Hello folks. Here I am to keep this discussion alive. Actually. . maybe you can all chime in about this seemingly simple solution. I was mentioning this topic to Carter Brey (he and I are in the same mooring field and speak often). He said that if he still had his CD25 and this was an issue, he would simply through bold some aluminum angle iron instead of digging out all the old steel. This seems like a relatively simple fix -- one that I could probably do even in the water. I tensioned my own rig last year with Loos gauges. I figure I could loosen up my shrouds on both sides, then lash my uppers on the side to be repaired, through bolt that aluminum stringer, replace all hardware and then do the other side. This seems like an operation that could be done in a day with some careful bedding and such.
Any thoughts?
(by the way -- my steel is exposed and brownish but seemingly solid). I'm near the idea of surgery but not sure about it yet.
-henry
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Troy Scott
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- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
embedded rust
Henry,
As I understand it, the rusting steel will continue to swell. This would create enormous pressure and delamination where it is embedded. Theoretically this would also tend to "stretch" the through bolts that hold the chainplates down. This might stress and weaken those bolts. After the steel had begun to crumble and disintegrate, particles would probably find their way out of the area, until there would be a void. This situation would be in constant flux. If I had steel chainplates that were OK, I would try to treat them so they would stay that way. If they had begun to corrode badly, I would have to get rid of them. The addition of an aluminum angle to a seriously deteriorated structure would probably be a short term fix, and one that would have to be monitored closely. You would have the constantly changing rusting steel embedded backing plate, the bronze chainplate, and an aluminum angle all electrically connected by a stainless steel bolt. This would likely make an interestingly destructive battery.
If I had this problem, I would probably bite the bullet, dig out the rusting steel, fill the void with reinforced resin, and add a sturdy piece of FRP precure below the hull-to-deck joint. See my post in the topic "oh my God".
As I understand it, the rusting steel will continue to swell. This would create enormous pressure and delamination where it is embedded. Theoretically this would also tend to "stretch" the through bolts that hold the chainplates down. This might stress and weaken those bolts. After the steel had begun to crumble and disintegrate, particles would probably find their way out of the area, until there would be a void. This situation would be in constant flux. If I had steel chainplates that were OK, I would try to treat them so they would stay that way. If they had begun to corrode badly, I would have to get rid of them. The addition of an aluminum angle to a seriously deteriorated structure would probably be a short term fix, and one that would have to be monitored closely. You would have the constantly changing rusting steel embedded backing plate, the bronze chainplate, and an aluminum angle all electrically connected by a stainless steel bolt. This would likely make an interestingly destructive battery.
If I had this problem, I would probably bite the bullet, dig out the rusting steel, fill the void with reinforced resin, and add a sturdy piece of FRP precure below the hull-to-deck joint. See my post in the topic "oh my God".
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott