Typhoon Hoisting

Stephen Howard · Post by **Stephen Howard** » Aug 27th, '07, 19:13

Just purchsed a 1978 Typhoon. Was all set to launch by hoisting with eye below cabin floor when I read in original owner's manual this should not be done. Friend has used this eye on his Typhoon with an aluminum frame that attaches to companionway to stabilize boat for 20 years with no problem. Please advise.

Neil Gordon · Post by **Neil Gordon** » Aug 27th, '07, 20:03

This has been discussed before. Although we don't seem to have any evidence that a ring has failed, consider this:

Compare the breaking strength of line and/or chain with the working load and you find that the safety factor is a huge multiple. Would you use 500 lb. breaking strength line to hold a 499 lb. load? I suggest that you don't use the ring either. It's not designed for lifting the boat even though it might support the working load.

Stephen Howard · Post by **Stephen Howard** » Sep 5th, '07, 17:35

Thanks for reply regarding hoisting Typhoon's. Do you have a recommendation on where I can obtain proper size slings and spreader bar frame to use with a single hook hoist? I was able to float the boat off and back on the trailer this year but only because the water level was high this year at Lake Sunapee!

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Sep 5th, '07, 21:21

Hi Stephen,

For slings, try E-Rigging

http://www.e-rigging.com/store_Categori ... ce=catalog

Also, every once in a while you can find slings on E-Bay.

For spreaders, use 2x4s with a vee notch cut in each end.

If you have trouble getting web slings, you can also substitute with rope. It can be doubled or tripled up if necessary.

The higher or longer the vee angle formed by the slings, the less inward pressure that is applied to the hull. Strive to attain no more than 45°.

Be sure to attach a light line between the bow and stern slings to prevent them from sliding apart.

Keep that stern sling away from the rudder.

Good luck,
O J

ronkberg · Post by **ronkberg** » Sep 9th, '07, 06:42

My experience last fall was with my mast down and tied to the bow pulpit and rear cleat. The boat was aligned between the slings and the lift started but at about 2-4ft, the front sling slipped forward and caught the mast as she dove back into the water. The mast bent to 45degrees and the pulpit bent upward. Rear cleat tore off and the outboard released, did a flip and into the drink. The yard fixed everything and I've had a wonderful summer.

Lessons learned, yard will not haul if the mast is unstepped and on the boat. Line will be attached to hold slings in place.

I plan to return to the same yard to be hauled this year and am sure all will go well.

Regards, Ron

RIKanaka · Post by **RIKanaka** » Sep 9th, '07, 12:23

ronkberg wrote:My experience last fall was with my mast down and tied to the bow pulpit and rear cleat. The boat was aligned between the slings and the lift started but at about 2-4ft, the front sling slipped forward and caught the mast as she dove back into the water....

Regards, Ron

I'm kind of surprised that any marina with any experience hauling out boats would fail to tie the slings together on the Typhoon. Expensive way (for the yard) to learn a lesson.

Joe Montana · Post by **Joe Montana** » Sep 9th, '07, 12:44

Another thing for a yard to be aware of when hauling a Typhoon is that the aft sling must be forward of the bottom of the rudder -- which is fairly far forward. This isn't an issue during a launch, but in the fall -- when the boat is in the water -- it's not hard for a less experienced yard worker in a rush to "eyeball" it and place the sling too far aft.

Appleton68 · Post by **Appleton68** » Sep 11th, '07, 23:12

The consensus on this Board is that you should not use the eye.
I put my Typhoon Weekender in & out every year with a small lift at my yacht club. In my experience, the front strap is just a little beyond the front of the rise of the front cabin & the rear strap is about in the rear quarter of the seating area. The type of lift is a variable. I always proceed slowly and therefore can see if adjustments need to be made.

Stephen Howard · Post by **Stephen Howard** » Sep 12th, '07, 07:39

Thanks for all the feedback on this topic. Very helpful for a new Typhoon owner. My remaining question is how to deal with the single hook hoist at my yacht club. Is everyone using separate fore and aft spreader bars hooked together on the single hoist hook or some sort of spreader bar "box" with a single eye that is hooked to the hoist and two fore and aft hooks for each sling? Also, for a the Typhoon, I believe 14ft. slings are needed for the spreader bars to clear the cabin and other deck apparatus.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Sep 12th, '07, 11:20

Hi Stephen,

When hoisting my Ty, I use two type "EE" (eye on each end) 1" web strap slings. This results in having four eyes on one hoist hook. One sling under the hull at the bow, the other under the keel about a foot ahead of the rudder.

