Fuel Filters

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Mar 24th, '08, 18:28

Hello to all

I installed a new Racor filter last season. In the process I thought I remembered reading about not using teflon tape on the threads of the fittings. Having nothing else on hand at the time, I used Teflon tape.

When I replaced the filter element this week, I noticed some minor leakage and thought "shouldn't have use the Teflon Tape". So if I cant use teflon, what should I use? Plumber dope or something like that?

TIA & fair winds

Evergreen · Post by **Evergreen** » Mar 24th, '08, 19:38

If I remember correctly you just need to replace the gasket that comes with each new filter. Nothing else.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Mar 24th, '08, 19:53

Depending on the type of filter, I usually dip my pointer finger in fresh oil and wipe a film on both sides of the gasket before assembly.

It doesn't hurt to apply some No-Ox type anti-oxide compound on softer metal threads to prevent any galling and help future removal.

O J

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Mar 24th, '08, 20:06

Gentlemen, I am talking about the "nipples" that the fuel lines connect to! Not the replace element/filter, but the actual brass (or what ever they are) thingys that screw in the the actual "filter housing".

Sorry for the confusion.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Mar 24th, '08, 20:20

If I remember correctly the Racor 500 series that I installed a few years ago had straight thread fittings with o-rings, not standard tapered pipe fittings. I am not sure if this is true of all Racor filters.

Jim Davis · Post by **Jim Davis** » Mar 24th, '08, 20:21

Use JB Weld. Of course you have to clean everything first. Acetone is good for removing every last trace of oil from the threads.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Mar 24th, '08, 20:34

Bill,

If it's the ground seat, rounded off type male-female connector or tubing with ferrule or flared end fitting, like on a brake line, I don't use any teflon or similar sealant.

Maybe think of the mating surfaces as those in a non ferous union in a sweat copper line. Maybe a little lube on the threads to prevent galling or cross threading. The machined seats prevent leakage. Teflon is unnecessary.

O J

Carter Brey · Post by **Carter Brey** » Mar 24th, '08, 22:07

Hey, Bill,

Last year I changed the outflow hose on my Racor MA500 and used the yellow teflon tape. I haven't had any problems.

For what it's worth, which is probably damned little.

Carter

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Mar 25th, '08, 08:30

Does the filter housing assembly fitting have an angled surface? If so, those type of fittings rely on the angled surfaces mating and doing the sealing. The addition of tape prevents the two angled surfaces from getting mating and sealing.

Ed Haley · Post by **Ed Haley** » Mar 25th, '08, 09:37

Another problem with using teflon tape, after the filter especially, is that sometimes the tape frays a bit and then enters the fuel supply line to the injectors. Once that happens, the high pressure pump or injectors usually fail when the bits of tape starts to impede the flow of fuel. You don't want this to happen.

The nipples are self-sealing flare or compression joints. If you can't get a good seal you may have to replace the joint interface.

BillNH · Post by **BillNH** » Mar 25th, '08, 10:32

Permatex makes a thread sealant that is recommended for fuel & oil applications. Comes in a small tube, available at most auto parts suppliers. Use a thin bead on clean surfaces, get all the old tape cleaned out first. I've used this on several installations over the years and they've all been problem-free. You can also undo the fitting when you ultimately need to as its not an adhesive...

Evergreen · Post by **Evergreen** » Mar 25th, '08, 18:17

Permatex was also recommended to us by a diesel engine supplier when we were installing a vacuum guage on the top of our Racor filter. We used it and it worked well.

M. R. Bober · Post by **M. R. Bober** » Mar 25th, '08, 18:47

As long as your hands are going to stink of diesel, may I suggest the installation of a fuel shut off valve at the intake side of the primary filter. It's a little thing that CD seemed to overlook.

"Only one soap can clean these hands. Lava."

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster (where I worked in my local boatyard, today, at sub-sub minimum wage), VA

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » May 21st, '08, 10:44

There are basically 2 choices for Racor filters. The "Turbine" series which cost a bit more and are physically larger but the replacement elements are less expensive or the spin on series which cost less initially but the replacement elements cost a little more. Each has good and bad features. We have a Racor 500MA2 which is a "Turbine" series with the metal shield. You should read the link below about ABYC requirements. I believe some of the spin on series have a built-in primer pump which would be a nice feature. Oh we did install a shutoff valve at the filter intake. Since all of our engines suck little fuel I suspect the gallons per hour rating is of little concern. The 500MA2 is rated at 60 gph, we don't use 60 gallons in a season! Shop around prices vary significantly!

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ements.htm

jddj · Post by **jddj** » May 21st, '08, 11:38

I used liquid teflon from NAPA. Sets up after 24 hr - no leaks from elbows or other brass fittings.
jim

The Cape Dory Board

Fuel Filters

Fuel Filters

Replace the gasket with each change

Replacing The Filter

opps

The advice I got from a mechanic

Filter Body Connections

Thread sealant for Racor

Teflon problems

Permatex

Smelly hands

Racor Filters - Choices

Liquid Teflon