I've removed the YSM8, shaft, prop and most misc engine related parts from Puffin. After much thought and research, the best fit for my needs as a replacement engine will be a 2YM 15. I don't think I need any more power. I'm going to do the bulk of the work myself with a local Yanmar dealer to do the final install and verification of my work. Several things came up already.
First, I'm going to change my cutlass bearing. I've never changed one before. I'd really appreciate any input regarding replacing it. Also, are there any good suppliers through the Board that can provide this? Pictures will help tremendously, especially where the set screws are rumored to be.
After I replace the cutlass bearing, I'll probably have to install a longer shaft. I'll leave it extra long for fitting the new engine, then cut it to length prior to engine install. But I will probably need a new shaft and prop. Any benefits to stainless steel vs bronze for the shaft? Can I still use my existing bronze stuffing box with a ss shaft? What about the new packing? The existing seems like a waxy product stuffed in with an oakum like ring on the outside. Not a series of rings . Any ideas?
As usual, thanks in advance. I'll be here a bit in the next few days.
One more thing. Before I do the install. I'm going to clean and paint the engine area and lazerettes while everything is open. Any ideas regarding paint color? I'm going to use a heavy enameled bilge paint. It comes white and gray, but I'll tint it to any color. Any practical ideas re color?
Jim Kortleven
Puffin
1977 CD27
City Island
CD27 Cutlass bearing replacement and Yanmar 2YM 15
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Jim Kortleven
- Posts: 9
- Joined: May 20th, '05, 19:28
- Location: PuffinCD27 #100City Island, NY
CD27 Cutlass bearing replacement and Yanmar 2YM 15
Last edited by Jim Kortleven on Jun 12th, '07, 06:39, edited 2 times in total.
cutlass replacement
Hi Jim,
I replaced my cutlass last fall, no set screws in mine, it had been simply glassed in at last replacement by p.o.. Mine came out easily. It was spinning with the shaft.
For rereplacement, I got some stainless t-nuts and set screws and fiberglassed them into two holes drilled parallel with the cutlass. I think this works well if you find you don't have any set screws.
Perhaps someone knows which side is the side to look on for the screws, I don't. If there's no usual side, I'd look for any irregularities and grind a bit, especially if it isn't coming out easily. You can use that area to add screws later.
I dove on my prop the other day and it is still solid.
By the way, I'd go with a PSS dripless seal.
Best,
Chase
I replaced my cutlass last fall, no set screws in mine, it had been simply glassed in at last replacement by p.o.. Mine came out easily. It was spinning with the shaft.
For rereplacement, I got some stainless t-nuts and set screws and fiberglassed them into two holes drilled parallel with the cutlass. I think this works well if you find you don't have any set screws.
Perhaps someone knows which side is the side to look on for the screws, I don't. If there's no usual side, I'd look for any irregularities and grind a bit, especially if it isn't coming out easily. You can use that area to add screws later.
I dove on my prop the other day and it is still solid.
By the way, I'd go with a PSS dripless seal.
Best,
Chase
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Jim Kortleven
- Posts: 9
- Joined: May 20th, '05, 19:28
- Location: PuffinCD27 #100City Island, NY
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Cutlass Bearing Keeper Screws
Jim,
I don't know if all CDs are alike. I would check out the port side first. I found two allen head type, flush machine screws below the surface.
As for painting the engine area and lazerettes, I saw what a guy did with his bilge area, I liked it and have been doing it ever since.
He painted the area white, (or any color of choice). Then he used a contrasting color, I used grey. and spattered it randomly over the base coat with a toothbrush. It gives a mottled effect which helps hide dirt. A higher sheen makes cleanup a breeze. FWIW
Good luck,
O J
I don't know if all CDs are alike. I would check out the port side first. I found two allen head type, flush machine screws below the surface.
As for painting the engine area and lazerettes, I saw what a guy did with his bilge area, I liked it and have been doing it ever since.
He painted the area white, (or any color of choice). Then he used a contrasting color, I used grey. and spattered it randomly over the base coat with a toothbrush. It gives a mottled effect which helps hide dirt. A higher sheen makes cleanup a breeze. FWIW
Good luck,
O J
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Warren Kaplan
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:44
- Location: Former owner of Sine Qua Non CD27 #166 1980 Oyster Bay Harbor, NY Member # 317
Jim,
Can't comment about the cutlass bearing as I've never done one. But I would echo Chase's comment about going with a PSS. I put one in my CD27 about 6 years ago and its never given me a problem. They're not very expensive and since the shaft will be out that's the time to do it. If you do, go with the high speed PSS even though a CD is a "low speed" boat. The high speed pumps water into the seal via a little hose that keeps everything lubricated while the low speed does it "passively".
Hey....lemme know the next time you're headed for Oyster Bay. Its been a few years since we passed each other when you were headed out for a cruise with your family.
Can't comment about the cutlass bearing as I've never done one. But I would echo Chase's comment about going with a PSS. I put one in my CD27 about 6 years ago and its never given me a problem. They're not very expensive and since the shaft will be out that's the time to do it. If you do, go with the high speed PSS even though a CD is a "low speed" boat. The high speed pumps water into the seal via a little hose that keeps everything lubricated while the low speed does it "passively".