I don't know what length slings you will eventually wind up using. As I mentioned in a previous post, the longer the slings, the less inward, crushing effect the slings will have on the hull.

Not to confuse the issue of sling length, the for'd sling should be shorter than the aft sling. If you try to hoist with equal length slings fore and aft, the stern will rise first and result in being much higher in the air than the bow. A dangerous situation.

If both slings happen to be the same length and you have lift clearance height, place one sling in the normal manner at the bow. Lengthen the stern sling with a stout length of line, each end being bowlined to each sling eye. I make a loop in the line and go around the hook twice with it. This helps prevent the line sliding across the hook, keeps it centered on the hook. Test how long this extension should be and adjust the length until the boat rises level. Mark the extension line for future use.

If you do nothing else, tie the fore and aft slings together with a piece of line to prevent slipping off the hull. Tie them on port and st'bd.

Good luck.
O J

Rollergirl · Post by **Rollergirl** » Sep 12th, '07, 12:25

Bill Murphy, who belongs to my yacht club, wrote this for piece for the Ensign Class Association. The process Bill describes is directly applicable to Tys and CD 22s. Possibly even 25s, tho it's harder to find single point hoists in the higher weight ranges at most clubs and marinas.

Please read this:
http://www.ensignclass.com/LiftingBolts.htm

May make for another hole in the cabin sole, but there is already one there. You could make an attractive teak cover for it.

Bill Bloxham
my refurbished Ensign is for sale

mike feeney · Post by **mike feeney** » Sep 14th, '07, 13:00

Steve

That might be the aluminum device we bought from Cape Dory when it was in Taunton, probably 20 years ago. They sold it to us for the specific purpose of lifting our Typhoon and we did so for years. I gave it to Paul Messer.
Four Sunapee Typhoons used to use it with the LSYC hoist.
All the device is meant to do is to stabilize the boat in the air. Without it the boat tips since the keel is not heavy enough to keep it upright when suspended.
Also, the top hatch board needs to be in place to secure the aft end of the device.

Stephen Howard · Post by **Stephen Howard** » Sep 14th, '07, 14:14

Again, thanks to all for helpful responses, including my fellow Lake Sunapee Yacht Club member Mike Feeney. I did talk to Paul Messer about the aluminum stabilizing frame he has for his Typhoon hatchway. Your comment that it was purchased directly from Cape Dory suggests Cape Dory endorsed using the ballast lifting eye underneath the cabin floor w the aluminum frame. Not trying to alarm anyone, but the original owner's manual that came w my boat says not to use this eye for lifting the boat. Maybe this is because lifting the boat with the eye would not be stable w/o the aluminum frame???

Rollergirl · Post by **Rollergirl** » Sep 14th, '07, 17:03

I know Neil says we have never heard of a lifting ring failure, so I guess it's time for me to speak up.
The first year(1995) i had 696 (my Ty) I saw the ring sticking up from my keel. My curiosity led me to tug at the ring, which led me to retrieve about one half of the ring. It was really rusted. The rest seemed to be embedded in the keel sole.

It's a sole, right, even if one would never walk on it?

So I threw the half-ring away, and proceeded to the bilge clean-up.
To my amazement, the rest of the ring washed away.

696 spent it's whole life in the Barnagat Bay estuary in New Jersey. Lower salt content (about 60% of the salt concentration of the offshore Atlantic) and a less informed PO (I had core problems) who may not have flushed the bilge (how would I really know); but I think my experience was typical from conversations I had with numerous other Ty owners down here.
I'd be really cautious about entrusting my baby to a unknown suitation like yours.
I know what you would gain, but what could you lose?

Murphy's method works (see previous post) and I urge you to err on the side of caution.

Good luck

Bill
My refurbished Ensign is for sale

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Sep 14th, '07, 18:28

Hi all,

The thought that I am concerned with is how secure is the lead ballast to the hull.

By the use of the ring, you are raising a 900 lb ballast, which through some kind of attachment, is bringing with it an 1,100 lb hull.

The hoist is lifting 900 lbs upward. Gravity is pulling 1,100 lbs downward. How great is the adhesion of the ballast to the hull? Are you sure that, through age or other reasons, it might ever be compromised? What are the risks? What are the odds of failure? What would be the resulting consequences of failure for any reason?

O J

The Cape Dory Board