"Cavitation" of O/B motor on Ty Weekender

[Sea Hunt]

As many know, I am now looking at a CD Ty Weekender located in SW Florida.

I have an issue of concern to me - one of many. The owner, a very nice gentleman, advised me that when you go forward to the bow to hank on the jib/genoa, you must first turn off the O/B motor or the prop will come out of the water and "cavitate" (not sure if this is the correct term for this). His O/B motor is a 2005 Suzuki 6hp 4 stroke model#DF6LK5. It's a 20 in. shaft which I believe is Suzuki's "long shaft". Their "short shaft" is 15".

I have looked at several CD Ty Weekenders and sailed one other one. No one ever mentioned this as an issue. I also looked on this site to see if the issue had been addressed. I am not very computer literate but I could not find a discussion of this issue.

My concern is this. Please remember I am a true "tadpole". I was taught that when away from a dock or mooring you must ALWAYS have some means of propulsion/steerage, whether motor power or sail power. If you leave the dock under power, before cutting the engine, you must raise the sails (at least one - preferably the jib). Then cut the engine. In this way, if there is a problem with the sail, you have steerage and do not have to worry about trying to start the engine. When returning, the same principle in reverse. Before lowering sails, start the engine. Then lower sails.

If I must turn off this Suzuki 2005 6hp 4 stroke BEFORE going forward to hank on the jib, that seems like it could be a problem for a "tadpole".

Two questions:

1. Is anyone aware of this issue on other CD Ty Weekenders That is, specifically, when going forward to the bow, the stern rises up and the O/B motor shaft comes out of the water I assume this probably would not happen if someone else remained in the cockpit near the stern, but I will be singlehanding mostly - especially now that the Admiral has departed. Again, Oswego John, not sure which "Emoticon" to use for this development.

2. Any ideas of a "work around" I have thought of two options. One, hank on the jib at the mooring/dock. Then raise the jib from the cockpit with the halyard that leads back to the cockpit via the mast. The problem with this is keeping the jib on deck and not dragging through the water (ala Emirates Team New Zealand in race 5). A second option would be to install a roller furler. This is expensive. Now that the Admiral has departed funds are even more limited than they were before.

So, bottom line, have others experienced this issue and, if so, what are solutions

Thanks in advance and again my apologies for cluttering up this board with my silly and amateurish questions.

I am very grateful for everyones patience, understanding and assistance.

[Tim Mertinooke]

I always hanked the jib before I left and got the main ready to go while I was at the dock or mooring. They were both ready to deploy in about 30 seconds.

The engine I had on my former Typhoon was a Honda 2hp and one reason was that it was air cooled and had a centrifugal clutch (which most other air cooled engines do not have) so that it could remain in neutral when I wanted it to. If the outboard were to come out of the water temporarily while I was at the front of the boat it would be fine.

There are a couple ways to combat the issue, one would be to have a second halyard that you could use to pull the sail down for you from the cockpit, then sheet the sail in tight and it will behave unless there is a lot of wind. Or you could go rollerfurl making the point moot. You can also anchor from the cockpit in order to get your sails down and put away before starting the motor.

"Thanks in advance and again my apologies for cluttering up this board with my silly and amateurish questions."

No such thing. Keep them coming, you can bet others had the same question. Tim

[Dick Villamil]

I have a Ty Weekender with an older long shaft motor - and everytime I go to the bow the motor comes part way out of the water - it even happened with my Morgan 24. Since the motor is mounted on deck it is high off the water and the low weight and long lever arm of the boat witha large weight on the bow will lift the engine out. I solved that by using a roller furling jib and a long handled canoe paddle for tight spots. When you are motoring into a good chop you will also get cavitation unless you are in the stern (then water comes up the rudder post. Therefore I suggest tacking into the chop with the motor on - even using a reefed main to motor sail should reduce the potential of cavitation. I also have a trailer for the Ty just for storage and if I ever want to take her else where. After some modifications I am able to haul and launch her pretty easily - mostly with a friend and a lot of local helpful (?) comments while at the launch site. Generally do this once a year before and after ice forms or melts. All I need is waist deep water and I don't even have an extension on the trailer (future plan however). That way if a hurricane comes along you can drive the Ty to safety. She tows easily with an SUV.

