Installing tack hook for reef point

boom2it · Post by **boom2it** » Jun 2nd, '08, 20:21

I bought a tack hook today in the hopes that this will help in the process of installing the reef on the main. I know the rule of thumb, "if you think you might need a reef then put it in before you leave", I wish I had done this on Sunday, but thats another story. Anyway the Tack hook has a single hole for a self tapping screw I believe. I am thinking of installing a through bolt completely through the boom to help handle the load. Would a single screw be enough to handle the load? Or would a through bolt completely through the boom work better? I know it would have to be removed if I needed to take the sail off completely, but I don't plan on doing that until the end of the season.

Neil Gordon · Post by **Neil Gordon** » Jun 2nd, '08, 20:30

boom2it wrote:I wish I had done this on Sunday, but thats another story.

Hey, no fair!!! We want to know.

SeaBelle · Post by **SeaBelle** » Jun 3rd, '08, 06:23

I've never been on a Ty but the single hole is for a through bolt at the gooseneck. My memory doesn't serve me well these days I either used an existing bolt (for tack) or existing hole for another bolt.

D Rush · Post by **D Rush** » Jun 3rd, '08, 07:21

Don't some TYs come with Roller Reefing?
Maybe your TY from 1983 does not.
I know that Roller Reefing is pretty ugly and some believe is "useless". Wouldn't the "through bolt" be right in the area of the "Roller Reefing" mechanism?

My main reason for mentioning is that my CD25 has this Roller Reefing and I would prefer a better reefing method.

Bill Goldsmith · Post by **Bill Goldsmith** » Jun 3rd, '08, 09:03

SeaBelle is right, the hook should be through-bolted at the gooseneck. The bolt should go through the portion of the gooseneck casting that fits into the boom. Just be sure not to drill the hole in a location that would foul the bolt attaching the casting to the rest of the assembly.

If you are considering putting two reef points in your sail, then you can install two reef hooks with the one through bolt, one on each side. Then if you are out with one reef in the main, and you decide you need the second, you don't have to unhook the first reef; rather you simply take the second cringle to the second hook.

Gary H · Post by **Gary H** » Jun 3rd, '08, 10:49

I have been thinking about installing a reef hook on my Ty. I read somewhere that instead of using a hook, one could tie a line to the reefing grommet and then just haul down on it and cleat it. I have an extra cleat on the base of my mast. I am trying to visualize if this would work or if it would restrict the boom from swinging in any way.

Dan & Chris · Post by **Dan & Chris** » Jun 3rd, '08, 13:08

Gary H wrote:I have been thinking about installing a reef hook on my Ty. I read somewhere that instead of using a hook, one could tie a line to the reefing grommet and then just haul down on it and cleat it. I have an extra cleat on the base of my mast. I am trying to visualize if this would work or if it would restrict the boom from swinging in any way.

This has worked well for us; simple, cheap, no drilling required.

Dan

Neil Gordon · Post by **Neil Gordon** » Jun 3rd, '08, 13:24

Gary H wrote:I read somewhere that instead of using a hook, one could tie a line to the reefing grommet and then just haul down on it and cleat it. I have an extra cleat on the base of my mast. I am trying to visualize if this would work or if it would restrict the boom from swinging in any way.

Tie the line to the boom and run it up through the reef cringle and down to the cleat. You can use it as a downhaul when reefing rather than try "sewing" the line thorugh a pitching hole in the sail.

I've used a line for reefing for a decade, with no ill effects.

Joe Myerson · Post by **Joe Myerson** » Jun 3rd, '08, 13:28

My Marshall catboat did not have a reefing hook(s). Instead, I permanently threaded reefing pennants through both reef cringles (secured with figure-8 knots on each side of the grommet. When reefing was called for, I'd tie the pennants around the boom at the gooseneck.

This system worked very well for the catboat. It also worked on my 25D until I asked the sailmaker to install webbing and twin reefing rings on both cringles.

BTW, if you adopt this inexpensive method, be sure to keep the pennant lines tied out of the way, or they'll catch as you raise your sail.

--Joe

bhartley · Post by **bhartley** » Jun 3rd, '08, 14:40

Gary H mentioned using a line and existing cleats. Our reef line got "installed" one day when we had to reef in a hurry and had no hook. Worked so well, we've used it since. We have two cleats at the mast (one on either side) which is key.

A line is cleated to one side of the mast and the line runs straight up to the cringle and through to the other side. The line then loops UNDER the boom and back up through the cringle and back to the other cleat.

To reef, I uncleat one end but leave the line around the bottom horn of the cleat. As I ease the main halyard, the slack is taken up hard on the "reef line", this process continues (very quickly) until the cringle meets the boom and is cleated off as is the halyard.

The plus for me single handing is that the loop under the boom is pulling the boom up while the loop through the cringle is pulling down. The boom never drops down (and jams on the downhaul cleat).

The only threatened modification is to install a padeye on the underside of the boom to keep the line from slipping into the gooseneck. If there's always a bit of tension on it, it's not a problem.

Our 25D has standard reef hooks with a loop on the cringle, but this method has worked great through many a reef on the Ty.

Bly

mgphl52 · Post by **mgphl52** » Jun 3rd, '08, 17:54

The reef hook that was previously installed on KAYLA's boom was not easy to use and nearly impossible after we got a new main. I finally just took it off and made a short line with a bowline on one end (with the end whipped against the line). The bowline is large enough to keep it from going through the grommet. I push the loop thru, go under the boom and thread the loop on the opposite side. Then I can tighten down and under the gooseneck (making sure none of it will chaff!) and part way around the mast to the spare halyard cleat. It takes a minute or two to set up, but has served us well in some pretty nasty stuff! (Like when I was wishing she had 3 reefs instead of just 2!). This method is also very easy to shake out. You could even set it up (thread the line thru the loop) and tie off loosely if you thought you might need to reef later but know you don't need it currently.

If anyone is really interested (and I remember the camera...), I'll take some pictures this Saturday, just let me know.

-michael

Rebinva · Post by **Rebinva** » Jun 3rd, '08, 18:16

Sounds like what I had been considering for Sandpiper.

Don't ask me how I know about forgetting the camera. ;>)

mgphl52 · Post by **mgphl52** » Jun 3rd, '08, 18:20

After posting, it dawned on me that my cell phone has a camera and I'm rarely without the phone... just another example of how to 'forget the camera!'

-michael

mgphl52 · Post by **mgphl52** » Jun 6th, '08, 18:06

I'm heading over to KAYLA 0800, speak soon or I might forget completely...

Judith · Post by **Judith** » Jun 6th, '08, 18:50

Looks like Reb would welcome them, I'm trying to picture the set-up, and--who knows?--maybe it'll be just the information someone needs when they find it in the archives a few years hence

Judith

The Cape Dory Board

Installing tack hook for reef point

Installing tack hook for reef point

Re: Installing tack hook for reef point

Reefing Hook

Ty reef hook

Re: Ty reef hook

Re: Ty reef hook

Reefing pennants

Another option

We use a line as well

Michael, I would be interested in any pics you might have.

Anyone want pics?

Go for the pix