Hey....lemme know the next time you're headed for Oyster Bay. Its been a few years since we passed each other when you were headed out for a cruise with your family.
"I desire no more delight, than to be under sail and gone tonight."
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
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Jim Kortleven
- Posts: 9
- Joined: May 20th, '05, 19:28
- Location: PuffinCD27 #100City Island, NY
John and Warren,
I like the idea about painting it mottled. Although I like the idea of white I know that it does get dirty easily down there. Also I figured if I dropped a screw which of course never happens, it would be easier to see. The decorative painting effect seems appealing.
Warren, as far as the PSS. What does that stand for? Or is that just a brand name? The packing that is in there is not the normal old fashioned packing. It was in good shape, so the PO may have installed that. I'm going to take your advise and replace it with the newer stlye; PSS as you call it. I'm curious.
The last time our bows crossed was out in your charted area. It was nice running into you. As soon as Puffin is healed, we'll be going out to OB again. We love it out there.
Jim
I like the idea about painting it mottled. Although I like the idea of white I know that it does get dirty easily down there. Also I figured if I dropped a screw which of course never happens, it would be easier to see. The decorative painting effect seems appealing.
Warren, as far as the PSS. What does that stand for? Or is that just a brand name? The packing that is in there is not the normal old fashioned packing. It was in good shape, so the PO may have installed that. I'm going to take your advise and replace it with the newer stlye; PSS as you call it. I'm curious.
The last time our bows crossed was out in your charted area. It was nice running into you. As soon as Puffin is healed, we'll be going out to OB again. We love it out there.
Jim
Set screws
On my CD30 the cutlass set screws are located approx. 3" in from the end of the stern tube,(shaft log). One each side threaded into the log.
I just did a repower and would also recommend going with a dripless shaft seal (PSS).I went with a ss shaft- use your old shaft to assist in lining up the new engine. You could use a straight dowel or broomstick for that matter. Once you get it located you can get an accurate measure of the new shaft length. You will need a keyway and a set screw dimple machined in the coupling end.
I found Star Marine Depot a good vendor for shaft seals and engine stuff.
Deep Blue for props (although somewhat slow on delivery time).
Marinefilters.com for Racor has good prices. with a repower I suggest a new fuel filter, may as well do it all ! Good luck
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MARIJUANA SEEDS
I just did a repower and would also recommend going with a dripless shaft seal (PSS).I went with a ss shaft- use your old shaft to assist in lining up the new engine. You could use a straight dowel or broomstick for that matter. Once you get it located you can get an accurate measure of the new shaft length. You will need a keyway and a set screw dimple machined in the coupling end.
I found Star Marine Depot a good vendor for shaft seals and engine stuff.
Deep Blue for props (although somewhat slow on delivery time).
Marinefilters.com for Racor has good prices. with a repower I suggest a new fuel filter, may as well do it all ! Good luck
________
MARIJUANA SEEDS
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:38, edited 1 time in total.
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Clay Stalker
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:07
- Location: 17' Town Class Sloop
YM15 and PSS
I have the YM15 in my present boat....it's a great engine, easy to maintain with everything within reach, and will give you all the power you will ever need for your boat. I was surprised how much smoother and quieter it runs than my previous 2GMFs, which were also great engines.
I also recommend the PSS shaft seal, especially if your stuffing box is hard to reach, as most are. I have had them on my last three boats and I like not having to crawl upside down into the depths of my boat to repack or slow a leak.....Personally, if I had a Spartan stuffing box, it was in good shape, and was easy to reach, I would just keep that. But otherwise, switch it while you are doing this work.
I also recommend the PSS shaft seal, especially if your stuffing box is hard to reach, as most are. I have had them on my last three boats and I like not having to crawl upside down into the depths of my boat to repack or slow a leak.....Personally, if I had a Spartan stuffing box, it was in good shape, and was easy to reach, I would just keep that. But otherwise, switch it while you are doing this work.
Clay Stalker
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
Re: CD27 Cutlass bearing replacement and Yanmar 2YM 15
I recommend Deep Blue Yacht Supply for the cutlass bearing and prop shaft. You also should plan on a new coupling. Their prices are very competitive and their turnaround on machining the shaft and coupling is very fast.
I would NOT recommend buying the shaft overlong and then cutting it to fit. You will be better off ordering the exact length you need and letting Deep Blue machine the shaft and the coupling for a perfect fit.
AFAIK Deep Blue only sells stainless shafts. I know of no good reason to stay with bronze anyway. There are two grades but the price difference is small so you'll want to get the better AQ-22.
If it will fit, I also recommend the PSS dripless seal. Unfortunately, there is simply no room for one on my CD 28.
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/
I would NOT recommend buying the shaft overlong and then cutting it to fit. You will be better off ordering the exact length you need and letting Deep Blue machine the shaft and the coupling for a perfect fit.
AFAIK Deep Blue only sells stainless shafts. I know of no good reason to stay with bronze anyway. There are two grades but the price difference is small so you'll want to get the better AQ-22.
If it will fit, I also recommend the PSS dripless seal. Unfortunately, there is simply no room for one on my CD 28.
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/