe this setup to you. I don't have roller furling on Rhiannon so substitute an ATN tacker or parrel beads where I use a snatch block. Whatever you use will be secured around the headstay or furled headsail

If you don't know what the hardware references are here then get a Harken catalog and look them up.

Picture this -- the jib is down and in stops on the deck and the forestay is "empty" except for the hanked portion of the jib that is jammed down the stay as far as it will go toward the deck.

Above this bunched up part of the sail I secure a snatch block with a becket so the snatch block can roll up and down the headstay. The snap shackle on the snatch lock is where the tack of the spin is secured. This is important as it enables you to "blow the tack" on the spin if you need to get it down in a hurry (because it absolutely will not fill if the tack is free-flying) and the spin can be easily lowered behind the main in this configuration.

On the snatch block becket is shackled a double block. A triple block is secured at deck level using the locking pin on the most accessible bow chock - the pin simply slides through the shackle on the bottom of this double block (which should have a swiveling shackle).

The downhaul line goes around one of the lower block sheaves, goes up and around one of the upper block sheaves, then back down and around one of the lower block sheaves and again back up and around one of the upper block sheaves, then back down and around the third lower block sheave. This leaves you 2 running ends of the downhaul line at the lower block, one going to the port side and the other to starboard. Secure each of these to a cleat at the cockpit or cabin top and you have the basics of the setup.

You might want to draw this out to see how it all goes together. It's really pretty simple. 4:1 purchase is enough power and fine adjustment for a 33 or 36 so you don't have to work your crew so hard when adjusting the tack height. I like the fact that it's adjustable from either side of the cockpit and if you use colored line it becomes a no-brainer for the crew ("please ease the red line a foot") 2:1 purchase will work fine for 26-30 footers, and below that 1:1 purchase is sufficient (single ended).

When I have more time I will try to make a drawing of this setup but right now I am prepping for a new engine (arrives in a week) and reworking the engine compartment, through hulls, reefer insulation, etc.

Hope this helps.
________
Roll Blunts

[Andy Denmark]

The lower block is a triple block even though I mistakenly made a second reference to it as a double!

Oh, the joys of attaining maturity! (at least I caught it ...........)
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