Rub rail

[33 Proud]

I am replacing my rub rail. I took a piece of the old rail off and I noticed that the surface of the rail that goes against the hull is concaved. Is this to provide a place for sealant or to make the rail easier to bend or to provide some give when the boat bumps something? Do I need to duplicate this concavity in my new rail or can I just use a flat surface against the hull?

Thanks

[Steve Laume]

If I had to guess, and I am, I would call the "concavity", back relief. It would hold extra sealant but the true purpose might be to get a better fit at the edges where it shows. It is a pretty common way to achieve a better looking fit, Steve.

[Lee Kaufman]

I, too, need to replace a small section of the rub rail. How will you get the needed curvature to fit the boat?

[33 Proud]

The rub rail is only 1" x 3/4" in section and I am replacing all of the railling. So, my pieces will be long and should take a curve fairly well. Easing the back might help it bend as well.

[Ron M.]

Having had done this job on a few projects for others as well as my own I recommend getting a bunch of parallel clamps with 4", 6", and 8" jaws. You can use them vertically and horizontally and they will conform to just about any any angle with a good purchase. Clamp against the toe rail when installing the rub rail and in reverse when working the toe. Be sure to drill the correct size screw holes into the fiberglass to insure the screw will bite and pull the wood home tight against the hull without shearing,(stainless will snap easily with little torque). The channel on the bottom of the toe is a good thing. Your bedding will seal the member tight to the deck without any gaps - a flat bottom, as the deck camber changes will cause problems. The bends are achieved fairly easily.A simple jig for the scarfs will save time and keep them uniform, final fitting with a sharp chisel will give you a hairline joint. Have fun[/code]
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[Warren S]

Ron,

I don't suppose you have a photo of such a jig. Can you describe a scarf joint jig in a little more detail?

Thanks

[Ron M.]

Warren,
Sorry I don't have photos. I use a carbide pattern router bit with a ball bearing at the top of the cutting flutes. A 1/2" or 3/8" X 1" would be fine. Make a pattern out of 1/4" ply or plexiglass, allowing added length so it can be clamped to your work. Screw a length of 3/4" stock to your pattern to act as an indexing fence. Mark the scarf on your work and cut waste 1/8 - 1/16" from line. Affix your jig to the work and route the joint making sure to keep the bearing firm against the pattern.
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[Warren S]

I can picture everything but the ability to make the acute angles with the radius of that ball bearing guide. I think it's a "try it and you'll see" approach from here on in. Thanks Ron.

[Ron M.]

perhaps a 1/4" bit will accomodate the radius for you, mine were more like a 1/2". Play with it.........you'll get the picture. good luck
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