fresh water tank selector valves

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 13th, '08, 10:14

Folks,

My CD36 has an odd-looking, Rube Goldberg contraption for selecting which freshwater tank the pressure system draws from. I have a group of gate valves all attached to a system of copper fittings and hoses. It looks like a whole bunch of $2 parts cobbled together. There has to be a better way. I'm replacing most of the old plumbing hose, so this is the time to change it if I'm going to. What have you folks done to make this better?

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Aug 13th, '08, 10:28

I have the origonal setup, exactly as you described it. I find it to be fine. Time to change tanks? Close one valve and open another.

The only way I could imagine to improve it is switching to ball valves. Which would make it easier to see which one is currently open. Buts its easy enough with the gate valves, since they are in line (you can see which is open because it wont line up with the others).

Doug Gibson · Post by **Doug Gibson** » Aug 13th, '08, 10:35

Hi Troy -

I've had the same thoughts about how to improve upon the manifold arrangement on my CD36. The only conclusion I've arrived at would be to simply replace the gate valves with standard bronze ball valves with lever type handles. This seems to be the standard solution on new boats today. Functionally, it would operate the same... just a little easier to determine at a glance what tank I'm drawing from. Currently, I hang a little key float with chain on the valve that I have open.

On the other hand, the gate valves seem to have served their purpose for 20 years... probably will continue for another 20! The frequency at which they are opened/closed is pretty low.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Aug 13th, '08, 11:25

Ours is just copper tubing and gate valves. I really haven't had problems with the valves but the hoses are just clamped on the copper tubing (no hose barb) and this has been a leaking problem several times. It has been a low priority thing on my todo list for several years. I was considering changing to either stainless, plastic or brass ball valves with proper hose barbs. It hasn't bubbled up to the top of my list and I suspect it won't for a while...

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 13th, '08, 14:18

All,
I agree that the gate valve gang is OK, and would probably be fine after I'm gone. However, I think it would be fairly easy to replace this with a neat-looking group of ball valves with labels showing tank location and capacity. I would appreciate any suggestions .

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Aug 13th, '08, 14:47

the problem with gate valves is going to be space. Due to the handle length you wont be able to group them in the same location neatly. I am not sure that labels offer much, as the valves are grouped fore and aft just as the tanks are, it takes less time to identify which is which thinking that way then reading labels (that said mine do have little label tags hanging from them that actually look to be from the factory!).

If you go with ball valves, you might have to group them along the forward part of the locker rather then the side, for space. Then you will have to get around the sink drain and whatever you have stowed in there to get to them.

I am really thinking, and cannot come up with a solution that will actually improve things. I did find small ball valves in Martinique with small handles(not much wider then the body of the valve), that I used in the head for switching head inlet/watermaker inlet/deck washdown inlet, these would work well, but I had never before seen ball valves like this before so not sure how easy they would be to source in the US (they were of course french made) and the tiny handles (big enough for thumb and one finger to turn) would not lend well to putting on labels.

Joe CD MS 300 · Post by **Joe CD MS 300** » Aug 13th, '08, 16:29

I don't have a 36 but have a similar set up with gate valves, one each for port and starboard tanks and a third to open the manual pump. The thought of replacing the gate valves comes to mind every time I check which tank I am on. When you are accustomed to being able to tell visually when a sea cock is open the gate valves are somewhat of a minor annoyance.

Although not real high on my priority list I have given some thought to replacing the gate valves and I agree that space might be an issue. My unexecuted thought would be to make up my own custom manifold using levered ball valves and cooper tubing for the manifold being able to get the spacing right in the shop.

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 13th, '08, 21:04

Russell,

How about a photo of the small valve? I've seen some nice small valves in the greenhouse supply catalogs. I'll bet they're practically the same thing. Did you buy yours at a marine supply?

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Aug 13th, '08, 21:21

On Mahalo the 3 valves are located within the bilge access. One of the things I like about the plasitic ball valves is that they have a "T" handle rather than a lever. McMaster Carr also has brass ball vales with "Twin-Ear" handles in both brass and $tainle$$.

JWSutcliffe · Post by **JWSutcliffe** » Aug 13th, '08, 21:25

For what its worth, my CD30 has ball valves for water tank selection. Although they dont need to be switched very often, I find them a lot easier than the gate valves on a CD33 I chartered.

Jeff Barnes · Post by **Jeff Barnes** » Aug 13th, '08, 22:15

Troy,

My gate valve set-up, which I believe is the same as yours has operated flwlessly since 1982 (hull #68). Ball valves will be awkward due to their handles (not much space at the bottom of that cabinet, as you know.) I have hung small plastic tags on each indicating tank location and capacity. While I've made lots of plumbing upgrades from the original, manifold valve replcement has never been on the list.

Jeff

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 13th, '08, 23:02

OK Folks,

How about this one:

http://www.gemplers.com/product/125862/ ... -off-Valve

or this one:

http://www.pexsupply.com/product_dtl.as ... r)&cID=423

Parfait's Provider · Post by **Parfait's Provider** » Aug 14th, '08, 08:03

If all you need is a visual reference, how about a dab of paint on the top of each handle when it is closed? Odd one is on.

Parfait is equipped with an engraved sign mounted inside the door; it indicates which valve is which. Is this not standard?

On the other hand, I hate turning those gate valves, so I am reading with great interest.

Paul D. · Post by **Paul D.** » Aug 14th, '08, 08:37

I have the standard CD gate valves complete with original tags from 1982 on them! They work fine. If I replaced these (when replacing all the old hose) I would use Apollo 1/2" BALL VALVES or similar and mount them in a staggered way so there would be plenty of room.

I would still keep the forward tank forward, starbrd tank in the middle and aft tank aft. You just need room to swing the handles which I think there is plenty down there for.

That four way valve looks interesting but I would not want to mess with all the adaptors neede to make it work from a garden hose application.

Good luck with your project.

All the best,
Paul

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Aug 14th, '08, 08:38

I just replaced my freshwater plumbing,(prior to launch) with ball valves for pvc pipe I purchased at the local hardware store. They are plastic with T handles......(which indicate on /off). I believe the ball is nylon, and I used nylon NPT fittings.......no metal involved save for ss clamps.
Cheap , clean , and simple (I don't have pressure water).
I had ideas of using pec but didn't want to spring for the crimper.
________
Maine dispensary

The Cape Dory Board

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