Redoing cabin sole, potentially interesting option

[Russell]

One of the things I would love to do on my CD36 is replace the cabin sole. This is obviously not only a big, but expensive job. A major downside to Cape Dorys was the fact that the soles use an insanely thin veneer which makes refinishing or refurbishing almost impossible (short of just laying down new veneer). Which stinks considering the wear and tear the sole sees.

So the cabin sole is a summer project I have been thinking about a lot lately, doing some looking around online I came across this:

http://www.woodworkingforwatercraft.com/cabinsole.html

Basicly it appears you measure yourself (or make tracings?) and they send you a new cabin sole precut to install yourself. It certainly appears like it would be a good way to save money. They offer veneer thickness of 1/4" to 1/2"!

Now I have not gotten a quote nor do I have any idea what the real cost of this would be, but it certainly is an interesting option I had not considered before.

[Jeff Barnes]

Russell,

Ambitious project indeed, although not impossible. That being said I have not replaced mine on Jazman (CD36 #68). I have recently refinished the sole: sanded (by hand) with 320 wet paper, and then applied two coats of Ultimate Sole. This stuff has been used by a few members of this board and produces outstanding results with reasonable "no slip" characteristics. Mine turned out really nice. What is the condition of yours that warrants replacement? No question that the veneer is very thin...but it can be refinished.

Jeff

[Russell]

Yes ultimate sole is a nice product, it is essentially the same finish used on gymnasium/basketball court floors.

The problem with such a thin veneer is you cant sand out a ding, if there is a ding, your stuck with it even after stripping the old finish. A Thin veneer can stand up to stripping, but it cannot stand up to heavy sanding at all. My veneer has plenty of dings, but the real problem is areas of water damage outside the shower (boat was like that when I bought it), absolutely zero that can be done about that if you cannot sand back the teak.

[tmsc]

Russell,

Here is something that I have had pretty good luck with filling the dings. I mix up some West Sys epoxy with the 207 Clear hardener and then thicken it with teak sanding dust. It matches a whole lot better than the wood putties even the teak color. I also seal cabin soles with the stuff before I varnish it. I just use cheap polyester to seal the bottom and edges. The polyester is so cheap that it removes the thought of getting skimpy when coating these areas.

I replaced the sole in my 33 last year and it is a job. I saw the same site you found after I had replaced mine. It would have sure been easier, and like you, I have wondered about the cost. If you use them let me know.

I know you have already thought of this, but just as a friendly reminder, you have to get the thing in and out of the companionway regardless of which method you use. I had to do the main salon in two pieces in the 33 to get by that little problem. It did not hurt my feelings though because it allowed me to modify the bilge access. I also have made mine so that it can be removed easily, so if I decide to install a bilge tank or anything else, it is easier job.

Concerning varnish, I decided to experiment this time and went with Varathane hardwood floor finish. The jury is still out on it though, but is was darn super easy to apply and has a great gloss.

Well enough from me. Keep us informed on the project.

[M. R. Bober]

The problem with such a thin veneer is you cant sand out a ding, if there is a ding, your stuck with it even after stripping the old finish. A Thin veneer can stand up to stripping, but it cannot stand up to heavy sanding at all. My veneer has plenty of dings, but the real problem is areas of water damage outside the shower (boat was like that when I bought it), absolutely zero that can be done about that if you cannot sand back the teak.

Have you tried to steam out the dings? I have seen furniture refinishers place a damp cloth directly on a ding and then apply a hot iron to the cloth. Sometimes it takes a few attempts, but it will lift the ding. I don't know it the technique works on veneer, but it does on solid wood.

Hope it helps,
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster (Wood eye? You bet I would), VA

[Russell]

Well its been a few days and the company has not responded to my email, which does not give me much confidence in them.

Lee,

Yes I actually intended to do the sole in an entirely different way which would make the getting it in and out of the companionway a non issue. The bilge access on these boats is extreamly limited. The plan is for far more access points, in addition to making the bulk of the floor removable with ease to aid in possible fuel tank replacement in the future.

[trapper]

Hi Russell,

I will be replacing the sole on my 25D at some point in time. It is sound but looks bad. Below is a link from a guy on the board who has a 25 that he has redone and his sole is beautiful. Maybe he can help.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9447350@N04/

Also, his name is Dave Brandt and he posts to the board.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

[S/V Necessity]

Since the topic is being discussed... If you ever do decide to steam a dent out of a veneered surface, beware that it can (and most likely will) break the glue bond. Be ready to clamp the veneer back down immediately afterwards. And then be aware that sometimes the glue still wont grab. It can be done but it's pretty dicey. As in last resort dicey....

[Tod M]

Donna D of the Tartan 34 "Sin Sal" on the CSBB. She and Max replaced their sole, IIRC, with actual solid teak boards / holly battens or some such. I forget the details...

Tod