Boom Vang Ideas for Typhoon

[Joe Montana]

What a beautiful little yacht!

I could be wrong, but from the brochure she looks to me more like an early "weekender" than what we now call the "daysailer." If so, it just means that they were honest enough in those days to call the boat a daysailer rather than a "weekender." Could the terminology have changed as production costs and prices rose? That would have been smart marketing.

It really doesn't matter. Either way, she's a beauty!

[Oswego John]

What a beautiful little yacht!

I could be wrong, but from the brochure she looks to me more like an early "weekender" than what we now call the "daysailer."

It really doesn't matter. Either way, she's a beauty!

That's right. Call it what you want. Any way that you want to slice it, she's a beauty.

The Typhoon has two types of bronze hull marking plaques, three if you want to include the plastic type.

Most of us are aware of the oval, egg shaped plaques on the later models. The early models have a squarish shaped plaque. 4-3/4" wide by 4" high. On its lower edge, there is a upside down "U" shaped cutout, 1-1/8 wide by 1-3/4" high. This plaque is mounted on the stern bulkhead with the "U" cutout straddling the exposed section of the angled rudder post.

It is my feeling, at this time, that if anyone has a Ty with this type of hull ID bronze plaque, the Ty is an early Weekender.

Whether the Ty has port lights or not is not a sure way to tell if it is, or isn't a Weekender. The earlier Weekenders, up to about 1968 or early 1969, didn't have the port lights in the cuddy cabin. I can't say for sure, but it seems that about that time was when the Tys were starting to be made by Cape Dory and started coming through with port lights.

Unless the owner installed them himself, I have never heard of a Daysailer having portlights at all.

Whoever the builder was, Naugus or Cape Dory, with either the older or newer models, the Weekenders have a sliding hatch in the cuddy roof. The early models' hatches are made of teak slats. The newer models' hatches are made of glass.

The early models of the weekender had keel (misnomer) stepped masts. The later models have roof stepped tabernacles.

Another way to tell the differnce between a Weekender from a Daysailer is by its rigging. The Weekender has a 3/4 fractional rig on its forestay. The Daysailer's forestay extends up to the masthead.

And lastly, I now believe that the Weekender uses a different set of hull numbers than that of the Daysailer.

Good luck,
O J

[Chris & Dale Schnell]

The original set of pictures in the ad for our Typhoon can be found by a search on "Typhoon for Sale, by Robert Paterson, in May 2008". I think these pictures, along w/the very old sales brochure posted tell the tale. Examples: the bronze placque, the way the tiller is recessed up under the aft deck in a storage area, the bronze ports were added, the masthead is like the brochure's curve head (as apposed the block style), it is fractional rig like the brochure, etc. Just fyi: we've received our TFI roller furler & the new sails should be in this week or early next week. We'll take pictures of the installation process, but it looks relatively easy.

And we thank you for all the compliments and fully agree....she is a beauty!!!!

[Sea Hunt]

I, too, am thinking about installing some type of boom vang on S/V Tadpole.

I have been looking at Harken equipment because that is what is on the small Harbor 20s I race. These Harbor 20s get (and take) a lot of abuse every day. The owner of the sailing school (40+ years racing and sailing) thinks very highly of Harken. On some of the Harbor 20s he installed a rigid boom; on others it is two "fiddles" ( ) attached at the boom bail and the mast bail with a 1/4" or 3/8" line run thru the blocks.

I do not want to do anything drastic to S/V Tadpole but, from all I have read, it seems a boomvang is a worthwhile investment.

I am looking on the Harken website at a 4:1 fiddle system that I think is identical to the one on the Harbor 20s.

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/vang.php

My thought is to buy the fiddles for the small boat system, that is, fiddle number 2655 ("A") for the boom fiddle/bail and fiddle number 2658 ("B") for the mast fiddle/bail.

The fiddle that is attached to the mast (number 2658) has a cam cleat (or jam cleat ) so that you can make easy small adjustments to the boom.

The two fiddles together will cost approximately $110, plus shipping costs and the cost of the line to run thru the blocks.

What are the thoughts of this board on this system Is it something I should spend "boat dollars" on or not

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.

P.S. Planned to go sailing today. Unfortunately, one of the guest "water closets" at the house had a major malfunction and I spent the past 4 hours repairing and driving back and forth to the local hardware store. All is now well and dry (and clean). I hope to be out sailing tomorrow or Tuesday depending on weather. No wind-go diving. Wind-go sailing.

[mgphl52]

If you're determined to use Harken, the "bullet block" series should be fine. The doubles have a 400 pound worling load and the triples 600.
I used a set of triples for my prior Typhoons, partly because they were readily available at WM the first time. Too many years later, when I was finally able to get Typhoon, I used them again because they had worked so well the first time. The 'carbo' fiddles seem like a lot of over-kill/over-price to me...

-michael

[Sea Hunt]

Mike:

I must, reluctantly, yet again confess my ignorance and/or stupidity (probably both ). I have been on the Harken website looking for the term "bullet block" and cannot find it. I see where they use the term but cannot find the product, etc. Not surprising since I can barely use the computer. I also tried researching this term on something called "Google". Again, no joy.

I apologize for imposing but can you direct me to where to look or post a photo of what I should be looking for

I am not set on Harken. If you know of other, better boom vang systems, I would be grateful for the information.

Thanks,

[mgphl52]

Hi Robert,

No problem at all! It took me a while to locate them as well!
The first step is http://www.harken.com/blocks/blockspecs.php
On that page under "Classic Blocks" you will find a link to Bullet Blocks page.

Enjoy & Have FUN!!!

[Sea Hunt]

Thanks Mike Hope you are enjoying the much deserved vacation.

I am also now looking at three Garhauer boom vang systems. One is Model Number 25-US 4-1 (~$103). The "US" designation means the blocks are polished stainless steel. The second is Model Number 25-UAG 4-1 (~$96). "UAG" means the blocks are anodized with a grey aluminum surface. The third is Model Number 25-UAB 4-1. (~$96). "UAB" means the blocks are anodized with a black aluminum surface. The brochure references "working loads" in describing these boom vangs. They are rated at 1,000 lbs with 30' of 5/16" line. I am assuming this is sufficient for the main on a Typhoon Weekender, but I would welcome the input of this board.

I seem to recall several posts from some time ago praising the quality of Garhauer products. I again assume this is still valid.

Thanks again in advance for any and all assistance, suggestions, advise, etc.

[boom2it]

Sea Hunt,
are you planning on installing the boom vang yourself? I too am curious about installing a boom vang, though I am leaning towards the "rigid" boom vang. I am thinking of the rigid so that it will serve two purposes, 1) boom vang, 2) no topping lift.
The reason for my post/question, do you think self tapping screws will be strong enough to hold a boom vang in place when there is stress involved? Have you seen any instructions that say or show how the vang attachments are installed to the boom and base of the mast?
Thanks, Gene.......fellow newbie typhoon sailor.

[Sea Hunt]

Hello Gene:

I have not been looking at rigid boom vangs, only those with shackles that attach to bails already on the mast and boom and with blocks for a 4:1 line purchase (probably more than is necessary).

I do not want a rigid boom vang because I do not want to drill and tap for the necessary attachment screws. Depending upon the boom vang model you will have to drill and tap for between 8-12 screws (mast and boom). Plus I wanted to keep my Ty as traditional looking as possible. Perhaps a rigid boom looks good on a racing sailboat (and also substitutes for a topping lift) but I just do not think it would look good on a Ty Weekender. This is my personal taste only.

At the sailing school where I "race" Harbor 20s (not sure you can really call what I do "racing" ), some of the sailboats have rigid booms and some have more traditional boom vangs attached with shackles and bails. I am not sure why there is a lack of uniformity. The ones with rigid booms work OK but some of the screws have popped out (especially those on the boom) and the boom vangs are temporarily held in place with duct tape wrapped around the vang and the boom Of course, these sailboats get a lot of use (and abuse) from students, etc. so it may not be a fair comparison. They work but they just do not look Cape Dory "nautical" to me.

I am still leaning towards a small Garhauer or Harken boom vang but am in no rush to buy.

I will try to keep you posted on my progress.

