Folks,
I am ordering a new knob, hinge roll pin and dog roll pin for the opening port on, Moonshadow, our CD-26. What is the best method of extracting the old and installing the new? Much thanks, it's nice to be back on the page again.
Tom K.
Installing opening ports hinge roll pin - CD-26
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Tom Kennedy
- Posts: 8
- Joined: May 1st, '06, 09:55
- Location: Cape Dory 26 - Upper Chesapeake Bay
-
Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Removing A Roll Pin
Tom,
I have a 13 piece set of pin punches. Some people call them drift pins. Harbor Freight, Key word "Pin Punch Set" #93460 2VGA $9.99
If you use the Cat. #, you get a better idea of the item.
They are flat ended punches in assorted width diameters. Select the punch that is narrow enough to slip through the hole that the old roll pin is in, but wide enough that it engages the end of the existing roll pin.
Hold the flat end of the proper sized punch against the end of the old roll pin and tap the head of the punch with enough force to drive the roll pin out of the other end of the hole.
Do not try to drive the roll pin out with a center punch or with any other tool that doesn't have a flat end or has a tapered shaft. A pointed punch will dig into the core of the roll pin and expand it and possibly distort it permanently. Use a flat ended punch of the proper diameter.
Insert the chamferred end of the new pin into the existing hole and tap lightly with a plastic peened hammer. As the new pin is driven deeper, hold the end of a larger punch against the end of the pin and tap it in until the pin's edge is flush with the edge of the hole.
Good luck,
O J
I have a 13 piece set of pin punches. Some people call them drift pins. Harbor Freight, Key word "Pin Punch Set" #93460 2VGA $9.99
If you use the Cat. #, you get a better idea of the item.
They are flat ended punches in assorted width diameters. Select the punch that is narrow enough to slip through the hole that the old roll pin is in, but wide enough that it engages the end of the existing roll pin.
Hold the flat end of the proper sized punch against the end of the old roll pin and tap the head of the punch with enough force to drive the roll pin out of the other end of the hole.
Do not try to drive the roll pin out with a center punch or with any other tool that doesn't have a flat end or has a tapered shaft. A pointed punch will dig into the core of the roll pin and expand it and possibly distort it permanently. Use a flat ended punch of the proper diameter.
Insert the chamferred end of the new pin into the existing hole and tap lightly with a plastic peened hammer. As the new pin is driven deeper, hold the end of a larger punch against the end of the pin and tap it in until the pin's edge is flush with the edge of the hole.
Good luck,
O J
-
Tom Kennedy
- Posts: 8
- Joined: May 1st, '06, 09:55
- Location: Cape Dory 26 - Upper Chesapeake Bay
Bronze port hinge roll pin Install.
John,
Thanks for the speedy response. The pin punch kit sounds good. I might have used a nail or something as a punch and ended up going over my inventory of obscenities. Thanks again... Tom K.
Thanks for the speedy response. The pin punch kit sounds good. I might have used a nail or something as a punch and ended up going over my inventory of obscenities. Thanks again... Tom K.
-
Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
You could use the right sized nail if you grind the end flat. A little PB Blaster applied with care as not to get it on the surrounding woodwork would not do any harm either. OJ is of course right on in suggesting the proper punch. Sears sells them at a reasonable price when they are on sale.
The greatest part of all of this is that we can still get original bronze parts for our 20 some year old ports, Steve.
The greatest part of all of this is that we can still get original bronze parts for our 20 some year old ports, Steve.
-
Tom Kennedy
- Posts: 8
- Joined: May 1st, '06, 09:55
- Location: Cape Dory 26 - Upper Chesapeake Bay
Replacing the dog pin on a CD-26
Oswego John and Steve,
Thanks for your replys. The whole operation was "Cheesekake". The knob, threaded dog, and two pins along with S&H came to $50 bucks (that'd be almost $600 to do all six ports). I went to my local Harbor Freight and picked up a pack of the smaller size punch pins for about $7 bucks, they worked fine. This whole episode led me to check, clean and lubricate the others with clear teflon lube. Something that was needed and long overdue.
Thanks again, Tom K.
Thanks for your replys. The whole operation was "Cheesekake". The knob, threaded dog, and two pins along with S&H came to $50 bucks (that'd be almost $600 to do all six ports). I went to my local Harbor Freight and picked up a pack of the smaller size punch pins for about $7 bucks, they worked fine. This whole episode led me to check, clean and lubricate the others with clear teflon lube. Something that was needed and long overdue.
Thanks again, Tom K.
-
Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Roll Pin Material.
Chase,
Can't say for sure. I only know of carbon spring steel and stainless steel.
O J
Can't say for sure. I only know of carbon spring steel and stainless steel.
O J
-
Tom Kennedy
- Posts: 8
- Joined: May 1st, '06, 09:55
- Location: Cape Dory 26 - Upper Chesapeake Bay
Roll pins
Chase,
The port dog was 3/8" bronze. It looks like you could replicate it by getting a similar size bronze bolt with the same thread, cutting the head off and drilling a 3/16" hole on a drill press.
The "Spirol Pin" that secures the dog to the port is 3/16" x 1" long. It looks stainless to me, which would make sense considering the tension it has to handle when tightening the port dog. It isn't a solid piece, but spiroled as it's name suggests. The dog cost $20 bucks, the knob was $25 and the pin was $2.00. Hope this helps.
Tom K.
The port dog was 3/8" bronze. It looks like you could replicate it by getting a similar size bronze bolt with the same thread, cutting the head off and drilling a 3/16" hole on a drill press.
The "Spirol Pin" that secures the dog to the port is 3/16" x 1" long. It looks stainless to me, which would make sense considering the tension it has to handle when tightening the port dog. It isn't a solid piece, but spiroled as it's name suggests. The dog cost $20 bucks, the knob was $25 and the pin was $2.00. Hope this helps.
Tom K.