C-Tech
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
John Nuttall
Re: C-Tech
John,Has anyone ever used C-tech's "Bristol Finish" on their brightwork? Would like to know how well it lives up to it's makers claims regarding appearance, durability, and application ease.
I would like to know about this product too. Have you found any more about it? Please include your e-mail address with your posts so I can contact you off board. Thanks.
John nuttall
s/v Aimless
cd31 #28
Oriental, NC
nuttallj@msn.com
-
John
Re: C-Tech
Yeah John I have obtained more info on C-Tech's Bristol Finish. I spoke with the company and they said it is an acrylic urethane finish. According to them it looks exactly like traditional varnish, crystal clear, high gloss. It is a two part product with a 6 hour pot life. It can be mixed in any size quantity, I forgot the ratio, I think it was 8:1 or something close to that.John,Has anyone ever used C-tech's "Bristol Finish" on their brightwork? Would like to know how well it lives up to it's makers claims regarding appearance, durability, and application ease.
I would like to know about this product too. Have you found any more about it? Please include your e-mail address with your posts so I can contact you off board. Thanks.
John nuttall
s/v Aimless
cd31 #28
Oriental, NC
They said it lasts 2 years in south Florida before a maintenance coat needs to be applied. They recommend a light sand with 220 and one fresh coat applied. Then repeat the the process again in two years.
They said no stripping is ever necessary because there isn't a build-up problem because the sun degrades one coat in about two years time and then another coat is removed when sanded with the 220 at scheduled maintenance.
The only way to remove all the finish is to heavily sand it or use a fiberglass paint remover like Interlux's "Pintoff". You can't use a heat gun, it won't put a dent in the stuff according to C-tech.
They say if you are in a more northern climate it will last three to four years before a maintenance coat needs to be applied.
They stated several custom builders are their biggest customers. They mentioned Palmer Johnson in particular.
Sounds good to me except I'm a little concerned about the prospect of removing it if the finish did start to fail. I think if all woodwork joints are tight and woodwork bedding is good then there would be good resistance to water getting under the finish and the stuff would last a long time. I saw a boat once that used a poly-urethane finish on the brightwork that failed because water got into crevices at wood joints at the end grain and that was the beginning of the end of the beautiful urethane finish. In time it started peeling in sheets, was very difficult to remove. That was a "poly" version not a "acrylic" version so I don't know if this C-Tech stuff would have the same problem but I aim to find out.
I may use it on some small stuff like the cockpit table, dorade box etc. as a test and then decide from there whether to use it on everything else. It sells for around $40 a quart. Cheap if it works.
-
John Nuttall
Re: C-Tech
Thanks John,
I called C-Tech and Honey Teak. I also read some stuff about synthetic finishes on the Wooden Boat forum. Here is what I learned in addition to what you mentioned
C-Tech was started by some folks that left Honey Teak (signature finishes) 'cause they wanted to make the product easier to use, and less expensive.....or maybe just more profitable, who knows!
Anyway they are pretty proud of their stuff, claim it is the hardest finish you'll find this side of industrial gray floor coatings, and it is half the price of Honey Teak, and they claim it looks just like traditional spar varnish...hmmmm.
Both products need the same prep, and can be put on in air temp ranges from 30 to 100 - two extremes I'd avoid !
The C-tech is a 2 part mix with a long pot life and truley no sanding between coats and you can easily get the required 6 coats on in a day, depending on how cold it is. I think you have up to a week between coats. After that, scruffing up with scotchbrite or 220 is needed??? Maintenance coats, just scuff and coat - he said every 2 to 3 yrs for me in NC.
The Honey teak is a 2 step 5 coat process. You put on the Honey part first 3 coats, then the 2 clear. I don't think it'll tack up as quick, and geting all 5 coats on in one day may not be possible unless it's really warm outside.
Fixing dings and repairs was the same for both, sand down to wood and build back up, it's self feathering.....hmmmmmm.... As for removal - In either case you gotta sand it off. They both said heat wont soften it up. C-Tech mentioned paint remover, but I think that's the $8.00 a pint stuff from Interlu$$ !
Shelf life for unused material was about the same, about 8 yrs. Heck alot of the stuff about these products seemed the same....no wondeer eh?
On balance it SEEMS to me the C-Tech is easier and cheaper for the initial application, with easier maintenance coats. The only down side to it, if it is a down side, is that I cant find a review of the product by Practical Sailor or Wooden Boat or some such AUTHORITATIVE outfit....
I am gonna get a qt of C-Tech, do the cockpit table first and see what happens. If I can get it to work, then it's idiot proof for sure!!!
Wish me luck,
John Nuttall
nuttall@msn.com
I called C-Tech and Honey Teak. I also read some stuff about synthetic finishes on the Wooden Boat forum. Here is what I learned in addition to what you mentioned
C-Tech was started by some folks that left Honey Teak (signature finishes) 'cause they wanted to make the product easier to use, and less expensive.....or maybe just more profitable, who knows!
Anyway they are pretty proud of their stuff, claim it is the hardest finish you'll find this side of industrial gray floor coatings, and it is half the price of Honey Teak, and they claim it looks just like traditional spar varnish...hmmmm.
Both products need the same prep, and can be put on in air temp ranges from 30 to 100 - two extremes I'd avoid !
