The Cape Dory Board

riveredge wrote:mgphl52 and Hilbert. If you don't mind my asking, what do your shroud chainplates look like from below?

In 1976, they were using mild steel with rebar down the sides:

I'm curious if a survey had been done? This seems worthy of a paragraph or two.

I had a hell of time with the stuffing box. Probably not the same issues, but maybe my experience will be of help. The previous owner had used undersized 3/16" flax. Even after I was sure that I had removed it all, I kept finding more pieces. If you can't insert three rings of new flax, then th...

I've used a lot of composite fiberglass below deck.
When it is not exposed to sunlight, I see no reason to paint it.

That is a permanent fix, great job! The picture is blurred so it is difficult to get a feel for the total thickness. It looks like there was a lot of filling in to create a level surface below the hull/deck joint. What was the thickness of the G10 and what is new thickness from the top of the deck t...

John, I'm of an age that I also need to Google text messaging jargon, but despite my thick head I've picked up a few. I added the IMHO as a disclaimer because my comments are based on my own limited reading and experience. With that in mind: The boatyard wants to run stainless straps like yours but ...

The rods are probably a good idea since teak's natural oiliness repels most glues/epoxies. I believe that the primary function of the sealant is to keep water from running under the bowsprit and down the fasteners, but it is the function of the fasteners to attach/bond the bowsprit to the deck. In a...

John, this is where I mounted the windlass when I rebuilt the bowsprit.
The chain from the windlass now falls down a tube just inside the v-berth and sits lower than before.



Jonathan

IMHO the rig needs to be secured to the hull and not the deck. How this is done is a matter of expense, longevity, maintenance and taste (in other words just another compromise).

John, It looks like you have made great progress! You are doing everything the way that worked for me, including the long drill bit. You might try putting on some ear and eye protection and striking it in different directions with a large hammer. If nothing else, it is a great way to relieve some fr...

The core is plywood under the deck cleats on my 76 CD28 and a bent nail is no match for it. I dug it out with a Dremel 115, 5/16" high speed cutter as recommend by Maine Sail. The cutter is like a hot knife through butter on balsa, but will dull quickly on plywood. It usually sends out smoke si...

"I planned to dip the screws in epoxy before screwing them down." I suppose you never expect anyone to take this apart ever again. It is cause for much profanity when a PO uses 5200. Please don't epoxy your fasteners in place. It creates bad karma and will come back to haunt you. If you c...

John, I did not need to cut the bulkheads in order to remove the plate. All the backing plates on my boat had rebar attached to pass the load on to the topsides (sides of the boat between the waterline and the deck). The hull to deck joint is only held together by mish-mash and a few screws and bolt...

Jean, thank you for explaining how to remove this bolt and compression tube from the mast. I first tried several rounds of heat, PB Blaster and hammering. After about 30 minutes, it became obvious that this was not going to work. In the end, I followed your instructions. It was a bit of a challenge ...

Tom, I'm splicing wire rope over thimbles which require new mast tangs.
Beyond that, I would like to have more confidence than I currently do in my 40+ year stock rig.
Call me eccentric, but just don't call me late for dinner.
Jonathan