The Cape Dory Board

jbenagh, your picture is interesting but how do you get that down into the bilge? On our CD30 there isn't enough room between the engine area and cabin sole. Were you able to get that all down through the bilge access plate area?

Ed

OK this might one of the best looking solutions to raised teak that I have found. After you get you teak glued back down you can use my re-finish technique above to make all pretty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVVkw93faHU

Ed
San Diego

Interesting Jim, I have the same problem and thought about the same solution. I think you would need an adhesive thats is pretty thin. I'm in the medical field so I might test some mixes. I will wait to hear if anyone else has some brillent ideas. I may need to spend some time with the Oracle (Google)

As you can see we have some serious teak veneer issues around the galley. I would like to take the sliding louvered doors and trim off so I can replace with a whole new piece of teak veneer. Has anyone taking the galley woodwork trim off during remodel that can shed some like on the right way to do ...

So I have found a pretty good way to get some light water damaged teak back to health. The Watco Oil descriped here also is great for getting new plantation veneer dark enough so the match is close to the original teak. Here is the procedure. Try it yourself on a sample area first. 1) Put a layer of...

No I haven't peeled the section off but it definitely is glued on. Pretty sure it's from the PO since it is a different type of wood and grain.

And yes I also read that a few days in the sun gives teak that South Beach tan.

I will report back one I dig into this project.

Ed
San Diego.

I got a 2 foot x 8 foot section from Woodworkers Source, http://www.woodworkerssource.com

Looks like pretty good quality. Now the questions is to use contact adhesive or the Titebond III glue and iron method.

Thanks for all the great feedback. I think I will just replace the damaged section and let time do it's thing. Either way it will look better than the previous veneer that is buckled and looks like crap.

I have some damage to the teak panel on forward bulkhead on our CD-30. I ordered some paperbacked teak veneer that looks awesome but with a problem. The new teak is considerably lighter than the existing teak in the boat. Any tips from all of you folks who have done interior work. I know teak darken...

Great suggestion on the water bottle. Thanks

Thanks Guppy, nice X-Ray! We did not order it with the hi-rise exhaust, Ben Thomas up at Oregon Marine Industries didn't think we needed it. Did you align you new Beta while it was on the hard? If so did you notice any possible mus-alignment once in the water due to the hull shape being different in...

Getting ready to repower a 1980 CD30 with the Beta 16 and want to replace almost everything associated with the drive train. I have looked through all the manuals but have some questions regarding the cutless bearing and packing gland. 1) We are looking to replace the packing gland with PSS Shaft Se...

Adamhagen, can you tell me what transmission you used for your D1-20? Also did you know if the yard that did your work had to modify the stingers very much? I'm think with a different V-Drive from the Walthers that the D1-20 won't be a direct replacement. Any details you can provide would be a big h...

We have the Volvo MD7A. Yes, we are planning on replace the whole drive train, but it the labor that is driving the cost up. I'm still looking for the best re-power option. The option that requires the least amount of stringer modification which drive the labor cost up.

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of using the Volvo D1-20 engine to re-power a CD30? It looks like there are some re-power brackets that you can get. I'm wondering is this would be easier than building up the stringers and some of the other issues with the Beta 16 option? I'm not sure yo...