For the past 8 years I have used a custom cut heavy canvas winter cover on my CD330, which was supported over a PVC frame system. The cover would extend down and cover about 3/4 of the freeboard. This past winter we did an extensive refurbishment which included a "flag blue" awlgrip hull paint. My concern, which has been confirmed by folks in my yard, is that a winter cover should not come in contact with awlgrip. The reason is based on 2 potential problems. First, the cover can trap moisture against the hull which can freeze and pull the awlgrip away from the hull. Secondly, any cover movement in the wind will leave "scuff" marks in the glossy awlgrip finish.
It was recommended that I don't use my old cover and rather use the new shrink-wrap process over the PVC frame, with a line running along my gunwale to keep the cover taught. I would then trim away any excess material below the line so the cover would only be from just below the toe rail and above.
I must admit that the thought of avoiding hoisting the 100 lb canvas cover up onto my boat is brining a smile to my face.
So here is the problem.....how do I secure a line along the gunwale to keep the cover taught, while covering the teak toe rail, and keeping the cover trimmed along the line to not cover the hull?
If I just run a line from bow to stern under the rail it will be easily pulled up midship. One suggestion was to run the line into the toe rail scuppers (although I only have 3 on each side), but then the cover would not cover the entire rail and I could easily accumulate rain/snow on my rail and adjoining deck.
What do others do that have awlgrip?
Winter Cover Suggestions Needed
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Chris Reinke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Apr 14th, '05, 14:59
- Location: CD330 - Innisfail (Gaelic for "A Little Bit Of Heaven on Earth"), Onset, MA
This works pretty well
Chris,
I have used a similar shrink wrap/pvc frame for a number of years and it works fine. Bend 3/4 pvc arches between stanchion posts, use duct tape or ties to secure them. At right angel to arches running the length of the boat affix 'purlins' of same. One at center, 2 or 3 each side spaced along arc. Get that strapping and lay it on the edge of the shrink wrap. Fold the sw with the strapping inside forming a channel. Weld the sw to itself with the heat gun. Clamp this along your rub rail with spring clamps. Get the sw up over the frame, cut to size and repeat the strapping/welding process on the other side , it's kind of like a belt around the boat. Make 5 or 6 slits spaced evenly along boats length so you can tie lengths of strapping to the band and run them under the keel and tie them off on the opposite side. Fire up the gun and shrink away. This type of cover can be removed and reused many times and easily repaired when you poke a hole in it. I have used the same sw for 5 yrs.....and counting.
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I have used a similar shrink wrap/pvc frame for a number of years and it works fine. Bend 3/4 pvc arches between stanchion posts, use duct tape or ties to secure them. At right angel to arches running the length of the boat affix 'purlins' of same. One at center, 2 or 3 each side spaced along arc. Get that strapping and lay it on the edge of the shrink wrap. Fold the sw with the strapping inside forming a channel. Weld the sw to itself with the heat gun. Clamp this along your rub rail with spring clamps. Get the sw up over the frame, cut to size and repeat the strapping/welding process on the other side , it's kind of like a belt around the boat. Make 5 or 6 slits spaced evenly along boats length so you can tie lengths of strapping to the band and run them under the keel and tie them off on the opposite side. Fire up the gun and shrink away. This type of cover can be removed and reused many times and easily repaired when you poke a hole in it. I have used the same sw for 5 yrs.....and counting.
________
New mexico medical marijuana dispensary
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:44, edited 1 time in total.
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Chris Reinke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Apr 14th, '05, 14:59
- Location: CD330 - Innisfail (Gaelic for "A Little Bit Of Heaven on Earth"), Onset, MA
Hi Ron - Thanks for the reply.
I am a bit confused. Do your straps running under the keel come in contact with the hull? My local yard guy told me we could not have anything running under the hull because it would leave marks where it contacted the freeboards.
You also reuse the shrink wrap? I had no idea that you could reuse it. Do you just remove it carefully and stretch it back over the frame the following year, or do you have to make changes to it?
I am a bit confused. Do your straps running under the keel come in contact with the hull? My local yard guy told me we could not have anything running under the hull because it would leave marks where it contacted the freeboards.
You also reuse the shrink wrap? I had no idea that you could reuse it. Do you just remove it carefully and stretch it back over the frame the following year, or do you have to make changes to it?
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Mark Yashinsky
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 15:24
- Location: 1980 CD27, #173
Second Chance
Take a look at other painted boats at the Club.
Have your Father come down and take a look.
They have been running teh perimeter band from stanchion to stanchion and not use any belly straps. The shrinkwrap does not extend all the way to or past the rubrail. I can send a PM if your Father wants to know which boats to look at or just have come down and find me.
