CD27 Fuel tank removel

[Sandy D.]

Hey folks,
I'm going to remove my fuel tank and clean it out. While I'm at it I will be replacing the fuel lines. I'm looking for any advise,problems to watch out for,any thing else I should do "while I'm at it"? Thanks guys/gals.

FairWinds
-Sandy

[Steve Laume]

On my CD-30 I had to cut the tank in half to get it out. The reason I didn't mind going that route was that it had begun to seep through the bottom. Look very carefully at the bottom of the tank for any corrosion. Mine was limited and appeared to be minor but did allow fuel to seep onto the plywood platform. After having a new tank built slightly shorter to get in back in one piece I set it up on a well ventilated and draining rubber door mat. I would suggest the door mat or some similar arrangement to every owner of an aluminum tank that could possibly see moisture trapped beneath it. Other than one or two small blisters of corrosion the tank appeared to be in great shape. I hope yours is easier to get out and you find it to be in excellent shape, Steve.

[Wayne Grenier]

You may find the fuel tank is slightly larger than the cockpit seat opening. On my cd 28 they put the tanks in 1st prior to installing the motor. My steel tanks rusted at the bottom so I pulled the engine to replace them. I assume you have steel tanks as well, If you do not wish to remove the engine or cut a larger opening then smaller tanks may be the way to go. replacing the fuel lines is a big pain in the rear as any air leaks will stop your motor. I ended up using fuel injection line and most importantly fuel injection line clamps. A normal hose clamp tightens only in one spot can result in an air leak. A fuel injection line clamp tightens all the way around easily. They are available at auto supply stores along with the injection line hose (which is rated to a high psi-but I forget how high)-but may not be coast guard fire rated. The fire rated marine fuel line simply has the same inside diameter but is thicker overall. I assume to give it some fire resistance. But I have seen the same use of fuel injection line and fuel injection clamps on the generator on a Hunter-so who knows-The lines must be filled with fuel 1st prior to installation and then expect to have to chase down some leaks.
Fuel tanks can be custom made and ordered from several manufactures from the back of the trade magazines. They are aluminum and coated in epoxy and are not expensive. They are coast guard approved. You will have to submit a mechanical drawing of the tanks showing the dia-length-location of the fill opening, the vent opening the fuel outlet opening, and the dia of each.
If you want more technical help feel free to e-mail me direct-thanks-diesel stinks and a leaky fuel tank is not good-if it leaks into the bilge it will get pumped overboard and if you have a catastrophic failure of the tank you may find your boat surrounded by oil booms and the clean harbors guys and a news crew and a bill for 10k that you boat insurance carrier will deny due to the "pollution exclusion" in your policy. (that never happened to me-but it can)-then they'll close the clam beds and they will sue you for loss of income-etc.=-
ps-there are plastic bladder tanks that you could use as a temporary measure as well.-

[J D]

If I were to remove my tank, I would cut an access hole large enough to except my hand and arm for future inspection and maintenance. You would have to drill and tap holes around the hole in order to bolt a gasket and cover on but short of a total failure of your tank you would never have to remove it again.

[RonE58]

I removed my fuel tank last year, after I suspected that I had gunk in my tank after years of minimal use. It wasn't that big of a deal. I removed everything out of the locker and went inside. I had to widen the panel with a small hand saw and then I slide out the tank into the locker. Following an earlier post I put a 5 foot chain inside the tank, make sure you tie the chain to a line. I filled the tank with soapy water and shook it a round. Plenty of guck came out as I rinsed the tank with a hose. After a through cleaning and rinsing and time to dry out I slide the tank back into place and replaced the fuel hoses.
Ron

[Warren S]

I wished I had thought of the chain method: i used a few handfuls of old drywall screws. They were easy enough to dump back out, but the chain would have been 1) easier and 2) heavier and more effective without a 2nd application necessary.

After all that, I decided the initial pitting and corrosion where it contacted the supports warranted a new tank (thanks for the rubber door mat idea, Steve).

[Sandy D.]

Ron
Do you have an access port where you put the chain in? I was hoping the hole where the gauge and intake attach will be big enough. I also thought I would rinse the tank with a couple quarts of fuel to make sure I get rid of all the water.

I have to assume the fuel lines are original and feel its time to replace them,before one fails. Any advice/tips on removal and re-installation would be great. Thanks
-Sandy

[RonE58]

Sandy
The chain I used fit into the tanks intake hole. As I said I let the hose flush through until the water was free of suds. After letting the tank dry for a while ,I stuck a heat gun into the intake hole and dried up the remaining water droplets.
Good luck,
Ron

[Stan W.]

After letting the tank dry for a while ,I stuck a heat gun into the intake hole and dried up the remaining water droplets.

With gas this would be tantamount to suicide and even with diesel I don't think it's a safe practice. How can you be sure there won't be enough residual vapor to turn the tank into a bomb? I would stick with air drying and if you want to accelerate that I would only blow in unheated air.

[Warren S]

Alcohol from your nifty pressurized stove works well (i cup or so) to recombine the water droplets and carry them off. Will speed evaporation thereafter.

Yes I know: definitely no heat drying here - use extreme caution