I like Garhauer's traveler and would like to order one for my CD330. I looked at my mid-boom arrangement on Mokita and determined there are two possible ways to remove the traveler bridge - one would be a bear. If there is someone who has removed the bridge before, I'd like to know how they did it.
One way would be to remove the bolts from the bridge supports by removing the headliner down below first and then getting at the hardware. This would entail removal of a few teak rails and edging on the liner.
The other way would possibly be by removing a single bolt at each end of the bridge where it is attached to the bridge support. Then the bridge would slide enough into one support to allow the other end to come free. This bolt may be threaded or have a nut on the other end, I'm not sure.
[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 17fce3.jpg[/img]
Anyone ever remove the bridge before?
Garhauer hardware
Moderator: Jim Walsh
I plan to replace my traveler with a garhauer one as well, but I dont plan to remove the bridge. I will remove the track from the bridge and install the new track on the same bridge. I will have garhauer prebend the new track for me by sending a tracing of the old tracks bend.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
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miguel mascaros
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Jan 9th, '07, 13:34
- Location: COMPINCHE 1979 CD30C Hull 119
Centerport Harbor NY
HI ED.....
Removing the bridge could be a bear of a job...I removed and replaced the port bridge pedestal by drilling the top of the base fasteners and the set screw on top and new SS screws replaced.
Once one side is out then the bridge comes off easy.
Done this work due to a crack on the pedestal and I got a new one from Spartan.
I agree no need to change the whole thing..
Removing the bridge could be a bear of a job...I removed and replaced the port bridge pedestal by drilling the top of the base fasteners and the set screw on top and new SS screws replaced.
Once one side is out then the bridge comes off easy.
Done this work due to a crack on the pedestal and I got a new one from Spartan.
I agree no need to change the whole thing..
Cheers/Mike
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bottomscraper
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:08
- Location: Previous Owner of CD36 Mahalo #163 1990
- Contact:
Removing The Bridge
On Mahalo the "piers" that hold the ends of the traveler bridge are screwed into threaded aluminum backing plates. I'm not sure if this is the same on all CD's. See image below:
Outside View:
Inside View:
They screws were not that hard to remove. The bedding compound was rather dried out so it was probably a good thing to do anyway. I tried removing the two end screws on the piers but the aluminum bridge would not slide enough to remove without removing at least one pier.
The aluminum bridge is rather thin material. The actual traveler track was attached with screws and nuts. The nuts toward the center of the tube required a very long wrench. I used a small box end wrench and a 2 ft long length of EMT (thin wall electrical tubing). I put one end of the wrench inside the tube and squeezed the tube flat to hold the wrench. That gave me a 2 ft long wrench. It was still a bit of a task getting all the nuts off but it just takes some patience and time. I used the same long wrench for installing the new track. I used some sticky lanolin to hold the new nuts and flat washers on the wrench when installing the new track.
Outside View:
Inside View:
They screws were not that hard to remove. The bedding compound was rather dried out so it was probably a good thing to do anyway. I tried removing the two end screws on the piers but the aluminum bridge would not slide enough to remove without removing at least one pier.
The aluminum bridge is rather thin material. The actual traveler track was attached with screws and nuts. The nuts toward the center of the tube required a very long wrench. I used a small box end wrench and a 2 ft long length of EMT (thin wall electrical tubing). I put one end of the wrench inside the tube and squeezed the tube flat to hold the wrench. That gave me a 2 ft long wrench. It was still a bit of a task getting all the nuts off but it just takes some patience and time. I used the same long wrench for installing the new track. I used some sticky lanolin to hold the new nuts and flat washers on the wrench when installing the new track.
Rich Abato
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Removing The Bridge
Rich,
Good idea to use a "Cheater" bar with the wrench. Sometimes I tape the wrench to the bar to keep it from sliding in and out.
To start the nut back on, I have placed the nut in the wrench and put duct tape on the bottom to keep the nut from falling out. Lanolin or other sticky goo works well to hold the washer in place. I keep flypaper in the shop. Not very often, but a few times I have opened a new roll and, using tweezers or needle nose pliers, pressed the washer to the flypaper and then put the sticky side of the washer centered on the wrench head.
You probably know about this but maybe others aren't aware of it. I have a five piece set of double ended ratchet box wrenches. The set is now on sale for $9.99. They are ideal for working in close quarters like on a traveler bridge. They come in SAE sizes. A second set with longer handles comes in SAE and Metric, slightly better quality. If you want to see them go to:
http://www.cumminstools.com
In upper right corner type Ratchet Wrench Set. Scroll down to view the three sets. Also, you might take a look at item #5820
Best regards and good luck.
O J
Good idea to use a "Cheater" bar with the wrench. Sometimes I tape the wrench to the bar to keep it from sliding in and out.
To start the nut back on, I have placed the nut in the wrench and put duct tape on the bottom to keep the nut from falling out. Lanolin or other sticky goo works well to hold the washer in place. I keep flypaper in the shop. Not very often, but a few times I have opened a new roll and, using tweezers or needle nose pliers, pressed the washer to the flypaper and then put the sticky side of the washer centered on the wrench head.
You probably know about this but maybe others aren't aware of it. I have a five piece set of double ended ratchet box wrenches. The set is now on sale for $9.99. They are ideal for working in close quarters like on a traveler bridge. They come in SAE sizes. A second set with longer handles comes in SAE and Metric, slightly better quality. If you want to see them go to:
http://www.cumminstools.com
In upper right corner type Ratchet Wrench Set. Scroll down to view the three sets. Also, you might take a look at item #5820
Best regards and good luck.
O J
Traveler installation
Thanks, guys. You are the best. I know exactly what to do now!
CD 33 Traveler
Ed
Just saw the other replies to our question and I am embarrassed!
Other members stepped forward and provided all the information we were looking for from day one.
Thank you guys!
Ken
Just saw the other replies to our question and I am embarrassed!
Other members stepped forward and provided all the information we were looking for from day one.
Thank you guys!
Ken