P.S. When I bought my Ty Weekender, she came with almost new 3 strand nylon line for the main halyard, the jib halyard and the mainsheet. The prior owner explained he wanted to try to keep her as "traditional" as possible. Right or wrong, I agreed with this thought and it factored into my buying decision (only a little ). I am not racing S/V Tadpole (although I suspect that with a good skipper at the helm - not me , she could embarrass some modern day "racers") so I am not troubled by the slight stretching of the halyards once raised. This, of course, would drive a racer nuts

[Mike Wainfeld]

Sorry Robert- I really do not mean to make you nuts-buuut -are you sure that's not 3 strand dacron? Nylon does not stretch slightly-it stretches a lot! Way too much to use for halyards.I'm finding that even my older Sta-Set halyards are a bit too stretchy. It probably is dacron. OK back to the vang.
Mike

[Sea Hunt]

Perhaps the folks on this board will start to realize how dumb I really am

I just got an email from the prior owner who immediately caught my mistake. I am hopeful he will not mind me quoting a portion of his email:

"All halyards and main sheet are low stretch polyester three strand line . . ."

Nylon, polyester, dacron, braided, etc., etc. Who can tell the difference I may try to go back to hemp lines

I must say that one of the great benefits of having bought this particular Ty Weekender is the relationship with the prior owner. He has been OUTSTANDING and I have been fortunate to be able to ask many, many questions of him and get a lot of valuable information.

He redid all of the toe and rub rails on S/V Tadpole. As I mentioned in another post someone (or something) banged into her while on her mooring a few weeks ago. After hurricane season I am going to try to replace the damaged portion of the toe/rub rails. The prior owner, learning of this, looked around in his garage, found some unused teak rails and is sending them to me.

He is a real class act

[Sea Hunt]

I am sort of settling on the Garhauer 25 UAB 4:1 as I think it will more closely "match" the other rigging, etc. I will be calling Garhauer Friday or Monday to confirm that this rig will work with my main, etc. This model is also the cheapest of the boom vangs (~$96 plus S&H).

Got out sailing today for about 2 1/2 hours. This was my first chance to practice with the 130-140 Genoa. For the first 1 1/2 - 2 hours the winds were very light (3-5 kts). This was good as working with the Genoa is different (for me) than working with the 100% jib that I had been using since April. I did about 8-10 tacks and 2-3 jibes in very light winds. It was NOT pretty. But it got done. The winds then picked up to 8-10 and fortunately by then I had found a rhythm and sequence for tacking and jibing. It is actually a little easier than with the 100% working jib. Not sure why. I will still need a lot more practice.

Heaving to was easier with the Genoa. The Genoa also reduced almost all forward motion while hove to, whereas with the 100% working jib there was some forward movement, in addition to the "S" curvature movement.

I tried to think about the effect, if any, of a boom vang on my main while sailing today. I have been taught that generally the boom should be parallel to the deck and then adjusted slightly depending on wind conditions, and whether on a beat, a run, etc.

It seems like a boom vang would pull down the boom somewhat but I am not sure it will bring it level with the deck.

This was also first day of mini-lobster season in Florida. Monitored Ch. 16. I was dodging a lot of small powerboats heading to and from their "secret" sites. Coast Guard and FMP were very busy. Several lost divers. Most found from what I heard. Two divers died. Tried raising Bandolera II (Zeida) again. No joy.

[Chris L]

"I tried to think about the effect, if any, of a boom vang on my main while sailing today. I have been taught that generally the boom should be parallel to the deck and then adjusted slightly depending on wind conditions, and whether on a beat, a run, etc."

SeaHunt,

In the light winds you described a vang would provide little benefit. I tend to leave the vang very loose in winds under 10 knots. When the wind picks up the vang is more important. It will help to flatten and depower the main while beating, and will help keep the boom from rising up when off the wind. Hope that helps.

Chris

[Mike Wainfeld]

Here are a couple of shots of my setup. I did not use a bail on the mast-instead I put a padeye in the mast slot below the halyard exit. I used stainless bolts and locknuts and I bent the washers slightly to conform to the curve of the slot. The I just slid it into the slot and tightened the bolts.
The vang itself is fashioned from two triple blocks, one with a cam cleat, and 1/4" line. It's smoother and has more purchase than the pre-made tackles (Sheafer, Garhaur etc.)
Mike
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cf3 ... /ry%3D320/