They have been running teh perimeter band from stanchion to stanchion and not use any belly straps. The shrinkwrap does not extend all the way to or past the rubrail. I can send a PM if your Father wants to know which boats to look at or just have come down and find me.
stay with the canvas
I have a one piece Fairclough 100% cotton canvas cover that comes well below the boot top. After 11 years the flag blue still looks great. I believe the sun will do far more damage than the cover over time. The frames are angled so that they pass over the stanchions, out beyond the rails and then back in to set on the deck such that the canvas does not come in contact with the topsides for several feet below the rubstrake and it's snug enough that it does not move much until it really howls. This angle also helps cut into the wind instead of catching it. Kinda like the wind thing they put on the Whitestone bridge after it's sister, galloping gertie, was ruined by the harmonics of the wind. Robinhood recomended this cover and the local shipwright covers his Awl gripped hull as well as others he has Awlgripped. One word of warning to all considering a cover at all: Don't fasten the frames to the stanchions. The wind will work them and flex the deck creating a stress that can damage the deck and allow for water to get in. Especially since the frame will be verticle and present more resistance to the wind. I speak from experience as I did this to my beloved Alberg 35 and spent many an hour repairing the mistakes.
GD
http://www.jeff-smith-photography.com/C ... large.html
GD
http://www.jeff-smith-photography.com/C ... large.html
Chris,
Yes, the strapping does contact the hull but I have noticed no ill effects from this, my hull is gelcoat........I suppose you could pad the strapping.
As I stated I've used the same sw for 5 years. Loosen the 'belt', undo the lines under the keel and it comes right off. Fold it up. I store mine in a plastic trash barrel in the shed.
I have not noticed much stress on the stanchions. My arches are high enough to allow me to stand in the cockpit,(5'-8")-I wouldn't go much taller. When it blows the cover breathes in and out dissipating it's force and the pvc will flex some. It hasn't been an issue.
________
Vaporite solo
Yes, the strapping does contact the hull but I have noticed no ill effects from this, my hull is gelcoat........I suppose you could pad the strapping.
As I stated I've used the same sw for 5 years. Loosen the 'belt', undo the lines under the keel and it comes right off. Fold it up. I store mine in a plastic trash barrel in the shed.
I have not noticed much stress on the stanchions. My arches are high enough to allow me to stand in the cockpit,(5'-8")-I wouldn't go much taller. When it blows the cover breathes in and out dissipating it's force and the pvc will flex some. It hasn't been an issue.
________
Vaporite solo
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:44, edited 1 time in total.
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Chris Reinke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Apr 14th, '05, 14:59
- Location: CD330 - Innisfail (Gaelic for "A Little Bit Of Heaven on Earth"), Onset, MA
Thanks for the feedback - Here is what we are doing....
As always, the board has provided some great feedback. I appreciate it.
After listening to all the suggestions we have taken a few good points from each persona nd come up with a game plan.
We will continue to use our heavy canvas cover. The cost of shrinkwrap is excessive since we keep our mast up and could not re-use the shrinkwrap. The canvas cover extends below the waterline so it provides the best protection for the hull paint, and also the toe rail. We will secure the vertical supports to only the base of the stanchions so any vibration or tension does not cause excessive tension on the stanchion bases. We will run an additional horizontal stringer on each side at the height of the lifelines to replace the lateral support the stanchions provided. We will also run a second horizontal stringer about 12 inches outboard of the toe rail to keep the cover extended away from my new hull paint.
Thank again for everyone suggestions.
After listening to all the suggestions we have taken a few good points from each persona nd come up with a game plan.
We will continue to use our heavy canvas cover. The cost of shrinkwrap is excessive since we keep our mast up and could not re-use the shrinkwrap. The canvas cover extends below the waterline so it provides the best protection for the hull paint, and also the toe rail. We will secure the vertical supports to only the base of the stanchions so any vibration or tension does not cause excessive tension on the stanchion bases. We will run an additional horizontal stringer on each side at the height of the lifelines to replace the lateral support the stanchions provided. We will also run a second horizontal stringer about 12 inches outboard of the toe rail to keep the cover extended away from my new hull paint.
Thank again for everyone suggestions.
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Phil Shedd
- Posts: 222
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 09:53
- Location: CD31 Gamblin' #25
Rothesay NB Canada
Membership # 89
cover
Here in the northeast I have the cover on and right now I am glad as the hurricane Noel is going to pay a visit this weekend. I am reasonable sheltered so the wind should not be a factor.
The frame for the cover is 2x3 and strapping. Goes together with out much trouble. The cover a poly woven tarp . I get a couple years out of it then replace it . The cost about $70.00 . I then cover the tarp with a net. This stops the trap from flapping and working holes in it self. I adjust the rope tension after a couple weeks and leave it to spring.
Phil
The frame for the cover is 2x3 and strapping. Goes together with out much trouble. The cover a poly woven tarp . I get a couple years out of it then replace it . The cost about $70.00 . I then cover the tarp with a net. This stops the trap from flapping and working holes in it self. I adjust the rope tension after a couple weeks and leave it to spring.
Phil