Known Problem Areas with 27 & 28?

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jeffrey
Posts: 4
Joined: Sep 27th, '07, 13:56
Location: Catalina 22

Known Problem Areas with 27 & 28?

Post by jeffrey »

Hi Everyone,

I just looked at two 27's up in Georgetown Maine yesterday. One looked pretty good sitting in the water, the other in the middle of getting a new engine and up on stands.

The one in the water had what looked like water stains down the cabin wall under the windows. When opening a window, a little pool of water falls out (we just had rain) and I'm guessing this is normal. Do these windows tend to seep? One thing I was impressed with was the fiberglass. What a tank. The glass & Gelcoat is in better condition than I would have expected for such an old boat - 1977.

Bigger question... are there known trouble spots to look for with CD27s and CD28s?? For example, I've read that the cabin top of some can compress.

I have Don Casey's book, but I'm interested in specific issues with these models.

Thanks.

-Jeff
Anthony P. Jeske
Posts: 146
Joined: Feb 11th, '05, 10:33
Location: C&C 27 MkV
FLYING CIRCUS

Problem areas

Post by Anthony P. Jeske »

Hi Jeffrey:
As you may already know, gelcoat crazing is a non-serious problem on Cape Dory's. Another problem, worse for some of us, is their propensity to back up wildly.
I have not heard of cabin top compression problems except on older Typhoons, so I don't think that'll be an issue for you.
Deck delamination is a concern not only on Cape Dorys, but many older boats. Cape Dorys tend to have delamination issues on the foredeck and the cockpit floor, as well as the usual areas around deck mounted gear, i.e. stanchions. Any careful survey shoud uncover delamination problems.
There is a black iron plate under the bowsprit and black iron "chain plate" backers under shroud terminations on the deck. If those are found to be rusty of corroded, you'll have a costly, unpleasant and lengthly repair on your hands.
Unfortunately, many surveyors are unaware of the potential for rusty chain plates, and overlook it during their inspections.
You'll need to assure yourself that the boats you are looking at don't have these problems.
You can do a search on this web site on these topics, you'll find lot's of useful info.
While this list may seem scary, you'll be better aware of what to look for, and will end up with a fine boat that will give you many happy hours of sailing enjoyment.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-28 #365
NO REGRETS
San Diego
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Mark Yashinsky
Posts: 258
Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 15:24
Location: 1980 CD27, #173
Second Chance

27 thoughts

Post by Mark Yashinsky »

The 27 does not have a compression post under the deck stepped mast. It has a big steel H in the coach roof to transfer the mast load down to the deck and hull. If someone were to crank the shrouds up tight, they could put a dimple into the coach roof centered under the mast step. Use a tension gauge!
The crazing could be an issue, if it goes deep enough to get to any coring wood and water gets in. Same is true for any holes cut thru the deck, whose edges were not sealed w/ epoxy and/or bedding compund that is not maintained and is compromised. This is true for any boat, though.
Some have complained that the original diesel is underpowered for this size boat.
If you go thru the boat with a fine tooth comb, like a surveyor would, you would probably find most of the problems that this particular boat has. Probably most found will be age related and/or defered maintence items, rather that design flaws (other than motoring in reverse).
Neil Gordon
Posts: 4367
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 17:25
Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
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Reverse motoring

Post by Neil Gordon »

Lack of steering control while motoring in reverse is a design compromise, not a flaw. I'm pretty sure that Alberg knew what the boat would do and chose to accept it rather than sacrifice some other design feature to compensate for it.

By the way, I managed to get underway yesterday with opposing wind 10-15 knots, gusting to 20. I was tied on the leeward side of the finger and needed to point the bow up to leave the fairway. No steering in reverse required. Proceedure was as follows:

Move fenders from stbd (windward) to port (leeward).
Ease mooring lines until I'm snuggled against my neighbor.
Reverse slowly, fending off gently.
Stop when bow to bow (my neighbor was backed in) and let stern fall off to leeward.
Push off as if leaving a mooring.

No out of control steering, no panic, no yelling and no loud crunching noises.
Fair winds, Neil

s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA

CDSOA member #698
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Mark Yashinsky
Posts: 258
Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 15:24
Location: 1980 CD27, #173
Second Chance

Ok, ok, compromise is a better choice.

Post by Mark Yashinsky »

Although someones first time in reverse, in a tight or otherwise interesting situation, might use other words.

Never said that this type of boat could not be maneuvered in reverse, one just has to know about it, have at least one plan for what they want to do and have a backup plan if things go wrong. Not a bad idea for anyone with any type of boat.
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Domenic
Posts: 95
Joined: Nov 1st, '05, 16:43
Location: Cape Dory 10 Hull 1278 & Moody 45ac Janique III Liberty Landing Marina. Jersey City.

reverse

Post by Domenic »

If going in reversr is the very most Important thing in life for you. Hunters go real great in reverse. And I bet you can spend the entire day going around the Marina in reverse, in a Hunter. But, if you want a boat that goes forward well. And points and tracks like a DREAM. Then buy a Cape Dory. Domenic
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