The C-tech is a 2 part mix with a long pot life and truley no sanding between coats and you can easily get the required 6 coats on in a day, depending on how cold it is. I think you have up to a week between coats. After that, scruffing up with scotchbrite or 220 is needed??? Maintenance coats, just scuff and coat - he said every 2 to 3 yrs for me in NC.
The Honey teak is a 2 step 5 coat process. You put on the Honey part first 3 coats, then the 2 clear. I don't think it'll tack up as quick, and geting all 5 coats on in one day may not be possible unless it's really warm outside.
Fixing dings and repairs was the same for both, sand down to wood and build back up, it's self feathering.....hmmmmmm.... As for removal - In either case you gotta sand it off. They both said heat wont soften it up. C-Tech mentioned paint remover, but I think that's the $8.00 a pint stuff from Interlu$$ !
Shelf life for unused material was about the same, about 8 yrs. Heck alot of the stuff about these products seemed the same....no wondeer eh?
On balance it SEEMS to me the C-Tech is easier and cheaper for the initial application, with easier maintenance coats. The only down side to it, if it is a down side, is that I cant find a review of the product by Practical Sailor or Wooden Boat or some such AUTHORITATIVE outfit....
I am gonna get a qt of C-Tech, do the cockpit table first and see what happens. If I can get it to work, then it's idiot proof for sure!!!
Wish me luck,
John Nuttall
nuttall@msn.com
-
John
Re: C-Tech
Like I said in my e-mail to you I'm going to wait to hear feed back from real world users before I spend $50 /quart on something I may need a belt sander and 40 grit to remove. Like I said in my e-mail I've seen first hand what happens and what a nightmare it can be to remove failed 2-part urethane finishes. I'm concerned about a 220 grit prep before application. That doesn't leave much tooth for a finish to grip, especially on an oily wood like teak. What if it lifts?Thanks John,
I called C-Tech and Honey Teak. I also read some stuff about synthetic finishes on the Wooden Boat forum. Here is what I learned in addition to what you mentioned
C-Tech was started by some folks that left Honey Teak (signature finishes) 'cause they wanted to make the product easier to use, and less expensive.....or maybe just more profitable, who knows!
Anyway they are pretty proud of their stuff, claim it is the hardest finish you'll find this side of industrial gray floor coatings, and it is half the price of Honey Teak, and they claim it looks just like traditional spar varnish...hmmmm.
Both products need the same prep, and can be put on in air temp ranges from 30 to 100 - two extremes I'd avoid !
The C-tech is a 2 part mix with a long pot life and truley no sanding between coats and you can easily get the required 6 coats on in a day, depending on how cold it is. I think you have up to a week between coats. After that, scruffing up with scotchbrite or 220 is needed??? Maintenance coats, just scuff and coat - he said every 2 to 3 yrs for me in NC.
The Honey teak is a 2 step 5 coat process. You put on the Honey part first 3 coats, then the 2 clear. I don't think it'll tack up as quick, and geting all 5 coats on in one day may not be possible unless it's really warm outside.
Fixing dings and repairs was the same for both, sand down to wood and build back up, it's self feathering.....hmmmmmm.... As for removal - In either case you gotta sand it off. They both said heat wont soften it up. C-Tech mentioned paint remover, but I think that's the $8.00 a pint stuff from Interlu$$ !
Shelf life for unused material was about the same, about 8 yrs. Heck alot of the stuff about these products seemed the same....no wondeer eh?
On balance it SEEMS to me the C-Tech is easier and cheaper for the initial application, with easier maintenance coats. The only down side to it, if it is a down side, is that I cant find a review of the product by Practical Sailor or Wooden Boat or some such AUTHORITATIVE outfit....
I am gonna get a qt of C-Tech, do the cockpit table first and see what happens. If I can get it to work, then it's idiot proof for sure!!!
Wish me luck,
John Nuttall
I have strong concerns about the safety aspects of using Bristol Finish after contacting C-Tech.They compare it's use to Awlgrip and Imron. They can be deadly if not used properly, the solvent vapors are the problem and I believe the isocyanates are part of the risk as well. Lacquer thinner is used for all clean-up work. C-Tech would not send me a MSDS (material safety data sheet), only if I purchased the product.
Very interesting remarks regarding the apparent connections with Honey Teak. I think Practical Sailor did a test on Honey Teak last summer. Though in my opinion I don't think their product reviews are all that accurate. I really look forward to hearing about your experience doing the table. Please post a message after you finish it.
The brochure C-Tech sent me says the following:
Comparisons in Florida sun -
Bristol Finish = 24 months
Cetol = 8 months
Z-Spar Captains varnish = 4 months (I've used this and it lasts longer than they say)
Technical -
1 - 24 hours between recoats without sanding
Humidity 0 - 100%
Temp. 30 - 110 degrees
Prep sand - 220 grit
Film thickness - 6 coats minimum
Dry to touch - 1 hour (each coat)
Recoat 1 - 24 hours - no sanding
Recoat after 24 hours - sand 320 grit
Application - brush, roller or spray
Can be thinned with C-Tech reducer
May be wet sanded and buffed
Repairs blend invisibly
Completely transparent
Warm amber color
$49.95 quart ( coverage - 6 coats over 40 square feet )