The Cape Dory Board

Cape Dory 28 bow pulpit for sale in the Chesapeake region.
$100, includes anchors for upper and lower lifelines.

Hi John, McMaster-Carr is nothing if not efficient and their shipping fees are reasonable for UPS residential deliver. It looks like you ordered Garolite G-11, which is also epoxy resin with fiberglass fabric reinforcement. https://www.mcmaster.com/#8710k334/=1dstzxq All the properties look very sim...

Hi Jonathon, Where did you get the G-10 rods? McMaster-Carr, https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/124/3752/=1dqszdx 1/2" diameter x 1 ft, part# 8669K17, $8.45 Great source for stainless 316 nuts & bolts, FRP/G10 and other assorted hardware. Impeccable service, super web site and fast, inexpen...

I found significant scaring after removing the forward hatch. https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/009011365494/media/73981130893/large/1531698308/enhance Couldn't bring myself to reattach the hatch using the same method. Decided to epoxy in 1/2" G10 rods and tap 1/4&...

Brion Toss, like any sane, intelligent individual always splices horizontally.

I doubt that's the difference between an anchor winch and a windlass. Neither are designed to pull or hold a 10,000 lb boat against waves, wind and current. The forces involved are an order of magnitude different from lifting the weight of the anchor and chain out of the water. The general rule is n...

Working with resin/fiberglass in direct sunlight, on the water is like having one arm tied behind your back. Very impressive.

I also need to replace a hatch lens.
I was wondering where you purchased the new polycarbonate, the dimensions and what adhesive/sealant you used?
Thanks, Jonathan

Steve wrote:If you haven't already done so, you might want to put a good chamfer on the end of the tube as well. You would hate to have your solution become a problem

Steve, I've got nothing. Would you explain this?

Thanks,
Jonathan

John, thanks for the suggestion to add a drip loop. Now I will not have to add it to my long "could've, would've, should've" list.

JD, I sure wish my boat was in the water, don't sweat the little things. Leoma is looking good!

I took a page from Fred's FeNIX Project by adding a tube down the center of the mast step for wiring. https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/009011365494/media/73921382656/large/1528583410/enhance The tube is 1" FRP, epoxied into the deck: https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/...

Trigonometry should get you close enough. The angle on a CD28 is approximately 45 degrees.
I used the main halyard to support the mast, while I checked and made some fine adjustments.

JD, check valves are prone to both plugging and jamming in the open position.
Did you try a siphon break at the top of the loop?

In my experience, untreated fiberglass does not do well in sunlight. Some of this can be attributed to the relatively thin layer of resin that coats the surface. The surface of the resin becomes discolored, brittle and eventually the cloth becomes exposed. When filling holes and cracks, very little ...

My 1976 CD28 had 1-1/2" scuppers, but the Spartan seacocks were 1-1/4" with funky plastic adapters for 1-1/2" hose. I would not take it for granted that the boats had consistent hardware over the years. I replaced the original seacocks with full bore 1-1/2". My recommendation is ...

There is rectangular ~5" x 2" mild steel in the deck to give support to the mast. I wouldn't be surprised if many boats have had some water intrusion over the years, through the wiring holes or bolts used to secure the mast step. From the posts on this board, it doesn't seem to be an area ...