[Neil Gordon]

>> If you leave the dock under power, before cutting the engine, you must raise the sails (at least one - preferably the jib).<<

Conventional wisdom would suggest raising the main first, then the jib. Vice versa dropping them coming back.

>>Then cut the engine. In this way, if there is a problem with the sail, you have steerage and do not have to worry about trying to start the engine.<<

Have the engine running and your 10,000% more likely to snag a loose line in the prop.

Just consider your surroundings. Inside the marina, there's little room for error. On the bay, however, there's time and space to deal with issues/problems. Rely on your boat as a sailboat and you'll be fine even if the motor doesn't behave.

[Jim Davis]

With my wifes Ty Daysailor it is normal for the prop to come out of the water when single handing and I am on the bow. It is a long shaft. I usually just put the engine in neutral and the brief period of time doesn't hurt anything. If you are really worried about this issue, turn the outboard off before raising the sails.

I second the comment about the main being first up, last down under most circumstances. A trick here is to raise the main with the sheets completely slack - the boat will lie at about 45 degrees to the wind and just sit there while you do the jib.

[Gary M]

Sea Hunt,

I normally sail in and out of my slip but there are occasions where I want to motor out and raise sails later.

I hank on my jib at the dock and secure it with large rubber bands (I keep a box of these on board) to either the fore deck cleat or my anchor hardware but even wrapping rubber bands around the sail to keep it from catching the wind would help

The rubber bands hold the jib secure, then when I raise the jib the rubber bands break and let the sail loose.

Second, I have a down haul rigged for the jib so when I need to I can point into the wind and pull the sail to the deck with out leaving the cock pit. Of course I still go forward and use the sheets to secure it to the deck.

Also consider the engine. Since it is a late model I think you should be able to cut it off and have confidence that when you need it, it will fire right back up.

You might also want to have some one look at the engine when you are on the fore deck to find out if it is still pumping water. I've been told to never letter the impeller run dry but in your case you may be just hearing a loud exhaust, but the engine is still pumping water. Just a thought.

Good Luck with the Ty
Gary

[Pete S]

I have the same issue. I have the straight motor mount. I think with the angled mount it's not as bad.

[Sea Hunt]

I just looked at the Spartan Marine website. The O/B motor mount (B127) is "angled". I never saw this before in any of the other Tys I have looked at. I just assumed they were all the same.

I am in the process of checking with the current owner to see if the motor mount he has is "squared" or "angled". Because I never knew there was a difference I never looked yesterday when I inspected this Ty.

This may well be the solution to that issue. Thanks Pete.

Fair winds,

[Lang]

Sea Hunt,

I have a 5HP Suzuki 4stroke OB. 1 less HP compared to yours.

I leave jib hanked on and bagged while in port. Before cast off, jib will be unbagged and sheets led thru the fairlead. I run a gasket around the jib so it doesnt flop into the water.

I will only start motor when boat is ready to go. Then cast off. When I am ready to hoist jib, I set OB in neutral, go up to the chainplate, pull on the gasket to release the jib, pull on the jib halyard. All done in less than 30secs.

I never needed to go full up on the bow to do anything while motoring, except when I needed to put my anchor line into that bronze plate on the bow...(whats that called?) I skip up and back so quick, I dont think its a problem for the OB.

My experience with the same OB out of water is when we have a big choppy day out. Still, it doesnt seem to hurt at all. Wont worry about. However, I have found that if the Suzuki remain idling in neutral for a minute, the impeller seems to stop... maybe its a problem on my OB. My temporary fix for that is to rev up a little and soon enough a splutter of smoke and water starts trickling again. The owners manual suggest that the when in operation, the OB may be damaged if it is dry for 20secs. So I am mindful of that.

May the winds always be fair... and OB never needed.

Lang.