Couple of quetions on my new to me Typhoon
Inside, theres an opening that looks to me like its a bilge...if theres any water in that area does that need to be pumped out manually?
About two feet behind the winches on the deck surface, there are on each side a round hardware plate mounted to the deck with a threaded hole in the middle...bout two inches in diameter..whats this for..am I missing some hardware?..thanks
I just got my canon digy camera back from repair and took a picture of the bow where my damage is ...hopefully I can get that picture over here and get alittle help on the repair...
Two Typhoon Questions
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Heres My Bow Problem...Its down to the mat
http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r234 ... G_9801.jpg
Has anyone done this kind of repair...the areas about 2x3 inches..the mat is exposed...and is soft in the middle...I've used marine tex to fill in voids but on a much smaller level...would that product work on this or would it be advisable to let a professional do this..thanks.
Has anyone done this kind of repair...the areas about 2x3 inches..the mat is exposed...and is soft in the middle...I've used marine tex to fill in voids but on a much smaller level...would that product work on this or would it be advisable to let a professional do this..thanks.
Last edited by shavdog on Oct 22nd, '07, 20:58, edited 1 time in total.
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Warren S
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Cape Dory 270 Hull #5
Washington, NC
Unless the typhoon owners already know...
Can you include a pic of the threaded holes near the winches?
"Being hove to in a long gale is the most boring way of being terrified I know." -Donald Hamilton
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Lang
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Epoxy paint
I wouldnt use putty. I think it cracks after some time (like 2 yrs).
I would probably paint a few coats of epoxy over the bare spot, then paint over with International perfection. Since it is right there in the centre, there might be ways to make it not look so much like patchwork. Or maybe you can paint the whole topside.
I would probably paint a few coats of epoxy over the bare spot, then paint over with International perfection. Since it is right there in the centre, there might be ways to make it not look so much like patchwork. Or maybe you can paint the whole topside.
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Lew Gresham
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The damage I see to the starboard side of the hull and is not a difficult repair. The way I would repair this, is to clean the matt with Acetone after removing any loose fiberglass and cracked gel coat and use Cabosil and Epoxy. Mix to peanut butter consistency and fill the damaged area and finish with gel coat. If you planning to paint the boat, just sand smooth. Good luck!
Weekender
hull #914
hull #914
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The Patriot
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Re: Heres My Bow Problem...Its down to the mat
Depending on how involved you want to get with this repair, I'd suggest you read up a bit on the West System. They have several pamphlets that specifically cover what you want to do with step-by-step instructions. A bit pricey, but the results will be quite good once you get the "hang" of it.shavdog wrote: ... Has anyone done this kind of repair...the areas about 2x3 inches..the mat is exposed...and is soft in the middle...
Ouch!
What you are calling the mat is actually the next layer called woven roving. Where you can see mat is around the fringe of the hole. It looks like someone ground the mat away in an attempt to make a crude but quick repair using thickened polyester or epoxy. As you can see, that kind of repair is structurally weak and will fail when it gets hit again.
Instead, you should feather the edges back to expose mat that is still bonded to the roving and then replace the missing mat layer or layers. Only use thickened resin to fair things smooth and then finish with gelcoat. This is a do-able DIY project. I agree with kerrydeare that the WEST System Pamphlet would be a good place to start. There is also a Don Casey book on fiberglass hull repair that is very good.
Instead, you should feather the edges back to expose mat that is still bonded to the roving and then replace the missing mat layer or layers. Only use thickened resin to fair things smooth and then finish with gelcoat. This is a do-able DIY project. I agree with kerrydeare that the WEST System Pamphlet would be a good place to start. There is also a Don Casey book on fiberglass hull repair that is very good.
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Appleton68
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Bilge
Yes, pump out the bilge manually. I have a long plastic hand pump & I add a long tube to spout and pump the blige out to the deck floor of the cockpit & the water drains out the self bailers.
Greg
Thanks for everyones replies..Without getting too far into this, I do believe I need to strengthen the area where the woven material is exposed...I may get a fiberglas repair kit that includes the mat and build that area up...then I would finish off with gelcoat providing that sticks to the mat repair...that sound reasonable?...I know the west systems great but I don't want to spend that much time on this...
The time will be the same.
The only difference is WEST System is epoxy resin and the kit probably is polyester resin. They each have pros and cons. Epoxy makes a stronger repair, but gelcoat supposedly sticks better to polyester.
Also, the kit probably uses fiberglass cloth which is not the same thing as fiberglass mat but which might work o.k. for your purposes. FWIW, I checked the 1981 Owners Manual on the CDSOA website and it states that CD used two layers of mat before the first layer of woven roving.
Also, the kit probably uses fiberglass cloth which is not the same thing as fiberglass mat but which might work o.k. for your purposes. FWIW, I checked the 1981 Owners Manual on the CDSOA website and it states that CD used two layers of mat before the first layer of woven roving.